New PM-932 seems too low to me.

Best of luck Bob. Much more elegant solution than what I use if I need access to the back. Pick up one end at a time with an engine hoist and walk it out from the wall! Then I have the enjoyable task of re-leveling the thing again. Consequently I do a lot of squirming around in the narrow space behind when it needs service.
Show some photos when you are done if you can.
Jim
 
Best of luck Bob. Much more elegant solution than what I use if I need access to the back. Pick up one end at a time with an engine hoist and walk it out from the wall! Then I have the enjoyable task of re-leveling the thing again. Consequently I do a lot of squirming around in the narrow space behind when it needs service.
Show some photos when you are done if you can.
Jim

When I get it done I'll post some pics you might want to do something similar, save you a lot of squirming around. My back and hips won't let me do that any more, so I had to come up with a solution.
 
So I just finished building a base. As shown it raises the mill 5 1/2" and that may be all I need. If I want to go higher I can crank the feet down or add a piece of alum plate under the feet. The feet were made by milling out the top of a hockey puck and inserting a 1/2" thick alum disc. The disk is threaded to hold the 5/8" rod and a jamb nut is used to lock it together. The feet do not have to turn as they are adjusted by turning a nut under the steel legs. The threaded rod is coarse thread but it adjusts very nicely. Thanks everybody for all the ideas.

PS: I used Rustoleum Safety Blue color paint and its not bad but it is a little lighter than the mill color. Rustoleum also makes a Sail Blue color that is slightly darker and just may be a better color match but I haven't tried it.

PM-932 adjustable base..jpg PM-932 leveling feet.jpg
 
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So I just finished building a base. As shown it raises the mill 5 1/2" and that may be all I need. If I want to go higher I can crank the feet down or add a piece of alum plate under the feet. The feet were made by milling out the top of a hockey puck and inserting a 1/2" thick alum disc. The disk is threaded to hold the 5/8" rod and a jamb nut is used to lock it together. The feet do not have to turn as they are adjusted by turning a nut under the steel legs. The threaded rod is coarse thread but it adjusts very nicely. Thanks everybody for all the ideas.

PS: I used Rustoleum Safety Blue color paint and its not bad but it is a little lighter than the mill color. Rustoleum also makes a Sail Blue color that is slightly darker and just may be a better color match but I haven't tried it.

View attachment 226476 View attachment 226477

G'day, That blue in the photo looks pretty close, once it's got a bit of age on it I don't think it will matter.

I made a base similar to that for my lathe, but it doesn't extend out beyond the lathe base enough to fit screws, so I'm going to have to weld some extension pieces to it. Down on my hands and knees for that job. So that I can fit screws to jack it up with, I don't need much height just want to level it, and stop it from rocking. the floor under the base isn't quite flat. Also Hockey pucks are a bit like hens teeth here in down under, so I'll just have to use a piece of hard industrial rubber. I'll post some pics when the job is done. Got a few other things to do first.
 
simalar problems myself, machines to low.......made/welded heavy duty 4x2 metal frames with adjustable feet for all the machines......

I have a fettling bench (go on ask what that is),

lets see if anyone reads my thread.....

(must learn how to post photo's)

Hi @Clogs
I read your post!
I'd really like to see some photos of your machine bases.

....and oh yeah, what's a fettling bench?

-brino
 
Hi @Clogs
I read your post!
I'd really like to see some photos of your machine bases.

....and oh yeah, what's a fettling bench?

-brino
I'm not sure what a fettling bench is, but I believe a fettler is someone who works on maintaining railway tracks
 
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