My PM-1236 Precision arrived today

I thought UPS was bringing me a drill chuck for the tailstock today but it looks like it won't be hear until tomorrow. I'll be at COTA for the Formula 1 race weekend. Probably won't get back to this until Monday.
 
Thanks Mike, I'll take a look at it. I picked up a 1/4" plate this afternoon for under the head to level it up.
 
Aukai said:
That is why I'm stocking the garage now, before retirement. Plus I can claim an addiction....
I work 10 days a month for my wife's pay check, part time is mine. Social security wants money back if you go out before 66. I owe, I owe, so of to work I go.
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I've talked to a few people who say the numbers still are good if you go out b4. They say it takes 10 years to make up the difference. That's a good amount of time. I'm going to keep working because I don't have a pension, many who stop working die early, I'd probably be one of them knowing my luck. Even though this shop will be my retirement fun.
 
mikey said:
Jeff, I just checked the PM1236 manual and found that there are no leveling adjusters between the cabinet and the lathe. Therefore, all leveling must be done with levelers under the cabinet or shims between the lathe and cabinet. Trust me; you do not want to mess with shims. Know that the cabinet is going to move for a week or more once you level it so you will need to re-check it periodically.

The way this works is that you bolt the lathe solidly to the cabinet and then use levelers on the cabinet to bring the lathe into level. The lathe and cabinet need not be level with the World; level as used here simply means there is no twist in the bed. In effect, you are using the cabinet levelers to twist the bed into alignment. So, you need cabinet levelers.

One product to look at are Royal Machine Mounts - supposed to be very good and not outrageously expensive. Another option are leveling casters that allow you to level the lathe accurately, then move it at need. This is the option I prefer and have found that the Carrymaster brand is amongst the best of the breed.

Your Starrett 98 has a sensitivity of 0.42mm/m, which is not that sensitive. A precision machinist level is typically around 0.02mm/m = 0.0002"/10". Such a level will move a whole unit before the Starrett 98 bubble even begins to move. An argument can be made for less sensitivity but a precision level saves time by getting you very close, very fast (God willing). I would use what you have for now but keep an eye out for a good level. You will use it more often than you think because lathes move and need re-leveling periodically.

So, to answer your question directly, no, the cabinet does not need to be level with the World. It only has to remove any twist in your lathe bed. The leveling process is not difficult but it can be time consuming, depending on how lucky you are. Sometimes I can move my lathe and then re-level it in less than 2 minutes; sometimes it can take an hour or more, depending on God's sense of humor on that day. There are tons of info on lathe leveling - take your pick.

Keep in mind that you need to level the lathe with your level, then do a 2-collar test to fine-tune it. Then you need to check your headstock alignment with the ways, then check your tailstock alignment with the spindle. All of this can take some time but do your homework and ask for advice and the guys will steer you right. If you are confused at any time, PM me.
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I answered my own question as I thought that the base of the stand had to be touching the shop floor, but after a little googling on the site I found my own answer.
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Johnny, I am not clear on what you're asking here. Can you elaborate a bit for us?
 
The shipper was probably to busy fooling with some electronic gizmo instead of being careful what they were doing,
Do the lathes come with touch up paint ?, ied want some or all of the shipping cost back :mad: that ain’t right who shipped it
hope it works out for ya.
 
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