Machinist "buttons"

[Firestopper]

Ok, I understand. It seem there is a better way than a floating button (PITA).

 

[34_40]

WHEW! I think I struck a nerve with that question! I'll pop over to You tube and search for the correct name to see it in use.

Thanks to all for taking the time to reply.

 

[Wreck™Wreck]

I try to machine to +/- .0005 but always room for perfection.

"Trying" and "succeeding" are completely different things with lathes and milling machines, everyone tries to hit the numbers. This is what cylindrical and surface grinders are made for.

Made 3 parts today, one feature was on the drawing as follows, counterbore .8749-.8746 diameter X .281 +.005 -.000 deep, .002 concentricity between the ID and the OD which is 1.000 +/- .005, after welding, 304 stainless material. This was not a customer drawing it was made by our own in-house engineer, I had to go into his office and kick him in the shins, one at a time (-:
How would you measure such a feature?

 

[Brokenbuild]

Tom from Ox Tools shows buttons in use in his youtube video "Etching Press bearing housings part 2". Search youtube for oxtoolco bearing housings and you'll find it. Perhaps this link will work but since I'm new to the forum, maybe not!

 

[mainspring]

I have a couple sets of the buttons from Starrett. We used to use them in the old days before DROs
for precision layouts when boring, setting up plates for punching dies, and for precision faceplate work.
Pick a closely layed out spot for "0-0" then go to your next location and D&T for the button screw. Set
your distances with gauge blocks, minus one button diameter. Adjust second button. Continue to your
other locations. Recheck with blocks. I find it easiest to use two set of blocks. HOd one dimension while you
set/ recheck the next.
Eventually, mount the work and indicate in your button with a tenths indicator. Remove the button, and
perform your boring operation.
I am not a huge fan of buttons, but we used them a lot on dies where the material was thin and the punch and
die had to fit line to line.

 

[Bill C.]

I thought the video was done very well too. What I don't understand is why the button needs to be adjustable if your layout is spot on.
A one piece button should work if your layout is good..right?
I'm still learning a lot in the machining realm, despite only having 4 years of HS machining some some 35+ years ago. I have been milling and turning on my own since 2001.
Any explanation would be appreciated.

Paco

Now days most of us have better and cheaper layout equipment. The holes are oversize in case of a miscalculation during setup.

 

[34_40]

Thanks Again for all those who took time to reply!! The oxtoolco video was most helpful.
I do have a set of buttons and a shaper/planer gauge and now have a much better idea of how to use them both.

So again, thanks to ALL for these replies!

 

[Bill C.]

I know it may seem strange to layout, drill and tap a hole location then add a button to fine tune it's exact location. A lot of work but the layout person may not be the machinist who will do the work. In my day we did a lot of layout using height gages and gage blocks using angle plates on granite surface blocks. They may be old but in the right hands they can be just as precise as a DRO is today. Thanks for asking and sharing.

 

[DKD228]

Now days most of us have better and cheaper layout equipment. The holes are oversize in case of a miscalculation during setup.

I have a couple sets of the buttons from Starrett. We used to use them in the old days before DROs
for precision layouts when boring, setting up plates for punching dies, and for precision faceplate work.
Pick a closely layed out spot for "0-0" then go to your next location and D&T for the button screw. Set
your distances with gauge blocks, minus one button diameter. Adjust second button. Continue to your
other locations. Recheck with blocks. I find it easiest to use two set of blocks. HOd one dimension while you
set/ recheck the next.
Eventually, mount the work and indicate in your button with a tenths indicator. Remove the button, and
perform your boring operation.
I am not a huge fan of buttons, but we used them a lot on dies where the material was thin and the punch and
die had to fit line to line.

Now days most of us have better and cheaper layout equipment. The holes are oversize in case of a miscalculation during setup.

HOLES ARE OVERSIZE FOR THE PURPOSE OF ADJUSTMENT TO REQUIRED DIMENSIONAL TOLERANCE, as intended by the manufacturer of the buttons, not for simple
miscalculation in the layout. Sole purpose and function of using the buttons relies on the ability to move and adjust the button to a location within given parameters. Here is a link for
reference, by Harold Hall on the topic; http://www.homews.co.uk/page273.html

 

[Bill C.]

HOLES ARE OVERSIZE FOR THE PURPOSE OF ADJUSTMENT TO REQUIRED DIMENSIONAL TOLERANCE, as intended by the manufacturer of the buttons, not for simple
miscalculation in the layout. Sole purpose and function of using the buttons relies on the ability to move and adjust the button to a location within given parameters. Here is a link for
reference, by Harold Hall on the topic; http://www.homews.co.uk/page273.html

Thanks for the clarification. I never used them, but worked with those who did. I appreciate the link too. I didn't know there were ground washers so the button wouldn't move when tightening. I always learn something new on here.