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Monarch 10ee round dial Repair

Discussion in 'MONARCH MACHINE TOOL CO.' started by vettebob, Aug 28, 2013.

  1. vettebob

    vettebob United States Active User Active Member

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    Thanks for the compliment. I spent 2 weeks prepping for paint. Monarch uses a mechanical tach. Bob
     
  2. Cal Haines

    Cal Haines Active Member Active Member

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    Bob,

    Looks great! Is that a metal flake paint?

    Cal
     
  3. vettebob

    vettebob United States Active User Active Member

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    Yes It's metallic graphite grey. Bob
     
  4. Chuck K

    Chuck K United States Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Wow!! That's going to be one pretty machine! You're going to shame me into to painting mine...lol.

    Chuck
     
  5. toag

    toag United States Active User Active Member

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    nice work vettebob!
    is that brushed on or sprayed?
     
  6. vettebob

    vettebob United States Active User Active Member

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    It is automotive single stage urethane paint sprayed on with a hvlp paint gun. Bob
     
  7. vettebob

    vettebob United States Active User Active Member

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    003.JPG 001.JPG side at 12 inches.JPG top at 12 inches.JPG top at headstock.JPG I haven't posted anything for a while here's my progress. I installed removed and scraped the bottom of the headstock 20 times. My final results are .00027 down and .0001 towards the operator at 12". Taking test bar sag of .00017 into account that puts the headstock within .0002 over 12". Bob

    003.JPG top at 12 inches.JPG top at headstock.JPG 001.JPG side at 12 inches.JPG
     
  8. vettebob

    vettebob United States Active User Active Member

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    I ground the tailstock base and installed bronze shim stock. The base was worn .026 with most of the wear at the front. 001.JPG
    Rebuilt the worm gear. The internal key was worn by over .060 and the gear had .020 oval wear inside. I bored the gear to .874 then took a piece of .875 by .065 wall tube bored it to .753 and cut a 3/16 key way in it. The new feed shaft is .749. The key was welded to the sleeve then the sleeve was pressed in with locktite 609 bearing adhesive. I will drill and install a set screw on each end the weld the screw to prevent movement. 001.JPG 002.JPG 004.JPG 006.JPG

    001.JPG 001.JPG 002.JPG 004.JPG 006.JPG
     
  9. vettebob

    vettebob United States Active User Active Member

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    Steady rest finished
    007.JPG Bob

    007.JPG
     
  10. samthedog

    samthedog Norway Active User Active Member

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    Lovely job! I am sure you mentioned how you painted the lathe but I missed it. Did you spray it or roll / brush it?

    Paul.
     
  11. vettebob

    vettebob United States Active User Active Member

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    Sprayed it. with single stage automotive paint
     
  12. vettebob

    vettebob United States Active User Active Member

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    It's been a while since I updated my work in progress. After a year of searching I finally Found a new front spindle bearing for my EE I already replaced the rear bearing. Here are some pics of my 5hp back max motor retrofit with gearbox . 001.JPG 002.JPG 006.JPG 003.JPG 002.JPG
    After running the Motor I found I had a vibration coming from the gearbox. I ended up making new shift sliders .050 oversize and truing up the groove in the dog gear. The vibration was better but I was still not satisfied so I replaced all the bearings in the gear box with new sealed bearings. I finally got rid of the vibration problem. I'm happy with it now. Tomorrow I'll post pics on my compound and carriage scraping. I hosted one of Richard Kings scraping classes and learned how to scrape in ways. Bob

    001.JPG 002.JPG 006.JPG 003.JPG 002.JPG
     
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2014
  13. chips&more

    chips&more United States Active User Active Member

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    VERY, VERY, VERY, nice!
     
  14. samthedog

    samthedog Norway Active User Active Member

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    It makes my lovely little Chipmaster look dowdy in comparison. That lathe is looking stunning and considering the time you are putting in to it getting it to run smooth and true, it will be a masterpiece when finished.

    Paul.
     
  15. vettebob

    vettebob United States Active User Active Member

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    Thanks for the compliment. After getting the drive operating smoothly. I scraped in my crosslide then machined my saddle for moglice. Here is the set-up to moglice the saddle. I made adjusting brackets for the 4 corners. then adjusted the crosslide to 0.0001 towards the headstock in 6". After getting everything adjusted I mogliced the saddle. There is one imperfection where a air pocket formed I may go back and repair it later. I also ran all new oil lines (what a pain that was) Here are some pics. I will show what my measurements ended up at tomorrow. Bob
    089.JPG 082.JPG 091.JPG 092.JPG 094.JPG

    089.JPG 082.JPG 091.JPG 092.JPG 094.JPG
     
  16. vettebob

    vettebob United States Active User Active Member

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    Ok here is what I ended up with. 0.0001 sag over 12" .0002 towards the operator over 12" and 0.0001 concave over 6" Total run out .0003 over 12"
    083.JPG 084.JPG 085.JPG 086.JPG 087.JPG

    The oiler in the apron oils everything really well. I can see why these lathes last so long I'll probably be buying oil by the bucket:thumbsup2:

    083.JPG 084.JPG 085.JPG 086.JPG 087.JPG
     
  17. vettebob

    vettebob United States Active User Active Member

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    As it's winter now and can't finish paiting the last parts I decided to put the lathe together and play a little. This lathe is so much more rigid and has more power than I will ever need. I played until I reduced a 1-1/2 by 12" 1018 bar to nothing. I even got a decent finish. .125 cut no problem even at 1000 rpm finishing cut a 2800 rpm with carbide something I couldn't even think about befor works well. 060 cut in o1 pushed my 3/8 tooling to the max I will have to get some larger tooling. Bob
     

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