My Lathe Is Level

[ddickey]

I finally got my lathe in it's final resting space and it won't be long now before I can try it out. Anyway I thought I'd put a level on the ways and the reading by the headstock is the same as at the tailstock. I have an iGaging eLevel, I'm assuming it's fairly accurate. Is my thought correct in the fact that it doesn't really matter if the lathe sits level or not, as long as the ways have no twist?

 

[woodchucker]

I used to think the same, but you want it level, so you can use it as a datum. There are times you will need to know what your angle is, and will only be able to reference the angle from level for example.
Do you absolutely need it level. No, but it does help, and is worth the effort.

 

[omni_dilletante]

You are correct that the lathe does not need to be level so long as each end of the lathe is the same amount off level.

But I think your iGaging eLevel is not quite what people use to level a lathe.

On the level I have, when the bubble moves one line off center, one end of the level is 0.001" higher than the other. This is probably much more sensitive than the iGaging eLevel.

 

[Tozguy]

I finally got my lathe in it's final resting space and it won't be long now before I can try it out. Anyway I thought I'd put a level on the ways and the reading by the headstock is the same as at the tailstock. I have an iGaging eLevel, I'm assuming it's fairly accurate. Is my thought correct in the fact that it doesn't really matter if the lathe sits level or not, as long as the ways have no twist?

Correct.

Once you have used your level to best advantage, it will get you close enough. Only subsequent turning tests will show if there is twist in the ways.

 

[ddickey]

I checked and the level is accurate to .2 degrees. Since the level is 9 inches that would equate to .031" accurate? If I calculated that correctly it is probably not very precise.

 

[omni_dilletante]

I find that this group tends to go a bit overboard. If my lathe did not come with the level I have, I am not sure I would have done more leveling than you have done.

Do some test cuts. If you get the accuracy you are looking for, then you are fine.

If not, then you can try to tweak the level to see if that fixes the problem.

Or here is a link to someone that used a plumb bob to level their lathe. And here is another one.

 

[Splat]

Getting it as level as you can, ie: no twist in the bed, should help get you close to where you need to be. Then turn a piece between centers and measure both ends and see how far off you are.

 

[Wreck™Wreck]

Tilt it towards the head stock a bit to keep the coolant flowing in the right direction. which is toward the drain.

I run a CNC lathe that is quite level, the coolant runs down the ways in both directions, when working at the tail stock end it tends to leave a good deal on the floor.

Years ago I had a Clausing 13 X 48 manual lathe, had to bend the coolant/chip tray towards the head in order for it to drain. Recently I run a Warner & Swasey #5 turret lathe for drilling 3"+ holes in rounds when needed, this machine is often not used for months at a time and the coolant gets nasty and also puddles behind the turret for days.

 

[Tozguy]

Getting it as level as you can, ie: no twist in the bed, should help get you close to where you need to be. Then turn a piece between centers and measure both ends and see how far off you are.

The test piece for checking twist in the ways is not held between centers. The test piece is held in the chuck only

 

[Splat]

The test piece for checking twist in the ways is not held between centers. The test piece is held in the chuck only

That is the first cutting test that should be done. That checks the headstock alignment to the ways. Then the cut between centers should be done. Within reason, it doesn't matter how level from left to right the bed is. What matters is removing as much twist (front way to back way) as you can from the bed.