1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.
  2. PLEASE: Read the FORUM RULES BEFORE registering!

    Dismiss Notice

My first lathe - don't laugh

Discussion in 'A BEGINNER'S FORUM (Learn How To Machine Here!)' started by jaredbeck, Aug 20, 2017.

  1. core-oil

    core-oil United Kingdom Active User Active Member

    Likes Received:
    112
    Trophy Points:
    43
    City:
    Motherwell

    -Return to Top-

    Jaredbeck,

    Great that you have got yourself a little lathe, It is a beginning, and when you manage to get her set up you can pick up on experience as you move on, It may only be a small simple lathe, but many a man has achieved excellent outcomes on such a machine, Remember these little lathes were constructed in the days before folks were tearing off metal using "Throw away tool tips " and creating blue chips , at a supersonic speed, For a home craftsman , What the hell is the point, Is one on bonus at home? I think most of my contemporaries nowadays , are high speed merchants and believe using high speed (stellite ) tool steel is mostly for the Dinosaurs, I believe learning to sharpen your own tools & learning the basics is a good beginning , You will no doubt go on to a bigger and more complex machine as you develop .
    you will look back in a few years time , & think how you got on with that simple little machine, Do not be in a hurry to send it packing as you modernise, Keep it for the little simple tasks , Especially when your hopefully bigger and more modern machine has work set in the chuck you do not want to disturb, Have fun that is the name of the game.
     
    jaredbeck likes this.
  2. itsme_Bernie

    itsme_Bernie United States Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    73
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    NNJ
    City:
    NNJ
    State:
    New Jersey

    -Return to Top-

    Hey Jared

    Welcome to the forum, and congrats on getting started! I started on a similar machine about 20 years ago, and haven't looked back. I kept it until about five years ago, still loved it!


    I had an Atlas 618 (similar machine, slightly heavier). Awesome starter, and lots of people never want to get rid of them, they're really great little machines. Nice high rpm as well.

    Lots of parts available online, but you willl usually pay a bit of a premium as there are a lot of them around, And they are easy to move so people aren't afraid of them.

    Motor switch will be great, you might eventually want to go with a switch in front of the machine so you have easier access to switch off the machine

    Do you have the jack shaft set up? Is it entirely separate set of Palese with a little lever arm on a cast iron stand that reduces the speed by a factor of 8 or so.

    Good luck and keep letting us know what you're up to! Don't be afraid to ask a lot of questions if you want to. Everyone here had to ask somebody at some point in their past.


    Bernie


    .
    Bernie
     
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2017
    jaredbeck likes this.
  3. jaredbeck

    jaredbeck United States Iron Registered Member

    Likes Received:
    36
    Trophy Points:
    13
    City:
    Lansing
    State:
    New York

    -Return to Top-

    Thanks Bob, I did exactly what you said, soaked it overnight in penetrating oil, and it came off with only hand-strength. There are also holes in the faceplate for a two-pin spanner wrench, but I don't own one.

    Thanks Mark, grabbing the belt like that worked well.

    Thanks for the upgrade tip, Bill. I'm pretty sure mine has plain bearings, not sure what the material is.

    Yes, it looks like the spindle is 1/2"-24 outside. Inside it may be MT0, I'm not sure.

    sears_lathe_3.jpg

    Thanks, I've watched a few videos on grinding HSS (the one by This Old Tony was great) and I have some 1/4" blanks on order from Grizzly. After watching videos for at least a year, I'm having a blast putting what I've learned to work finally!

