Monarch EE worth the price??????

I think so. As stated earlier, I have no experience with the 10EE, but my general impression is if your men cannot make the required part on one, you need different men or a machine other than a lathe. A different lathe would be of no value.

Now I think you can tell us if the Monarch EE is worth the price. I also think your answer is going to be "Yes".

Bill
 
OrangeAlpine said:
I think so. As stated earlier, I have no experience with the 10EE, but my general impression is if your men cannot make the required part on one, you need different men or a machine other than a lathe. A different lathe would be of no value.

Now I think you can tell us if the Monarch EE is worth the price. I also think your answer is going to be "Yes".

Bill
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I've been working on the seller, trying to get a break on the price or some tooling to sweeten the deal. I'll let y'all know how it comes out next week.

Thanks for all the replies!
 
twraska said:
We repair tractors, farm and heavy equipment so it may be as simple as cutting some threads on a 1-2" shaft or building up and turning down such shaft to within 020". Or,,,,, it may be making some engine, transmission or other part that is no longer available & needs real tight tolerances. Or cutting a worn shaft down and making an undersize bushing to fit it.

Again, I'm not the best machinist that will use the machine. I have some friends that will do some work for me, they just don't have a machine of their own. I want to get enough machine to do the job. I've asked them but each prefers the machine he has at work and some are on very nice (can we say expensive) machines!

From what I've gathered, the EE or Hardinge are very high quality machines and capable of very tight tolerances. I also gathered that the EE can thread almost any pitch that is out there? Either would be capable of producing almost any part, no matter the tolerances (with the proper machinist of course), that will fit in the machine? Are these fair statements?
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Based on what you've said, I wouldn't think that a 10EE would be a very good choice as your only lathe. They are designed for relatively small, high accuracy parts. Not all 10EEs can cut metric threads without changing the end gears. The "Inch/Metric" models can cut both inch and metric threads, but many older models can't.

Cal
 
I have a 1976 EE metric/english great machine i still use my Monarch model 61 more ! I think 10,000 is to much for no tooling and you definitly need to run it thru high and low speed ranges If you get one a little newer with Metric / english Cap.
 
I would suggest looking around a little more, I bought a pristine 10EE in southern Indiana 3 years ago for $5,000 and he was happy he got it sold. Machine shops are still dieing in this country.
 
Before you buy a Monarch EE for a home machine shop, you had better know what you are getting into. They are very heavy machines, around 3500 pounds so you need to be sure you can move one. They are also very powerful machines with motors anywhere from 5HP to 10HP and all sort of voltages, so you need to be sure you can power one. They are also extremely complicated machines, so if something breaks, you'll need to sure you can fix it not to mention afford the parts.

If you are willing to spend 10K, the Hardinge HLV-H would be a much better choice. They weigh around a ton so are easier to move, most have a 1HP motor (WAY under rated) so they are easy to power and parts are readily available, although still pricey. There is also a lot more tooling available for the HLV-H on the used market. I bought mine new in the 80's and I wouldn't consider owning anything different. Once you've cut a thread on an HLV-H, you'll know why.

Tom

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Nice HLVH,Tom!! I wish mine was a newer model like yours is. Mine's a 1964. They are marvelously engineered to be extremely versatile,yet simple to operate. I liken mine to driving a sports car. I don't know if the 10EE would have the light touch on operating the apron's X travel because it has a huge,heavy apron compared to the HLVH. But,it has a much larger hand wheel,too.
 
Thanks George, I have a lot of hours on that lathe.

I've used both and everything about the EE is much heavier than the HLV-H, which is both good and bad. In my opinion, the Hardinge is a much easier to use and more versatile machine for the home shop than the Monarch.

