Measuring cuts lengthwise?

Bob Korves said:
A 1" dial indicator with a magnetic back does the same job as the fancier solutions and is transferable to different machines and axes...
Click to expand...
Have you never made a part longer then 1"?

For speed and ease of use a DRO is the way to go for the Z axis.
If one requires more Z accuracy the rod and micrometer head stop as used on jig bore machines is an excellent choice, fussy however and very few lathes are so equipped, choose wisely.
A very high end DRO will probably get you to where you need to be unless you are chasing tenths.
 
Jmanb13 said:
Is there such a thing as a universal carriage stop? They look pretty basic in design, but since I don't have a mill yet, I don't think I would be able to fabricate one to fit over my V ways.
Click to expand...

Hacksaw, file, care and attention can make most things a mill can make...

Dave H. (the other one)
 
British Steel said:
Hacksaw, file, care and attention can make most things a mill can make...
Click to expand...

I made my first lathe stop for my South Bend by cutting the "v" with a horizontal band saw and finishing it by filing. I tapped a hole and used a nut and bolt as RJ mentioned above. Later I made one that held a 1" dial indicator. For lengths longer than 1" I set it up using gauge blocks.
 
British Steel said:
Hacksaw, file, care and attention can make most things a mill can make...

Dave H. (the other one)
Click to expand...

Charles Spencer said:
I made my first lathe stop for my South Bend by cutting the "v" with a horizontal band saw and finishing it by filing. I tapped a hole and used a nut and bolt as RJ mentioned above. Later I made one that held a 1" dial indicator. For lengths longer than 1" I set it up using gauge blocks.
Click to expand...

I will probably try something like this, as I just ordered a 1/2 plate to mount on my harbor freight bandsaw in its vertical position. Should allow me to cut a decent V groove and then file it to fit perfectly.
 
Not that good.

I did used to tell the young guys that I zeroed my rifle by firing a three round burst just for confirmation. And that the first thing I did when I got a new pencil was tear off the eraser and throw it away - never had any use for them.
 
Bob Korves said:
A 1" dial indicator with a magnetic back does the same job as the fancier solutions and is transferable to different machines and axes...
Click to expand...

Wreck™Wreck said:
Have you never made a part longer then 1"?
Click to expand...

Before I had a DRO all I used was a 1" dial indicator with mag back mounted on the way. Of course I made parts longer than 1". I would zero the cutter, move 1" on the DI, reposition the DI to zero, move the carriage again, & repeat till I got to the length I needed. Slow process but it worked for me. I had a 2" DI but I liked using the 1" better.

I still use that 1" DI for threading though. Digital sucks when you have to stop at a reading instantly.
 
Stefan Gotteswinter made a pretty cool indicator mount for his lathe that uses a cam lock lever. Seen @ 20:38



And Randy Richard recently made an interesting mag mount digital scale for his lathe. If interested there's also a follow up video as well as one that he made for his tail stock.

 
darkzero said:
I still use that 1" DI for threading though. Digital sucks when you have to stop at a reading instantly.
Click to expand...
For sure! It is a lot easier to stop the carriage while watching the needle swing around the indicator than watching a bunch of flickering numbers. DRO's work for that job, but not as well for me. I can open the half nuts on a 20 TPI thread at 300 rpm within a few thousandths using a dial indicator, but I do not have any DROs so I have not learned the skills of using one.
 
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