My Workman (G0602), my way

fitterman1, I love your solution for the TS quill spinning. I have the same lathe (KING 1022ML) and the spinning TS quill drove me crazy. I never found a solution I liked until your post. If you don't mind, I will copy your fix and upgrade my TS quill too. I don't use this lathe much since getting its bigger brother but that TS fix is simple and a very good solution.

I've never seen anyone go through as much detail as you to improve these lathes. The work you have done is excellent and by the time you're done you will have produced a precision machine from a "sow's ear" as Hman said. Very impressive.
 
Hi fellas, as you know in this day and age many things are built to the dollar rather than a standard. The G0602 is of the former and the decision to acquire it was mine, quite well knowing that it would need work to spruce up.
I didn't want a larger machine because I have two at work sitting idle most days and so always available.

@ ch2co yes, ball oilers are a pain, I distinctly remember the old ones used to be made out of pressed steel. I prefer to use threaded plugs, it takes longer to lube and there's minimum chance of gunk getting in. All my ball oilers will be changed over as time goes on, hence the above post on how I went about it. If you want to stick with them I suggest you make a small jig with a through hole which will hold the oiler with a light pushfit. And also fabricate a punch to as close a sliding fit as possible but with a concave end and use this to lightly peen the end closed a bit further to retain the spring. As long as oil can get through bob's your uncle.

@ HBilly1022, please feel free to use my method of preventing quill spin, or anyone else for that matter. You will notice an increase in smooth operation. I don't know if anyone else has come up with this solution before but it took me two goes to get it right. I hope others can make use of my experiences and use them as a base standard for their machines regardless of model. All it takes is time, desire and some nous.
I wouldn't say I'm going into that much detail its my modus operandi. I'll keep adding to this as time goes on, its like finding a new hobby.

cheers
 
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Looks nice Fitterman, I'm surprised your braking resistor needed so much heatsink but I guess you determined it was necessary.
Keep chipping! Gday!
Mark S.
 
Hi Mark, that chunk of heatsink was the offcut of the one attached to the kbmm in my control box. It probably was overkill, but I used it anyway. I even thought about fitting a fan to it but decided convection cooling was enough.
I usually over engineer when I design something, it really depends on the resources at hand. Thanks for the comments, hope you enjoy it and can use some ideas.
cheers Alby
 
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Hi Alby; my problem has been underkill in the past, but I've gotten better now :)
Working in industry for 25 years does that to you.
Ciao,
Mark S.
 
This just shows you the variability of these lathes. My compound has about .060" clearance between the gib and the sidewalls. In comparison yours has an immense gap!
And it looks like you are using a hand hacksaw to cut your gib? Dedication. Very well done, again.

CHuck the grumpy old guy
 
Hi Chuck you're correct on variability, although I fear we'll see more of it in the future. I can safely assume the machinist tasked with making these dovetails has no concept of tolerances or quality control.
Or he pranged his cutter into the work and had to cover it up by going that wide, anything to save his job.
I made the key 155mm(6 1/8") long, 9.3mm (0.366") high and 7.35mm (0.289") thick, quite a hefty key for a compound. It fills the space fully, I can only get a 0.0015" feeler in the end gap and am now considering using one of the adjusting screws as a compound lock by changing it over to a knobbed version. It doesn't take much to lock up the compound now.
Cheers
 
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Stuffed around with the lathe today. Wanted to fit a 20mm threading bar to a toolholding block for my qctp. The toolholder has a 3/4" bore and comes with an adaptor for fitting a 16mm or 5/8" bar. You know what they look like. The bar is a Posithread insert holder for screwcutting and is known as a 2020-16 and holds NR16 size inserts. A fairly rigid tool that I like and use a lot. I ended up having to bore out the toolholder on the lathe and finish reamed the bore.
IMG_20170311_151450.jpg

Also toyed around with the concept of a new nut for the compound. I had an idea a while ago of replacing the original spindle nut for an adjustable one, because I have around 005" backlash at the moment. Its manageable because all lathes have some backlash, I just want to minimize it to near zero, so I measured the old one and decided to go bigger in diameter whilst maintaining the height. The reason I went larger in diameter is because I needed space for the adjusting screws and lineup pins.
Here's what I came up with.
IMG_20170311_151356.jpg IMG_20170311_151346.jpg

Made out of brass with two locating pins pressed into the bottom half, the top has an oil hole which can be filled via a lubing port in the upper slide and also two screws for adjustment. This will require me to fit two more ports on the upper compound slide to access the adjusting screws from above.
As the nut is now 22mm in diameter the existing hole will be bored out to a precision fit (or reamed to match). The edge of the existing hole is too close to the end of the lower slide so a decision was made to offset the hole closer to the toolpost end sufficiently to engulf the original. The idea behind it is to have the two parts move towards each other as enforced by the pins and adjusting screws. This way I'm hoping any wear in the thread of the nut continues to form new thread and maintain its profile. Only one way to find out. If the brass wears too fast it may be a good idea to fabricate a new one out of Acetal (Delrin). There's no way I could have made it with one adjusting screw because the fit in the bore would not allow one side being squeezed tight, it would lockup the assembly.
I'm waiting for countersunk screws to be delivered, the black screw in the pictures won't be used as I need to keep the profile flat.

Here's an update to the nut mentioned above. I counterbored the holes for the pins in the upper nut half. Sufficiently deep to add some springs, for preloading the adjusting screws. The adjusting screws are of different diameters and also pitches.
One is m4 x0.7, the other m3 x0.5, both are countersunk to maintain a low profile. I did this to have a finer adjustment on one more so than the other.
Here's some closer shots.
Compound nuts.jpg Compound nut lower.jpg Compound nut upper.jpg Compound nut assy.jpg
I still haven't implemented this into my compound as yet, I don't have a milling machine at home.
I've got to do it at work, on the mill there, so hopefully soon. Will keep you posted.
 
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I am new here and try to read and understand all I can absorb. I am amazed is about all I can say. I look forward to more of your post.
Jeff
 
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