Tom
 
Hello I'm Cecil. New here as of today. I live in East Tennessee.
I found out yesterday that I have been gifted a 1953 Monarch 10EE which I will pick up tomorrow and try to wedge into my small shop. The Monarch is a base model.. which means that it did not come with thread cutting or taper attachment. It has the original 3 jaw chuck, a bison 4 jaw, the original collet nose (no drawbar or closer), and a phase II Aloris wedge type size C block with 4 tool holders. Although there is no leadscrew and no gearing to support threading there is a feed rod and the apron and crossfeed auto feeds work fine.I have operated the machine and there seem to be no issues as to operability.
I have an ancient 15 inch Cisco that I use for heavy threading and a 9 inch jet that I have converted to CNC. With the Jet I can cut any thread pitch from 10 tpi up to several hundred tpi with no restrictions on the pitch. This has allowed me to reproduce strange one-off threads from 19th century guns. So the lack of threading on the Monarch is not a deal-killer, especially since it was a gift.
I assumed that the nose piece was for 2J collets but upon closer examination the opening at the front of the nose is 1.686 inches with no taper and the back-bearing diameter where the key come in is 1.431 inches. I was thinking of making a handwheel drawbar and trying to find some collets to fit but I cant imagine how the closer would work without the normal taper at the mouth.
I'm now thinking I might make an adapter that would fit into the nosepies where the original collet went and machining the inside of it for a 5C collet. I already have a 60 piece 5C set and a 5C drawbar that I could adapt to the Monarch.
I will probably get yelled at for blasphemy but I am already thinking about how to put servos on the Monarch in such a way that it will be completely restoreable to original configuration if desired.
I can't imagine a much better combination than a 10EE with unlimited threading and taper capability, but that's way down the road.


Thanks for letting me aboard.
 
purplepicker said:
Hello I'm Cecil. New here as of today. I live in East Tennessee.
I found out yesterday that I have been gifted a 1953 Monarch 10EE which I will pick up tomorrow and try to wedge into my small shop. The Monarch is a base model.. which means that it did not come with thread cutting or taper attachment. It has the original 3 jaw chuck, a bison 4 jaw, the original collet nose (no drawbar or closer), and a phase II Aloris wedge type size C block with 4 tool holders. Although there is no leadscrew and no gearing to support threading there is a feed rod and the apron and crossfeed auto feeds work fine.I have operated the machine and there seem to be no issues as to operability.
I have an ancient 15 inch Cisco that I use for heavy threading and a 9 inch jet that I have converted to CNC. With the Jet I can cut any thread pitch from 10 tpi up to several hundred tpi with no restrictions on the pitch. This has allowed me to reproduce strange one-off threads from 19th century guns. So the lack of threading on the Monarch is not a deal-killer, especially since it was a gift.
I assumed that the nose piece was for 2J collets but upon closer examination the opening at the front of the nose is 1.686 inches with no taper and the back-bearing diameter where the key come in is 1.431 inches. I was thinking of making a handwheel drawbar and trying to find some collets to fit but I cant imagine how the closer would work without the normal taper at the mouth.
I'm now thinking I might make an adapter that would fit into the nosepies where the original collet went and machining the inside of it for a 5C collet. I already have a 60 piece 5C set and a 5C drawbar that I could adapt to the Monarch.
I will probably get yelled at for blasphemy but I am already thinking about how to put servos on the Monarch in such a way that it will be completely restoreable to original configuration if desired.
I can't imagine a much better combination than a 10EE with unlimited threading and taper capability, but that's way down the road.


Thanks for letting me aboard.
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Hi Cecil,

Welcome aboard!

It sounds like you have a manufacturing model 10EE, mostly used as second operation lathes instead of as tool room lathes. Some were equipped with turret attachments.

I'm not sure what sort of spindle nose you have. A 5C spindle nose was a common accessory for a 10EE, but that doesn't sound like what you have. If possible, please post some photos.

You can get a D1-3 5C collet chuck and back plate from http://www.cdcotools.com/ for about $180 (plus shipping). I haven't seen one, but I've had good reports on them. I'm planning on buying one at some point.

In the future, it's best to start a new thread for something like this. If someone were searching for information on a lathe like yours they would have trouble finding it buried in a thread like this.

Cal
 
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