Mitutoyo 24" (600mm) Height Gauge

GREAT but you put it together upside down!!!!

do over!!

now the floor is to low.
 
EXCEPT its now upside down! everything is going to fall off on the floor. Now you've done it! ;)
Glad you solved your problem even if I find such modifications egregious.
 
:grin big:
ch2co said:
EXCEPT its now upside down! everything is going to fall off on the floor. Now you've done it! ;)
Glad you solved your problem even if I find such modifications egregious.
Click to expand...

TOOLMASTER said:
GREAT but you put it together upside down!!!!

do over!!

now the floor is to low.
Click to expand...

Doh! I must have had the camera set to Aussie mode. Is that any better? :grin big:
 
You don't calibrate it by checking the low end of the gauge, you need to check it at intervals for the entire height. Once you have the numbers on a chart you can see how much the difference grows or shrinks as you move up the scale. If the numbers grow further from nominal at the top you need to lean the rear bar back some and test again. If the numbers shrink you lean it forward. The "leaning" is done by loosening the rear bar screws slightly (leaving them snug enough to keep the rear bar from slipping loose) ad use the wooden handle of a hammer to whack either the front or rear of the top cap in the direction it needs to go. Then retighten the screws and inspect again.

I give myself a 10 micron tolerance from the nominals on the Mitutoyo dual beam gauges. If you just want a quick and dirty smell check test it at top, middle and bottom to start with.
 
Holescreek said:
You don't calibrate it by checking the low end of the gauge, you need to check it at intervals for the entire height. Once you have the numbers on a chart you can see how much the difference grows or shrinks as you move up the scale. If the numbers grow further from nominal at the top you need to lean the rear bar back some and test again. If the numbers shrink you lean it forward. The "leaning" is done by loosening the rear bar screws slightly (leaving them snug enough to keep the rear bar from slipping loose) ad use the wooden handle of a hammer to whack either the front or rear of the top cap in the direction it needs to go. Then retighten the screws and inspect again.

I give myself a 10 micron tolerance from the nominals on the Mitutoyo dual beam gauges. If you just want a quick and dirty smell check test it at top, middle and bottom to start with.
Click to expand...

This guy knows of what he speaks! Nice discussion.explanation.

IF one was overly punctilious, one could plot gage block dimension on the X axis and measured dimension on the Y axis and one would have something of a calibration chart that could be used to compensate for any systematic error-assuming the distribution of error is constant and not random.

And there you have it, your class on theoretical error measurement, corrections, and compensation in two posts.!
 
I have found error at top, at bottom and only in the middle on some height gauges. Mitutoyo used to have a sticker on the side of the top cap showing that you should never pick one up by lifting on that cap or squeezing the bars together. What it didn't say was that buy doing that you could affect cal. I used to have to maintain (calibrate) and repair 60+ of these dual beam Mits and in the last 10 years have only had a few that couldn't be repaired due to obsolete parts.
 
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