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My New Grizzly G0678 Knee Mill

Discussion in 'GRIZZLY INDUSTRIAL INC.' started by DoogieB, Nov 15, 2015.

  1. Silverbullet

    Silverbullet Active Member Active Member

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    Nice job, always great to make your machine work better then it's made to do. My wife would kill me but I'd sure like to buy a mill just like yours . Hope you take care of it and it will work well for many years. Are thinking of making a riser block like the bridgeports do? I watch lots of YouTube , double boost from England made one on his raised his I think 5 1/2" . He's up to about the size of a regular mill I think. God I hate being disabled and living below the poverty level. Some times I just hate living. Any way I love your upgrades , I'm trying to make my own for my HF drill mill. got some wiper and door window motors in 12 volt. Have fun and be careful play safe.
     
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  2. DoogieB

    DoogieB Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Yeah, I was watching Doubleboost videos before I even bought my SB lathe. Great stuff! I've learned a lot from that "mechanic pissing about".

    The G0678 mill basically has a riser block from the factory with it's tall column. I believe Doubleboost's mill plus a riser is a bit taller, but not much. If you need more Z space than this mill can offer, you really should start looking at a "pocket Bridgeport" like Coolidge has shown to get the heavier frame and more features.

    There's no doubt about it that this ain't a cheap hobby. The mill and it's vise and are about the only major new things I've bought for the shop.
     
  3. BGHansen

    BGHansen United States H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    I made a riser block for my (similar) Jet JVM-830 mill from a 6" long length of (I think) an 8" round. It gives me about 18" max distance from the spindle to the table. Very nice when using a dividing head vertically with a drill chuck in the spindle. You can see the riser between the drill chuck and lamp.

    Bruce


    mill.jpg
     
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  4. tomh

    tomh Active Member Active Member

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    doogie
    WARNING
    Be very careful when you have the table lowered and moving to the left, the power feed will hit the green splash shield. Also when you have the table moved to the left when lowering the table the bottom of the power feed will hit the splash shield also. After doing this twice and nearly damaging the gear on the bottom of the power feed I removed the green shield.
     
  5. DoogieB

    DoogieB Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Yeah, Jet sold many of these type of mills, probably more than Grizzly back in the day. The maximum spindle-to-table height of the G0678 is 20 inches which is similar to your Jet mill with a riser. Even with my small-sized projects, the extra table height comes in handy when you starting using big drill chucks or dividing heads.

    Yup, you are exactly right. I haven't had the table low enough that it's going to hit the splash shield yet, but it's been close. Since it really doesn't serve any practical purpose for me I think I'll remove it this weekend.
     
  6. Tom Tompkins

    Tom Tompkins United States H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    After a 1000 miles, six months of CL look see disappointments, last week I drove up to Grizzly Billingham, WA and had a G0678 follow me back home. Four pieces of black pipe, two hours of messing with a come alone (up hill driveway) I was finally able to roll this little gem off a u-haul trailer and into my garage. Now the fun and question start. I am new to this forum and will be asking for help.
    So far I really like the quality of the mill but had to ask Grizzly Tech for help regarding the gibs misalignment.

    IMG_2389.JPG
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2016
  7. wrmiller

    wrmiller Chief Tinkerer H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Nice Mill Tom. :)

    Other than maybe being a bit loose, what was wrong with your gibs? You need to start your own setup thread with lots of pics. We love pics. :D
     
  8. Tom Tompkins

    Tom Tompkins United States H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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  9. Tom Tompkins

    Tom Tompkins United States H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Seemed that the gibs never where seated. IMG_2368.JPG IMG_2367.JPG
     
  10. Tom Tompkins

    Tom Tompkins United States H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Looks like I better learn how to use this forum and rotate photos.
     
  11. Silverbullet

    Silverbullet Active Member Active Member

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    Livin large man livin large ,yupp in my opinion this mill is about the most perfect size for the small shop. if you could get it with a 40" table it would be absolutely perfect. On the alibaba dealer site I recieved some offers on some mills the prices were cheap but the shipping arrangements I never got to in my looking. One of the companies there offered longer tables on the smaller mills at a very minimum charge. I almost bought one but our financeses took a giant hit this year so no go. but someday I'll have the mill of my dreams to . So I'm glad you have the perfect mill ,now make some chips but take good care of her and she will last dang near forever. Good luck it's great ,remember saftey first but have fun.
     
