Offshore Boring Bar Mod For Boring Head

petertha

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This was more of an experimental thing, wondering if anyone has done similar? My boring head has 1/2" holes. Thus far I've been using Borite cutters. For a whopping 18$C including shipping I bought this CCMT insert boring bar off AliExpress which is quite similar to what I use on the lathe. Its the next bigger (metric) size, they don't do inches. I lopped it off (sacrilege!) & turned down the end. My 3J chuck didn't quite grip it properly due to the opposing 2 flats orientation so a 4J chuck is much better. Seemed like reasonably tough mystery material but nothing onerous.

I thought about making the turn down length such that the stock bar would flush contact the boring head underside. But aside from aesthetics, I couldn't see a good reason. If the bar ever rotated it would scratch up my shiny boring head :) But the main thing is it has a lot more meat than a stock boring bar anyway. I could give it a bit of chamfer just for looks. Which brings me to my question:

I was just about to replicate the flat on the round (turned down boss) in order to preserve the insert cutting tool angle when the boring head set screw aligns to this flat. Another plus is the material is not hardened so any set screw marks will occur on the flat vs. the buggering up the round & make removal problematic. I guess right now without a flat I have the ability to alter the angle anyway I like. But do you think there is any reason to? They seem to work pretty good in the lathe with set rake & this is essentially the same operation, just vertically no?

Showing a large radius stick-out-the-side mode. I wouldn't run it like this but this was kind of the general idea of butchering up the bars - I could make myself a graduated set of lengths for pretty reasonable cost.

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This was more of an experimental thing, wondering if anyone has done similar? My boring head has 1/2" holes. Thus far I've been using Borite cutters. For a whopping 18$C including shipping I bought this CCMT insert boring bar off AliExpress which is quite similar to what I use on the lathe. Its the next bigger (metric) size, they don't do inches. I lopped it off (sacrilege!) & turned down the end. My 3J chuck didn't quite grip it properly due to the opposing 2 flats orientation so a 4J chuck is much better. Seemed like reasonably tough mystery material but nothing onerous.

I thought about making the turn down length such that the stock bar would flush contact the boring head underside. But aside from aesthetics, I couldn't see a good reason. If the bar ever rotated it would scratch up my shiny boring head :) But the main thing is it has a lot more meat than a stock boring bar anyway. I could give it a bit of chamfer just for looks. Which brings me to my question:

I was just about to replicate the flat on the round (turned down boss) in order to preserve the insert cutting tool angle when the boring head set screw aligns to this flat. Another plus is the material is not hardened so any set screw marks will occur on the flat vs. the buggering up the round & make removal problematic. I guess right now without a flat I have the ability to alter the angle anyway I like. But do you think there is any reason to? They seem to work pretty good in the lathe with set rake & this is essentially the same operation, just vertically no?

Showing a large radius stick-out-the-side mode. I wouldn't run it like this but this was kind of the general idea of butchering up the bars - I could make myself a graduated set of lengths for pretty reasonable cost.
Nice job! I bought the boring bar pictured below from Mesa Tool. My boring head is a 2" ENCO with 1/2" holes, so went with Mesa's 1/2" x 3" length bar that uses common TPGB 21.5 inserts.

Good call on not using the large radius stick-out mode. Your tool would be running backwards scraping the work instead of cutting. You could do the same thing to another import boring bar, just get a LH boring bar. I've had good luck buying for eBay seller "zimi-hk". Takes about 6 weeks to "get the goods". They have LH boring bars in various diameter shanks, the 12 mm one would fit a little loosely in your boring head, might be better to repeat your approach with a 16 mm (~5/8") one.

Bruce


MESA Tool - $30
upload_2016-12-30_13-17-19.png

eBay seller zimi-hk - $12 including shipping (~5/8" shank)
upload_2016-12-30_13-18-30.png

zimi-hk - <$9 (~1/2" shank)
upload_2016-12-30_13-19-34.png
 
Yes I think I've seen Mesa before, thanks. Maybe even where I got the idea from. Unfortunately their inserts are different than what I use, so it was cheaper to go this route, especially if I was going to make a few custom sizes anyway.

Good call on the bass-akwards large radius pic. Ha-ha. It was just meant to demo the idea. Actually that got me wondering.. the Borite shanks are a bit longer. It doesn't really factor in the out-the-bottom mode, but laying horizontal like that, maybe I should turn them longer so it intersects the bridges of 2 holes instead of just one?

So back to your Mesa, would you say they preserved the rake angle exactly as it would be used in boring on a lathe? Looks like you have flats on the tool shank too?

12-30-2016 0000.jpg
 
... the 12 mm one would fit a little loosely in your boring head, might be better to repeat your approach with a 16 mm (~5/8") one.

Yes, that's the issue I thought about & decided to go this route. A 12mm (0.472") would be a tangential contact in a 0.500" hole. I suspect the round section of offshore shanks are nominal sizes anyway because in the lather they are typically screwed down. At least these ones are when measured. By turning the round section myself I can hit the diameter pretty close & get the desired fit. The Borites are ground surface & make that nice suction noise when removed :)
 
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