Machinist "buttons"

[34_40]

I've seen something called "machinist buttons" on ebay and wonder what they are used for.. Seems they come as a set of 4?

Would anyone know of their use? Or maybe have a picture as an example?

 

[ch2co]

Try this video to see how they work. I've never seen them myself until you asked, so thank you, I'm now happier.

Chuck the grumpy old guy

 

[Bill Gruby]

That video has been site disabled. It can only be viewed on You Tube.

Machinist Buttons are used in center finding and layout worn. I will see if I can find something on them for you. Their official name is "Tool Makers Buttons"

"Billy G"

 

[Wreck™Wreck]

I've had 2 sets of Starrett buttons in my box for 25+ years and have never used them, they were my Grandfathers so I keep them.

 

[uncle harry]

That video has been site disabled. It can only be viewed on You Tube.

Machinist Buttons are used in center finding and layout worn. I will see if I can find something on them for you. Their official name is "Tool Makers Buttons"

"Billy G"

I was able to view this video by clicking on the YOU TUBE "button" on the lower right of the frame. The video is very well done.

 

[Firestopper]

I thought the video was done very well too. What I don't understand is why the button needs to be adjustable if your layout is spot on.
A one piece button should work if your layout is good..right?
I'm still learning a lot in the machining realm, despite only having 4 years of HS machining some some 35+ years ago. I have been milling and turning on my own since 2001.
Any explanation would be appreciated.

Paco

 

[ronzo]

I have used them about 60 years ago. They were designed by the devil.
if you want to drive yourself nuts try locating a 4 hole pattern with a +/- .0002 or .0005 location. They are meant to be used by first locating tapped hole for the button mounting screw by scribed lines and center punching. The holes in the buttons themselves are substantially larger than the crews to facilitate moving them to the proper location. You first locate the button in one axis say X and once that is achieved you tackle the other direction. After locating Y you go back and recheck X. Of course it has moved. So you redo it the whole thing all over again. Now do the same to the other 3 holes. Then locate each of the buttons on the axis of whatever machine you are going to bore them on. It could be looked upon as a poor man's jig boring tecnique, a very very poor man.
Ron





Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[uncle harry]

I thought the video was done very well too. What I don't understand is why the button needs to be adjustable if your layout is spot on.
A one piece button should work if your layout is good..right?
I'm still learning a lot in the machining realm, despite only having 4 years of HS machining some some 35+ years ago. I have been milling and turning on my own since 2001.
Any explanation would be appreciated.

Paco

Hi, I find that "spot on" has a range of tolerances. Layout when skillfully done is relatively accurate. Some locating requires more precise tolerances. That's where the gauge blocks, height gauge, dial indicator and angle plate come in. Using the combination of these tools requires clearance in the tool button so it will move to contact the gauge block surfaces.

 

[Firestopper]

Thanks uncle h, I have so much to learn. It's seems the block the video showed would have been rotated and scribed on all four sides using the hight gauge indicating true center. Then a precise center pin (I don't know all the terminology) threaded in to aid in idicating on the four jaw chuck. I try to machine to +/- .0005 but always room for perfection.
I really appreciate this site.

 

[John Hasler]

Thanks uncle h, I have so much to learn. It's seems the block the video showed would have been rotated and scribed on all four sides using the hight gauge indicating true center. Then a precise center pin (I don't know all the terminology) threaded in to aid in idicating on the four jaw chuck. I try to machine to +/- .0005 but always room for perfection.
I really appreciate this site.

Your method would add the error in locating the pin to that due to centering it.
If I wanted to bore the true center of such a block I'd use a DTI to center it in the 4-jaw directly.

However, centering the hole may not be what is wanted. The method shown places the hole a precise distance from each of two sides.