My New 1340GT

You are welcome...

My 935 weighed in close to 1800#~ in a 48x48x72 tall crate... was a mess to get into the basement.

I may take the top off the lathe box outside and remove some of the weight... accessories and extra's from the crate. Will need to get it into the basement through a 36" walk through door, and over an aluminum threshold. Thinking to probably use two furniture carts (the rectangle frames with 4 heavy castors). That way, I can 'walk it' along and over the threshold...
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.


John,

the he guys that move safes use large aluminum plates and just roll right over the threshold. I am not sure if you could rent them or not. I just had a very large safe moved for a customer up one flight of stairs and through two doors. They used a hand truck with little hooks on a chain with an a
electric motor. The hooks caught on the stair tred and lifted the hand truck up. Very slick set up. I asked the guy where he got it and he said he made it.
 
I have a one ton engine hoist... setting the lathe is not the issue.

The issue is getting the approx 24" x 24" x 72" crate through the 36" wide walk through door... without destroying the aluminum threshold.

Heavy 3/4" plywood ramp, maybe 2 layers. Cut up some wood 2" round dowels to go under it. Still do not thing it is going to work, mine was on a pallet which was partially destroyed. You might pull it from the shipping crate and make some mini dollies to role it on, kind of what they put under car wheels.. My 1 ton engine hoist didn't really have enough reach to get the lathe from the headstock end.
 
Wow...thanks Mark. More stuff to buy! :rofl:

Seriously, thanks. I really like that little tool box. :thinking:

As for the lathe, it will likely sit about 2-2.5' from the wall or I may come perpendicular from the wall and out onto the floor. I may make a mockup out of cardboard to see how this will all work. How long is your lathe?
 
John,

the he guys that move safes use large aluminum plates and just roll right over the threshold. I am not sure if you could rent them or not. I just had a very large safe moved for a customer up one flight of stairs and through two doors. They used a hand truck with little hooks on a chain with an a
electric motor. The hooks caught on the stair tred and lifted the hand truck up. Very slick set up. I asked the guy where he got it and he said he made it.

Heavy 3/4" plywood ramp, maybe 2 layers. Cut up some wood 2" round dowels to go under it. Still do not thing it is going to work, mine was on a pallet which was partially destroyed. You might pull it from the shipping crate and make some mini dollies to role it on, kind of what they put under car wheels.. My 1 ton engine hoist didn't really have enough reach to get the lathe from the headstock end.

THX, this is close to what I had in mind... make two gradual ramps to go up 1.5", and then back down 1.5". Then use a couple of furniture dollies (rectangle with 4 castors). I have two that are used to move piano's, they are rated at 1000# each.
The other thing I will need is 'A few good men'... :)
 
Well all sounds good. Lathe drip pan is ~18x70" plus some room to remove the pulley cover. Two feet behind the lathe should be fine to access a VFD/control box. I also ended up buying a 5/8" Jergens 2 Ton Hoist Ring and a long 5/8" bolt that mounts between two plates for further lifting (this is also in the manual). Even though the lathe is "relatively" lite weight, it was awkward to move. Luckily I had my wife "supervising" when lifting it and setting it on the cabinets (be sure to put some sealant around the drip pan bolt holes before setting the lathe down). Sorry Bill, the hobby is a money pit. I have probably spent at least twice what I thought I would spend, and I still have a few more big ticket items. Now a bigger mill would be really nice.
 
Any news on the arrival of your machines?

I updated a possible wiring diagram for the PM1340GT conversion to VFD which includes 2 braking algorithms. It requires the VFD input 4 programmed for 2 step deceleration. Under normal use it defaults to 2 step braking, something like 4+1 seconds unless power to input 4 is interrupted. I use 1 second single step braking with a braking resistor, as I prefer not to have the lathe spinning for 5+ seconds when stopping. In reality it takes 2 seconds to stop at the slower speeds depending on the chuck mass. You can also add a manual switch to choose between the two different braking options.

Updated Schematic, Added Green Ground wire to negative terminal of the relay (stupid me).

PM1340GT lathe VFD Schematic rev 2.jpg
View attachment PM1340GT lathe VFD Schematic rev 2.pdf

PM1340GT lathe VFD Schematic rev 2.jpg
 
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Matt told me Monday that I should have a tracking number "soon". :dunno: :lmao:

I'm sure the guys are working hard on getting these prepped and out the door. But patience isn't my strong suit. :whistle:

I probably should start ordering some parts like the relay, relay socket, enclosure, etc. And I'll print out this new schematic and look it over. Thanks Mark.

Edit: Actually I said I was going to wait until I received the lathe before I started ordering parts... *sigh* :rofl:
 
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Hey Mark,

Where does the braking resistor tie in on this schematic? Is it a 50 ohm/500w or a 100 ohm/500w? Thanks.
 
Hi Bill,

Braking resistor for this model varies on application so anything between 50-100 ohms should work fine, and a resistor dissipation between 200-500W should work because the duty cycle is so short. It mostly keeps the VFD from tripping and going into an error message mode. The encapsulated ones with leads work well, just screw them to the VFD terminals and mount the resistor to a metal surface.
Some specs: http://www.hitachi-america.us/suppo...port/Selection Chart_Jan 2013_ROC revised.pdf

This is what I used on a recent build for someone else ($20 - 300W 70 Ohms): http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solder-Lug-...654?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51c6041a6e

It is not in the schematic, the schematic is only the control circuit. Download this file, it gives the specifics on other connections: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87276&d=1415299403
 
But patience isn't my strong suit. :whistle:

I probably should start ordering some parts like the relay, relay socket, enclosure, etc. And I'll print out this new schematic and look it over.

I'm the same way, and since I have at least another 2 months till my mill to arrives, I've been ordering all kinds of tooling to keep my self from going crazy.
 
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