  12. Ironken

    Ironken United States Active Member Active Member

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    I have a G0695 with a messed up way wiper just like yours. Total noob question here.....what would I be looking for to verify that my gibs are seated?
     
  13. tmarks11

    tmarks11 Active User Active Member

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    Looking at the pictures, I am not really sure why you are concluding that. Does the table wiggle when you pull it back an forth?
     
  14. DoogieB

    DoogieB Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    It's kinda hard to tell from your pictures, but if all that was wrong with your mill was loose gibs than you got a good one. Adjusting the gibs, along with tramming the head to the table, is one of those final adjustments the owner is expected to do.

    The gibs exist to take-up the slack in the dovetails. If they are too tight, you wear the dovetails excessively. If they are too loose, the table flops around in the breeze. This is something you need to take some time with and get right, but the good news is that after they are adjusted that setting should be good for a long time. Assuming, of course, you use the oiler regularly.

    The general approach that is mentioned in the manual is to tighten the gibs with the adjustment screws until you feel some resistance and then lock them in place. This is usually fine, but my mill had plenty of sticky Chinese cosmoline built-up around gibs and dovetails which was making the adjustment process tedious. I had to pull the gibs and clean them on the workbench with solvent. The dovetails were cleaned as best a I could with solvent, Vactra from the oil pump and moving the table back and forth to loosen-up the gunk as I didn't want to pull the table off. In the end, it might have been easier to just pull the table anyway but I got it in decent shape in-place.

    When adjusting the gibs, as an aid I used a dial indicator to help measure the slop in the dovetail. Basically, you lock-up the other gibs and pull and push the table to see how much play is in the gib/dovetail you are adjusting. I dug back into my camera's memory card and found some old pictures I took of the setup I used back then.

    gibs_1.jpg

    gibs_2.jpg

    gibs_3.jpg

    You can see I moved the table to one edge for more leverage. And yes, it would have gone easier if I had pulled the vise, but I am a lazy bastard at heart.

    The gibs were adjusted with the indicator until there was under .001 of slop and then the final gib setting was done by feeling the amount drag at the wheels. The indicator doesn't supply an absolute measurement, it's only tells the difference between one gib setting to another. If the wheel feels tight and you still see slop on the indicator, you have a problem. Plan on moving the table, saddle and knee to both extents and back again quite a few times. Take your time and do it right as you will be living with these settings for awhile.

    Tramming the head to the table is basically the same as any other vertical mill and doesn't need explaining. You can and almost certainly will need to adjust the "nod" of the head and you do that by shimming between the head and column. It's a touchy process and you will need a brass shim pack from some place like Enco as you might need the .0015 increment. I actually had to come back to this at a later date because after I bought a 2" face mill I found I was getting ridges when making multiple passes cleaning-up a AL plate. After changing the shim(s) from .0025 to .002 it went away. You can see where I shimmed in this picture (red arrow). Later on I trimmed-off the excess.

    gibs_4.jpg

    And as a bonus here's a picture of checking the tram with the old Starrett 196.

    gibs_5.jpg

    The needle barely moves on this .001 indicator when swung around and that's what was needed with the face mill. The 196 isn't the most precise indicator, but the big button on the back sure makes it handy for this job. The long rod from the collet is to to keep the table at the typical Z position. The quill, saddle and knee were locked.
     

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    Last edited: Jul 21, 2016
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  15. scwhite

    scwhite United States Active Member Active Member

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    I think you made a good choice
    That mill will do anything you want to do
     
  16. Ironken

    Ironken United States Active Member Active Member

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    I know this is a waaaay old thread but, I ordered this graduated dial from Grizz. Power feed was a direct bolt on deal with the dial along with the dial being graduated correctly for the leadscrew pitch. The part number is in the video description. Also, I scrapped the chip pan.

     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2017
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  17. Jbar

    Jbar United States H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    How do you like this DRO?
     

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