New Pm 1030v Lathe

And this is what makes THIS forum such a great place...

Folks jump in and help!!!

IMO one is not gonna get a perfect machine...
Even a Mercedes or a Lexus or a Bimmer is gonna go into the shop a few times when new...
And lets not get started on how ridiculous maintenance is on those money pits.

To be able to do the repairs on ones machines... and have all this free help, along with customer service from the supplier...

Sounds like a Win-Win to me!

Side note: I have been a MOD at a few other forums...
This one is by far the friendliest and most helpful place... :)
 
I was able to swap the gears and get a thread turned yesterday. I am communicating with Matt to get that all worked out. I didn't take a picture of the final thread and I will be re-doing this part because the concentricity wasn't good enough for me.

Its coming along, I might need to file the gears a bit to get the bushings to fit well but there is plenty of time for that. I played with the gears and bushings and found that most of the gears I use (I mostly just need the turning gears and gears for 24 TPI threading) can fit well with at least one of the bushings. Maybe I need to mark the bushings to match the gears so I know which ones will fit where.

Once I get this thing figured out, I will make the rest of the suppressor. I attached a model if anyone is interested in seeing that.

Brake with start of thread.
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Model.
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Model.
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I appreciate the input from everyone here. I tried everything proposed and I think removing a burr (That may or may not have been there...) helped.
 
Glad it's working out for you. I think you have a nice machine by the the finish on that part.
 
Glad it's working out for you. I think you have a nice machine by the the finish on that part.
I was very pleased with the finish. That was at about 800 rpm with the finest feed it has and an indexable carbide tool. Thats 303 stainless. When I was rough cutting, it took plunge cuts very well and did a great job removing material quickly.
 
I think you are headed in the right direction now. I had to do some polishing of the gear bores to get them to fit on the couplers a bit easier. I also had to do a small bit of polishing to the square headed shafts to get them to spin better inside of the couplers. One of my first projects was to machine an extra square headed shaft and recessed washer as well as a couple of extra keyed spacers. I am close by you. I work over in Apex and actually cover the whole state for my job. If you still have any questions, hit me up. I pm'd you my phone number. I'm always glad to help. I have a good friend in the Smithfield area that also has a PM 1127VF-LB lathe and PM -727 mill just like me. We are both always willing to help.

Regarding the suppressor, that looks to be essentially a k-baffle design. From what I have read, those are pretty effective relative to how difficult they are to make. I have read about some guys making monocore type suppressors and they appear to be a difficult project.
 
I think you are headed in the right direction now. I had to do some polishing of the gear bores to get them to fit on the couplers a bit easier. I also had to do a small bit of polishing to the square headed shafts to get them to spin better inside of the couplers. One of my first projects was to machine an extra square headed shaft and recessed washer as well as a couple of extra keyed spacers. I am close by you. I work over in Apex and actually cover the whole state for my job. If you still have any questions, hit me up. I pm'd you my phone number. I'm always glad to help. I have a good friend in the Smithfield area that also has a PM 1127VF-LB lathe and PM -727 mill just like me. We are both always willing to help.

Regarding the suppressor, that looks to be essentially a k-baffle design. From what I have read, those are pretty effective relative to how difficult they are to make. I have read about some guys making monocore type suppressors and they appear to be a difficult project.
Matt has sent me a few extra parts to try. I will probably have to polish everything up and fit some of the gears to the couplers. They are just incredibly tight at the moment.

The supressor just has simple 60 degree cone baffles. I made one with stepped baffles already and the guys over at silencertalk said that 60 degree cones are the lightest and strongest baffle shape and they are supposed to suppress subsonic 300 blk really well. The stepped baffles only start to shine at the high pressures.
 
Matt has sent me a few extra parts to try. I will probably have to polish everything up and fit some of the gears to the couplers. They are just incredibly tight at the moment.

The supressor just has simple 60 degree cone baffles. I made one with stepped baffles already and the guys over at silencertalk said that 60 degree cones are the lightest and strongest baffle shape and they are supposed to suppress subsonic 300 blk really well. The stepped baffles only start to shine at the high pressures.
Just curious on how the baffles are made?
 
Just curious on how the baffles are made?
Im not sure how I will do it on this machine. Likely I will take a piece of 1.375" SS rod, turn it to fit inside the tube, then drill out the bore undersized, use a boring bar with the compound set a 30 degrees (or 60 depending on how you like to reference your angles) to bore out the inside, then use a cut off tool to slot it at the end of the baffle, use a turning tool at 60 degrees again and shape the outside, then hopefully drill the bore to the full size and it should pop right off and only need a little clean up.
 