    Oh neat, no I haven't got that part. I hope I can get it running reasonably slow without it. The motor is 1725 RPM and the slowest ratio between the two cone pulleys is 2" input / 3.25" output, which would be about 1060 RPM? I'm not at all certain about that math.

    sears_lathe_4.jpg
     
    itsme_Bernie likes this.
  4. Bob Korves

    Bob Korves H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    3,801
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    USA
    City:
    Sacramento
    State:
    California

    -Return to Top-

    Your math is good. Unbelievably, I can still do that in my head...
     
    jaredbeck likes this.
  5. Bob Korves

    Bob Korves H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    3,801
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    USA
    City:
    Sacramento
    State:
    California

    -Return to Top-

    For aluminum or brass, which would be about 400 surface feet per minute (SFPM), 1 1/4 to 1 1/2" would be about the maximum diameter you might try at that speed to get started. With steel at 100 SFPM, about 1/2" would be a useful work diameter. Start even slower than that, or should I say smaller diameter until you get a feel for it. These numbers are for high speed steel (HSS) tools, which I recommend you use with that lathe. A jack shaft to lower the speed would give you a lot more options for work diameter and speed.
     
    jaredbeck likes this.
  6. silence dogood

    silence dogood United States Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    170
    Trophy Points:
    43
    City:
    pendleton
    State:
    Oregon

    -Return to Top-

    Hey guys, remember your first car that you owned. Mine was a 61 Ford Falcon station wagon, three speed on the column. Always had to fiddle with her, but she always got me home. I guess for many of us the first lathe is like that.
     
    jaredbeck, francist and brino like this.
  7. benmychree

    benmychree United States John York H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    474
    Trophy Points:
    83
    City:
    Saint Helena
    State:
    California

    -Return to Top-

    Stellite and HSS are completely different formulations; Stellite is a alloy of cobalt and chromium only, there are other formulations, but that is what Stellite is, as opposed to HSS which may contain small additions of either element, it is as it's name indicates, is mostly steel. Stellite is pretty much only for cutting cast iron, where HSS will cut most anything within certain hardness limits.
     
    jaredbeck likes this.
  8. jaredbeck

    jaredbeck United States Iron Registered Member

    Likes Received:
    36
    Trophy Points:
    13
    City:
    Lansing
    State:
    New York

    -Return to Top-

    Thanks Bob. I'll stick with those sizes, and take light cuts.

    Mine was a 1990 corolla and I drove it into the ground because I didn't know how to take care of machines then and I was broke. :D But, yes, despite that it's still a good memory.

    Interesting, I hadn't heard of Stellite before. I guess there are a lot of alloys out there. What's a good place to learn about them? I'll check my machinery's handbook. I need to learn the numbering system for steel.
     
  9. Bob Korves

    Bob Korves H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    3,801
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    USA
    City:
    Sacramento
    State:
    California

    -Return to Top-

    The Stellite company made tool blanks in decades past. I have some, different models. I did some research on them and looked at what they were used for some years ago. I cannot remember the details, but most of them had incredibly high cobalt and chrome content (I have some that are more than 50% cobalt), which would give them really excellent hot hardness, but would also make them stupidly expensive. Mine are probably worth more as scrap as for anything else, and I really would not want to breathe the dust while grinding them...
    The first good link I just found confirms that: http://www.chemistrylearner.com/stellite.html
    http://www.conradhoffman.com/stellite.htm
     
  10. benmychree

    benmychree United States John York H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    474
    Trophy Points:
    83
    City:
    Saint Helena
    State:
    California

    -Return to Top-

    The Stellite tools that I have and have seen were blanks brazed onto high carbon steel shanks, like carbide, but the usable blank was much longer than a typical carbide tool, and could be sharpened back very much further.
    It seems to me that it was invented and made by the Haynes Company, I think the same company as made the Haynes automobile.
     
  11. benmychree

    benmychree United States John York H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    474
    Trophy Points:
    83
    City:
    Saint Helena
    State:
    California

    -Return to Top-

    Just came to mind that Stellite can be applied to steel by oxy acetylene welding or TIG and used as a wear surface; I have a quantity of Stellite cast rod for the purpose.
     
