Needle or Ball thrust bearings??

[kd4gij]

Yes I used to rebuild high speed spindles. Used alot of angular contact bearings. A bit over kill for a cross slide though. The ones I used wher $80 to $200 each.anic:

 

[Bill Gruby]

This one was $112.00. Yes it is overkill for a cross slide. I bought two of these in case one failed again.

"Billy G"

 

[Mister Ed]

A typical ball bearing has an inner race on the ID and an outer race on the OD. Your dial would be dragging on both of them. For a ball bearing to work in a thrust application it would have to be one designed for thrust like the one KD4 posted.

I'm not trying to be a jerk, but please read what I originally posted in the original post:

"should I be using ball thrust bearings"?

They are configured just like a typical roller (needle) thrust bearing with the race on top and bottom ... not on the ID & OD.

A needle is thin whereas a ball bearing is thicker and may leave you with a lead screw that's too short.

And my follow up post:

In this location, I have plenty of depth room for the ball bearings.

For your info .437 for thrust ball vs .261 for needle bearing with one thin and one thick washer. The thick washer is not needed, but give me room to get the needle bearings tucked in a recess to help avoid contaminants.

 

[kd4gij]

I am shure the needle bearing will give you years of trouble free service. That is what I would use.

 

[JimDawson]

Thanks guys. I am quite familliar with needle thrust bearings ... not so much with thrust ball bearings. I have these protected from swarf etc the best I can, however they are not in a sealed environment. But that is what gor me thinking. Are ball thrust bearings less impacted by swarf/crud.? These will be in a difficult to oil area (hmm ... maybe I can work in a small oiler and passage). In this location, I have plenty of depth room for the ball bearings.

Unless I hear other opinions, I will continue with the needle bearings, and see if I can't squeeze in an oil passage.

I used a needle thrust bearing in a similar application, to protect it from crud I assemble it with an O-ring around it which effectively sealed it. I had enough room around the OD to do this, but you may not. As far as ball thrust vs needle thrust, in this application, either will work fine. The ball thrust bearing will handle much higher rotational speed than the needle bearing, I don't think this is a factor in this application. Crud will effect both about the same amount.

 

[Vladymere]

Mr. Ed,

I realy have no idea of which would be beter. I know that a lot of South Bend users change the spindle thrust bearing from a fiber disk to a needle bearing. The thrust bearing in my Cincinnati Tray-Top lathe tail stock drive screw is a ball style thrust bearing as are the two thrust bearings on the right end of the lead screw.

Vlad

 

[Cheeseking]

You'll be good w needle bearings. At practically zero rpm I dont think you'll ever wear either type out in a home shop setting even if some grunge works its way in. If you feel it get crunchy just pop off the handwheel and clean it up good as new. The o ring is a good idea if you have the right size. The only other thing might be if you have too freewheeling could cutting forces possibly back drive the slide off position??? Probably not since the acme nut does the holding but just thinking out loud.

 

[CluelessNewB]

I have no advice on the choice of thrust bearings but please keep us informed on your project, hopefully with pictures!

 

[Bill Gruby]

I 100% agree with using the needle bearings over the standard thrust bearing. They will last forever if kept clean and will take any load the lathe will put on them.

"Billy G"

 

[Mister Ed]

I'm sure either will do fine and I should probably just let the thread die. Neither of these will ever wear out, and certainly both types can handle the (lack of) RPM and minimal force. And the cost for either is minimal. For those that are confused as to a ball thrust bearing (and I was surprised there are some that were) ... here are snip-its from McMaster.



I do have the dial drawn up for a Logan 200. 3" zero-able dial, original cross feed screw, obviously bearings to smooth things out, and no loss in cross feed usable distance. This may require a new cross feed bushing. It is a cross between what I know of a Stelling dial, Bob Neidorff's '09 article in Home Shop Machinist, and my own tweaks.