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[Newbie] Need help wiring 220v motor to Asian Lathe

Discussion in 'ELECTRICAL ISSUES - POWER YOUR MACHINES & SHOP' started by Steve4024, Feb 19, 2017.

  1. Steve4024

    Steve4024 Canada Iron Registered Member

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    Hello All;
    This is the first time I have ever entered to any type of online forum, so please excuse me if I don't get this right the first try.
    I have had this Tida lathe, TD-1236E (12x36) built in 1994 for awhile now.
    When I first got it, I didn't have 220v available, so I wired for 110V.
    It seemed a little under powered, and would not reverse.
    I have since run 220v to it and wired it as the motor plate describes for "High Volt".
    Still seems a little under power, but not too bad, I'm used to much larger machines so I can get used to taking light cuts.

    My big issue now is trying to figure out how to wire the motor so I can spin in reverse using the lathes lever.
    This motor is not original, it is a dual voltage 1.5hp farm motor.
    Will it even do what I want?
    Does anyone know what the original motor would have been?
    I've tried a few different arrangements, trying to figure it out, and when I got a short and popped breaker, I thought I better stop before anything (or myself) get damaged
    Nothing did thankfully.
    Description of how it is now wired and what I have tried with pictures are on the attached word doc.
    (I hope it opens)
    Thanks in advance
    Steve
     

    Attached Files:

  2. jim18655

    jim18655 United States Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    First thing is you'll need 5 wires from the switch to the motor. 2 wires will be power and 2 wires will reconnect the red and black to change direction. The 5th wire will be the ground. We'll also need the diagram for the reversing switch.
     
  3. Steve4024

    Steve4024 Canada Iron Registered Member

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    Thanks for the quick reply
    Will I need to add wires in the control box?
    I don't have a manual, been looking but no luck so far
    The switch is a rotary type, it has 4 wires going to the control box, and one jumper wire
    When the switch is operated, lever moved up (fwd) and down (rev) the contactor/relay for each operate as they should

    I have taken pictures and labeled where the come from and go
    I hope it is clear to understand
    Steve
     

    Attached Files:

  4. MrDan

    MrDan United States H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Steve,

    From what I can see, the reversing switch just pulls in either of two contactors (the one on the left, and the one in the middle) for forward and reverse. True?

    It also appears the motor needs one more wire than the original motor. Many times the motor is reversed by swapping the start winding (red and black in your case) between the two line connections, and this means you need 4 wires plus ground. But your motor, when wired for 220v, swaps the red and black between one line connection and the orange/white wires (tied together). this means you will have to have 5 wires (plus the safety ground wire) between the motor and the controls.

    It looks like the right-hand contact (terminals 3 and 4) in the two contactors are not used. I have worked out a control scheme that will work with your motor, but it needs to use these contacts, and they must be normally open (make/continuity when the contactor is energized). If this is the case, then the following wiring will work.

    Note that I don't show the intermediate terminals in the bottom of the cabinet, although the wiring will pass through them as before.

    Pay careful attention to the wiring between contactors. On top the connections are like-for like (S to S, T to T, etc.) but not the bottom connections!

    Hope this makes sense!

    StarterWiring.jpg
     
  5. fixit

    fixit United States Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    If he changes from 110 to 220 voltage, does he need to change the coils in the contactors ??
     
  6. jim18655

    jim18655 United States Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Good catch. Looks like a transformer in the bottom right that will need to be connected for 220v to supply the control voltage. I thought there was only a drum switch and not the contactors.
     
  7. MrDan

    MrDan United States H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    I see a control transformer in there, so presumably the contactors are low voltage. Most likely would have to re-link the transformer primary for the correct voltage.
     
  8. MrDan

    MrDan United States H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Great minds think alike, heh heh....
     
  9. Steve4024

    Steve4024 Canada Iron Registered Member

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    Hi All;
    Contactor coils are 24v, transformer input has been switched over to 240v

    MrDan, thanks for the schematic
    I just checked…..those contactor positions are open, and normally open

    On your schematic, the thermo relay(?) is not there (the thing with the white amp dial)
    Is it eliminated in your scenario?

    When I opened my first attachment with my iPad, the picture was under the text
    I don't know if this happened to anyone else, but I think I fixed it and it is attached below

    Steve
     

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  10. MrDan

    MrDan United States H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Steve,

    You can (and probably should) still include the overloads in the wiring. It would go as it does now, between the contactors and the motor leads. It should interrupt the yellow, purple, and either red or black wires, pick one (assuming it is 3-pole).
     
  11. MrDan

    MrDan United States H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Oh, including the overloads will only work if the running current of the new motor falls well within the amp setting of the dial. If the new motor is a lot bigger and draws more current than the old one you may have to leave it out. In that case I suggest inserting properly sized fuses in its place.
     
  12. MrDan

    MrDan United States H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    One last tidbit. There is usually an auxiliary contact on the overloads that is wired inline with the control power. The idea is that if the overload trips the aux contact opens and kills control power, dropping out the contactors. In your picture it's a little hard to see, but it looks like one of the wires has been moved over and the two wires are connected together under the same screw, effectively bypassing this feature. Just a heads up.

    Overloads.jpg
     
  13. Steve4024

    Steve4024 Canada Iron Registered Member

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    MrDan
    I will not include the red (rev) into the overload, since it is used much less.....sound OK?
    On the above picture, there is a contact directly behind the front, current passes thru, it works as expected (tested by pulling trip rod above dial)
    The dial has from 18-26 amps, the motor only draws 7.2a on high volt according to plate, so I set it minimum
    Seems this motor draws less than original

    I will post results after I try
    Steve
     
  14. MrDan

    MrDan United States H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Sounds good!
     
  15. MrDan

    MrDan United States H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    And to be accurate, both the red and black are used during both forward and reverse, just with connections swapped. But interrupting either one would be fine.
     
  16. Steve4024

    Steve4024 Canada Iron Registered Member

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    MrDan, your a genius

    I got tied up so that is why it took a little while to get back to it, and to post results

    It works perfectly, Thank You
    I'm so happy

    Thanks again
    Steve
     
  17. markba633csi

    markba633csi United States Active Member Active Member

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    Now you have a waltzing Ma-Ti-da! :big grin: har har
    Mark S.
     
  18. MrDan

    MrDan United States H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Excellent Steve! Glad it's working, and glad I could contribute a little something.
     
  19. Allan

    Allan Canada Active User Active Member

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    Hi, Steve, I'm in Kleefeld with a Tida as well. I haven't had time on the site recently so I missed your post when it came out. I had some problems wiring mine as well. After spending some money on electricians who couldn't figure it out I finally got it done myself.
    It would be nice to chat with another metalhead in the areaAl.
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2017

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