  12. Bob Korves

    Bob Korves H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    3,801
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    USA
    City:
    Sacramento
    State:
    California

    -Return to Top-

    We seem to be hijacking Jared's thread here, so I started a new thread here:
    https://hobby-machinist.com/threads/stellite-and-other-special-unusual-tool-bits.61674/
     
    RandyM and brino like this.
  13. Ken from ontario

    Ken from ontario Canada Active Member Active Member

    Likes Received:
    285
    Trophy Points:
    63
    City:
    Peterborough
    State:
    Ontario

    -Return to Top-

    I'm a bit confused ,is the SFPM for Aluminum 250 or 400? thank s for helping a confused rookie.
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2017
  14. Bob Korves

    Bob Korves H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    3,801
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    USA
    City:
    Sacramento
    State:
    California

    -Return to Top-

    I use 400 SFPM on aluminum if I am confident with what I am doing. Otherwise I start slower and see how it goes...
     
  15. Ken from ontario

    Ken from ontario Canada Active Member Active Member

    Likes Received:
    285
    Trophy Points:
    63
    City:
    Peterborough
    State:
    Ontario

    -Return to Top-

    Thanks Bob, For milling aluminum I calculate RPM using 250 x 4 divided by the diameter of the end mill, if I use 400 SFPM with a .500" end mill, the RPM will be beyond what my little mini mill can handle, that's why I asked thinking all this time I was way too slow . thanks for the clarification.
     
  16. Bob Korves

    Bob Korves H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    3,801
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    USA
    City:
    Sacramento
    State:
    California

    -Return to Top-

    I use that same basic formula, Ken.
     
    Ken from ontario likes this.
  17. jaredbeck

    jaredbeck United States Iron Registered Member

    Likes Received:
    36
    Trophy Points:
    13
    City:
    Lansing
    State:
    New York

    -Return to Top-

    First chips! And, my first time operating a lathe :)

    first_chips.jpg

    Check out my questionable lathe dog. :D Apparently I don't know how to center a hole in round stock on my drill press. Well, it worked, and I'm taking 0.020" cuts. I'm getting a real lathe dog and some new HSS blanks in the mail tomorrow. Then I need to find a chuck .. with the oddball 1/2"-24 spindle, that might be tricky.
     
    silverhawk, brino, Bob Korves and 4 others like this.
  18. jaredbeck

    jaredbeck United States Iron Registered Member

    Likes Received:
    36
    Trophy Points:
    13
    City:
    Lansing
    State:
    New York

    -Return to Top-

    Oh, and I forgot to mention, the tool bit has an engraving on it, "Rex AA" which I'm guessing stands for Ann Arbor, where the lathe was made, right? Or am I letting my imagination get away with me? :)

    fullsizeoutput_33a.jpeg
     
    richl likes this.
  19. Tozguy

    Tozguy Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    797
    Trophy Points:
    113
    City:
    Drummondville
    State:
    Province du Quebec

    -Return to Top-

    Congrats on your first turning, now you are off and running. BTW that dog is fine. The only criteria for dogs is that they work. Looks don't count so you can even use hose clamps and such.

    And you have a sense of humour :)
     
  20. Bob Korves

    Bob Korves H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    3,801
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    USA
    City:
    Sacramento
    State:
    California

    -Return to Top-

    Probably a reach at your stage of machining, but this is an option:
    http://www.deansphotographica.com/machining/projects/109/spindle/adapter.html
    Here are some adapters (and ideas):
    https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_od..._trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=1/2-24+chuck&_sacat=0
     
    jaredbeck likes this.
  21. Bob Korves

    Bob Korves H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    3,801
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    USA
    City:
    Sacramento
    State:
    California

    -Return to Top-

    Rex AA is made of T-1 steel, a tungsten based high speed tool steel, similar in qualities to our common today M2 high speed steel, which uses molybdenum instead to create the carbides. These days, molybdenum is cheaper for that use than tungsten. Rex AA bits are very good high speed steel tools for general work.
    http://www.diehlsteel.com/products/high-speed-steel/t-1
     
    jaredbeck likes this.
  22. Bob Korves

    Bob Korves H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    3,801
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    USA
    City:
    Sacramento
    State:
    California

    -Return to Top-

    Your lathe dog is just fine. It looks like it will do the job well and that is all that matters.
     
