an angle iron will probably have a sharp 90 from outside.This particular piece may have been formed slowly from angle iron on ring roller with special dies. It may be more accessible than stamping, but hard to make without wrinkling the inner rim. Most heads I've seen were stamped out of brass sheet and formed, then nickel plated, like your typical kit set. That looks like a big hand tom or
I’m talking with the drum maker to try to figure how he made it. He’s implying to a shop press and some sort of a die/brake. Also i wasnt able to spot any welding marks on the hoop.So it's like a 9" dia. tambourine- okay, that's much smaller and lighter than it seemed from the photos. If the ring forms the rim of the drum and the head stretches over, I can see why you wouldn't want any corner edges. I am thinking that forming (brake plus ring rolling) is the way it was made, and is probably the best way to proceed, but it's also a bit of a specialty more closely related to blacksmithing. I don't think the bolt studs are any issue at all, just weld or braze them on after you get the part made.
usual Lancaster shrinker/stretcher like Ron Covel uses only work up to 18ga and 18ga is pretty tough compared to say 22ga. It also leaves a lot of deep marks and I see no evidence of that on the inside flat of the hoop. I think it was done with heat and a ring roller with groove for the flat of the hoop and straightened on an arbor press. The trick with all of this is moving the metal slowly. If you are getting kinks it’s too much too fast.Also In Ron Covell videos he uses a shrinker to make a ring out of angle sheet metal. which i still need to try