I sold the HF lathe and this Wednesday (7/27) I ordered the 1030v with QCTP.

If anyone has any ideas for getting the lathe up onto the bench without an engine hoist, I would be happy to listen. .
Think about everyone you know who is a mechanic , welder , fabricator or has some sort of shop . Someone probably has one they'd loan you. My buddy who owns the local scrap yard loaned me his , just had to trailer it over . Get good straps and it goes pretty easy. Look around for a loaner engine hoist ....or you could buy one at Harbor Freight ...use it once , then sell it assembled in like new cond for a little less than you paid . Having a mill has caused me to now want a lathe ...I was looking at that 1030 , Nice machine , congrats !
 
Update and a few things I have learned that most of you probably know but if someone gets the machine later and is looking for info, they might see this.

First off, I spoke with Matt and he sent me some new parts for the change gears. He sent 2 of the couplers, 4 or 5 of the square headed bolts, 5 clips, and the brass oiling inserts. I spent an hour or two with the change gears, the bolts, and the clips to get everything fitting better. I spun some sandpaper in a hand drill and sanded out the insides of the gears until the couplers fit snug, but not so tight they had to be tapped into place and not so loose the couplers would just fall out. I also polished the square headed bolts up to 1000 grit sand paper so they would turn as resistance free as possible inside the couplers. Last a filed down the backs of 2 of the clips so they wouldn't catch and start tightening down. Now changing gears is pretty seamless. It takes me about 5 minutes from turning the part to diameter to taking the first threading pass.

Still having an issue with the leaking gear box but we are trouble shooting and that will be resolved at some point.

A few things for new people/people considering the 1030V:

Changing the chucks is beyond easy. There are 3 nuts on screws attached to the back of the chuck faceplate. To change the chuck, you loosen those 3 nuts, rotate the plate behind the spindle face, and pull the chuck through. I didn't realize thats what the rotating plate was for, the first few times I took the bolts off all the way. Don't do that, use that rotating plate.

To change the gears, a few things to note:

-There is a circuit breaker (or something...) on the rear upper left corner of the change gear cover to make sure the machine doesn't run without the cover on. When you take the cover off, it will feel like there might be a hinge back there. Its not a hinge, pull straight out away from the machine.
-The couplers are made of a pretty weak cast metal. No idea what it is, but if you force it into the change gear, it will deform and jam up the nut that it has to rotate on.
-The change gear chart will tell you which gears need to be attached to each other and which order they should go. The bottom most one goes directly onto the lead screw, then the two above it go on the quadrant with the last one interacting with the spindle gear. On the chart, the gears next to each other go on the same coupler. If there is an H there, put one of the spacers on instead of a gear.
-When you tighten the quadrant back up, make sure the gears are spaced apart from each other so they don't rub on each other and grind.

A few things PMs site doesn't mention but are worth noting:
-Those little brass circles you see all over the machine are oilers. Put a shot of oil in each one and it will lubricate the machine while you use it.
-The handle you use to move the apron has graduated markings on it. That makes stuff much easier and that wasn't there on my HF lathe.
-The tailstock uses a lever to lock it in place. I thought I would be using a wrench to lock and unlock it but that lever is fantastic.
-The lathe has plenty of power to cut threads at its lowest speed setting which is 54 rpm on my machine. Its so slow I find myself speeding it up to get to the next number on the thread dial, but then I have forever to stop the thread at the end (for reference, the 24 tpi thread for .5" I cut yesterday took a little over 12 seconds to traverse the entire thing.) This makes threading way less nerve wracking because you can see everything thats happening and have lots of time to react at the end of the thread.

I have a few more pictures for anyone interested. The finish on one of the parts was so great I wanted to leave it how it was and not use it. But alas I have to use it, can't make multiples with suppressor parts. I also marred up the outsides getting them apart. Heres to hoping that buffs out. As a side note, the 3 jaw is very accurate. More than accurate enough for the stuff I am working on. Chucking 1.5" steel rod in the 3 jaw it was .004" out. After facing off, drilling, boring, threading, and tapering, then machining the brake and threading the mount onto the brake, the mount was turning .003" off center. This is fine because the parts that need perfect concentricity (The threads, the thread shoulder, the face of the mount, and the rear taper) were machined in set ups that ensured perfect concentricity (or as close as I can measure with a .001" DI)

Suppressor mount
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Muzzle brake and mount threading
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Fit of the two parts
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