  23. dlane

    dlane Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    790
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Lake oroville
    City:
    Oroville
    State:
    California

    -Return to Top-

    Looks as if you have a wood drive center in the spindle, you may want to get a dead center of the rite taper, also the dog looks backwards are you cutting with the spindle turning cw and tool upside down when looking from tailstock ?. Normally the spindle would turn ccw with cutting pressure pushing down on tool.
     
    jaredbeck likes this.
  24. jaredbeck

    jaredbeck United States Iron Registered Member

    Likes Received:
    36
    Trophy Points:
    13
    City:
    Lansing
    State:
    New York

    -Return to Top-

    Awesome, thanks Bob! I'm going to get one of those 1/2"-24 adapter backplates.

    Oh, haha I thought there was a guy named Rex and in my imagination he lived in Ann Arbor and worked at the factory that made the lathe :)

    Quite right, will do!

    I think it's just a badly posed picture. Either that or the motor's backwards :D
     
  25. Bob Korves

    Bob Korves H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    3,801
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    USA
    City:
    Sacramento
    State:
    California

    -Return to Top-

    Rex tools were made by Crucible Industries, and are still in business, big time:
    http://www.crucible.com/products.aspx
    Rex AA has not been made for decades AFAIK.
    Edit: You might enjoy the "history" link at the Crucible site. Even covers AA steel...
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2017
    Tozguy likes this.
  26. owl

    owl United States Active Member Active Member

    Likes Received:
    44
    Trophy Points:
    18
    City:
    Missoula
    State:
    Montana

    -Return to Top-

    That lathe should teach you well the various intricacies of turning, just scaled up and somewhat automated on larger equipment. Assuming good alignment, bearings, etc, you should be able to make parts within its capacity to just about any accuracy you would care to do, just takes practice. I'm afraid that free is out of the question, see the threads on accessories, and desired metrology. Also, lathe bits, etc. can add up. Mystery metal is reasonably cheap, but you may want to buy material that turns more reliably too. OTOH, it may well be a cheaper hobby than golf.
     
    jaredbeck likes this.
  27. Silverbullet

    Silverbullet Active Member Active Member

    Likes Received:
    864
    Trophy Points:
    113
    City:
    Marlton
    State:
    New Jersey

    -Return to Top-

    Ok hi and welcome , your on your way now. You may need to look at wood lathe chucks for that spindle size. Or get one close say a 1" -10 and make an adapter right on your lathe to the 1"-10 threads then you can loctite it in the chuck.
     
  28. dlane

    dlane Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    790
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Lake oroville
    City:
    Oroville
    State:
    California

    -Return to Top-

    Sorry but if you were cutting as the pic shows the rotation is cw, the face plate bolt would be on top of the dog bolt if turning ccw , "but the wood drive center may be engaged into stock enough to grip it"
    Ccw is the normal direction for cutting, forces pushing down on tool and carriage.
     
    brino likes this.
  29. dulltool17

    dulltool17 United States Active User Active Member

    Likes Received:
    127
    Trophy Points:
    43
    City:
    Weaverville
    State:
    North Carolina

    -Return to Top-

    Like Dlane wrote above, it looks like a wood lathe center in your headstock- I'd take a good look at that and maybe get a new center.

    Also, be sure to grease the tailstock dead center.

    Go make some stuff!
     
  30. Tozguy

    Tozguy Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

    Likes Received:
    797
    Trophy Points:
    113
    City:
    Drummondville
    State:
    Province du Quebec

    -Return to Top-

    It looks to me like the shaft got cut CCW based on the position of the tool. But the dog is free to move into the position shown in the picture when the lathe is stopped. To prevent the dog from swinging away from the stop normally one would tie them together somehow.
    Here is an example using rubber bands.
    IMG_0262.JPG
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2017

Share This Page