Machinist Level???

[Charles Spencer]

I just used the level I have and it worked out fine..

That's what I did. Later I got a machinist level and used it to check both of my lathes. They were both good.

 

[jjtgrinder]

Try this for cheap , it works.

 

[Downunder Bob]

That reminds me of this lathe South Bend made. The ship floor can move and twist, let this lathe would still cut fairly straight. I think it's a 16/24.

I spent most of my working life at sea as a Marine Engineer, and used many lathes and milling machines while at sea. Some ships had the machines very well mounted on a really rigid steel base frame so the flexing of the ship did not affect them, while others they were just bolted or even welded to the deck. This quite often resulted in a fine chatter pattern so that finish cuts had to be done with a file and fine emery tape, or if possible wait until the ship was in port and stable. I notice the lathe in the picture has a swivel foot at the tail stock end, and is quite possibly made for that exact use.

 

[Cadillac STS]

I spent most of my working life at sea as a Marine Engineer, and used many lathes and milling machines while at sea. Some ships had the machines very well mounted on a really rigid steel base frame so the flexing of the ship did not affect them, while others they were just bolted or even welded to the deck. This quite often resulted in a fine chatter pattern so that finish cuts had to be done with a file and fine emery tape, or if possible wait until the ship was in port and stable. I notice the lathe in the picture has a swivel foot at the tail stock end, and is quite possibly made for that exact use.

What type of work would you do at sea with a lathe or milling machine? I know they are used for repairing broken items but was there any regular work going on?

 

[Downunder Bob]

What type of work would you do at sea with a lathe or milling machine? I know they are used for repairing broken items but was there any regular work going on?

G'day Cadillac,It would depend a great deal on the type of ship, the size, the run and the cargo. Most of my experience was on various cargo ships ranging from 100m to 300m long, and from 20,000 T to 136,000 T. The cargo's varied from bulk carriers, petroleum tankers, general cargo and containers. they were all driven by large slow and medium speed diesel engines Ranging from about 10,000 BHP to 20,000 BHP. For a typical engine google Sulzer 6RTA 76 this engine with 6 cylinders of 76cm bore produces about 14,000hp at 80 RPM.

Typical machining work would involve routine jobs like facing exhaust valves and seats. Making up new sealing rings for centrifugal pumps, Repairing/ replacing anything that was worn out or broken, making special tools to make routine service jobs easier, safer and quicker. Machining worn pump shafts and making a sleeve for them, re cutting worn piston ring grooves on air compressor pistons, to fit oversize rings. I've even had to make a new spool for a hydraulic valve that had lost it's chrome plating due to salt waster getting under it. This is generally done ashore on a specialised center less grinder or a center grinder on a chrome plated spool, the required finish is very fine and a finished dia. of +- 0.0001". The spool was 2"Dia. and 10"long. Some of the other guys on the ship said I couldn't do it, my standard answer was "Watch me". Yes, it worked long enough to get us back to home port where a new part had been ordered and was waiting.

we often welded up or braze worn parts and machine back to size, sometimes with hard facing. We also managed on occasion to make a home job for our own use.

 

[gi_984]

bobshobby, very impressive. What brands/models of machines did you use on board?

 

[Downunder Bob]

bobshobby, very impressive. What brands/models of machines did you use on board?

Too many brands and models to remember, would often depend on where the ship was built and who it was built for. Commonly they would be British, Australian, German, Swedish, and Japanese. Usually because that is where the ship was built.

Most commonly we would just get a good lathe usually with a swing of between 12" and 18" and a bed of 24"to 48 ", these dimensions would be related to the size of the parts we would be required to work on. Sometimes we would be lucky and get a modest mill or a thee way combination lathe and mill.

 

[epanzella]

I got my machinists level from Grizzly. .0005" per 10 inches. Each graduation is .0002". $107. Worked great. You don't absolutely need a good level but it sure makes the job go a lot quicker. I'm a contractor with plenty of good carpentry levels. I can put my machinist level on top of my best carpentry level and make the bubble go off one end of the scale of the machinists level and then the other end without the bubble moving on the carpentry level. It's not the quality of the level it's the taper of the glass vile that gives you the .0005 per 10 inches. It doesn't even matter if it's perfectly accurate as long as you use it facing the same way every time. A good method to use with any level.

 

[jimbob]

M

 

[TakeDeadAim]

You dont need the most expensive level you just need to calibrate the one you do have. Any decent precision level will be adjustable so you need to or borrow a known flat and level surface like a surface plate. I find a good spot on the plate then use an angle plate or heavy straight edge to mark a spot to put the level against. Turn the level 180 degrees adjust the vial until it reads the same in direction. Be careful its very sensitive. When you level your lathe do the same thing. So long as you put the level down in the same spot this always works. I have leveled many machines this way from lathes to large boring bars.

There are two kinds of lathes, ones built with solid beds that don't flex much and those that are not as stiff and can be twisted easier and the jacks used to get them cutting straight. They will all adjust with the jack screws to some extent. Some are actually made to have wear adjusted out of them, the old W&S turret lathes were a perfect example of that design. Newer lathes have the headstock as a separate casting from the bed so the hardened ways can be surfaced easier then the head bolted on and aligned to the ways, with the final tune in done with the two cut rings method.

Ive done many, let me know if you need help.