Now Here's A "diamond In The Rough" Project!

Paul,

Most of the pulleys are for the X axis feed. It's actually missing one set of belts in the photos. These machines were originally designed be powered by an overhead drive shaft that would power a whole line of machines. The No. 1/2 design dates to the 1890s. I think that I posted links to the patents.

The Ames looks interesting. It may be some sort of horizontal drilling machine. Probably a line drive machine as well, based on the large flat belt pulleys.

Cal
 
The summer sure flew by! I just returned from 3 weeks in Malawi, Africa where I lead a volunteer effort to install solar based lighting in orphan centers, and hope to get caught up making a little progress on restoring my antique 1/2 VN mill before the weather turns too cold here in NJ. I've got the base scraped down and primed. I'll top coat that today. Next I'd like to tackle the table, which has been lying on it's side on 4x4's since I dragged the thing home 8 years ago. It was easy taking it apart back then - the guy I bought it from lifted the "pieces" off with this backhoe to make transportation easier. Yesterday I moved the pieces into their "new home" from their various storage corners of my barn with an engine crane. I had long forgotten how heavy this stuff is.

Problem is that I've got no experience in this sort of thing and I'm not sure the best way to proceed. I'd like to disassemble the table for cleaning, painting, and lubrication. I was thinking it might be best to reinstall the table mechanism onto the base, and then begin the dissasembly process from there, but I don't want to do this twice! I suppose another option may be to set the table upside-down and see what I can do from there. Not even sure how this thing comes apart, or even if I should do so. And then finally aligning the bed and vertical "lift screw?" into the base using the engine crane is going to be a bit of a challenge. Perhaps rigging up a electric winch overhead would be better? These are "uncharted waters for me and I'd love to hear how others have tackled projects such as this.

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I think I would start by rolling the table flat onto the 4 bys, then pull the X lead screw out of the table. Remove the bolts from the front dovetail then pull the Y up with your engine hoist, or slide it off if you can't get the bolts out. It looks like you can do most of the lifting operations with your engine hoist. I would not use an electric hoist in this application, they don't have fine enough control. A manual chain hoist would work well.
 
+1 to Jim's suggestion of a manual chain hoist. Unless you've got access to a well made electric hoist.
Some of the winches just don't have the braking capacity to hold a 'dead' load in air.
Quite a while back I knew a guy who used a winch that was mounted on a trailer with a tripod to remove
a V8 engine. They were removing it from a wreak, and when it was up and out and they were getting ready to
push the donor our of the way the load came down. Thankfully noone was in the way.
Can't remember the make of the winch but it was 1200# and mounted on a tandem axle trailer.
(Another case where I should pay more attention or take notes...)
 
Thanks guys. I followed your advice Jim, and with a little coaxing was able to separate the table and lifting block (terminology?). Great! You're right, the engine crane is much smoother to lift and lower with, and I can roll things around as well. Not sure how I am going to install the table assembly onto the base when the time comes - - - perhaps assembling the table onto the base piece-by-piece? At my rate of completing things, that may be a while yet. I'll ask when the time comes.

I was amazed how easily the leadscrews could be removed, via simply backing out the "threaded retainer collets". Now that I have all 3 lead screws out, I'd like to clean up the handles. Restorations I've seen have handles that shine like new. What's a good way to remove rust and get the handles shiny? I was thinking an aggresive buffing wheel?

After I get things degreased and painted, what is the appropriate lubricant for the lead screws? How about the sliding surfaces? Also, I always see there is an adjustment lever on the sliding side of the dovetail mechanism. What is that for? Is there a set-up procedure for sliding dovetails? As you can see, this is a first time learning experience for me. I appreciate all the help and suggestions I can receive.

Paul
 
You photo shows three major pieces: the knee, the saddle and the table. The knee is on the bottom and moves vertically (Z axis); the saddle moves in and out (Y-axis); the table moves side to side (X-axis).

I would take everything apart, clean, inspect, lubricate and reassemble. I would reassemble the major components onto the base, starting with the knee. It will be easier to handle if you remove the elevating screw. It should come loose from the knee at the bevel gear on the top. On No. 12s, there is a set screw in the bevel gear. Remove the setscrew and you can remove the gear. Remove the Woodruff key and the elevating screw should pull out of the casting from below:
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Use Vactra No. 2 way oil to lubricate the screws and ways.

I would be very interested in lots of photo of your progress.

Cal
 
Thanks Cal . . . I appreciate your explanations and descriptions. This is new territory for me, but I've always found the best way to understand something is to get elbo deep in it. And having friends to explain things as you go. This is starting to not seem so intimidating . . .

I'll start taking more photos.

Paul
 
By the way, I used a "pickle fork" ball joint tool from Harbor Freight to get the bevel gear off of the elevating screw. It's just the right tool for the job. I used a brass drift to tap upwards on the gear first, to get enough space for the pickle fork.

Cal
 
Thanks Cal. So far disassembly has been pleasantly uneventful, thanks to receiving proper guidance from this forum. Compared to my other hobby of restoring old tractors, where most bolt removal is associated with heating with an acetylene torch and a 4 foot cheater bar, rounded nuts, and the occasional snapped faster. I was amazed how easily I was able to remove all three lead screws. What I did find strange is that the threaded "retaining collet" for each of the lead screws behind the handle wheels had what first appeared to be a setscrew, but turning it out proved to be more of a 1/8" thick threaded "cap". They certainly don't appear to be part of any "locking action". Can you tell me what that is all about?

Paul
 
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... I was amazed how easily I was able to remove all three lead screws. What I did find strange is that the threaded "retaining collet" for each of the lead screws behind the handle wheels had what first appeared to be a setscrew, but turning it out proved to be more of a 1/8" thick threaded "cap". They certainly don't appear to be part of any "locking action". Can you tell me what that is all about?

Paul
I think that if you check, you'll find a brass plug under the setscrew. The collar is there to control the movement of the screw and handle in the casting. There's a very fine thread under the collar and the brass plug lets the collar be locked in place without damaging the threads.

Cal
 
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