Logan 2535 Vlh New To Me.

76kcfdcapt

Too many projects, too little time.
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So while on the hunt for a motor for a Sebastian 16x60 I am working on I stumbled across a Logan 2535 VLH. I had no idea what it was when I found it except it was a Logan. It was packed in a seatrain filled with tools of all sorts, piled on top of it and all around it. It was not connected to power and too crowded in there to use it anyway. The woman who owns it lost her husband 2 years ago, he was a tool hoarder, no better way to put it. So anyway she is selling everything so of course I had to have the lathe. A friend of mine and I spent a whole day removing the lathe and going through most of the tools in the seatrain. We left with a truck and trailer loaded with stuff and barely made a dent in in the load of stuff in the seatrain.
So from what I have been able to find the 2535 only came as a turret lathe, this one has a tailstock. The tailstock looks small and looks like a spacer on the bottom to bring it to the proper height, normal? It is in good condition, need to clean it. Came with 3 and 4 jaw chucks (Cushman), collet closer with collets, steady rest, KDK tool holder, and some other stuff. I still have to look through more thoroughly. I will post more pics and info later after I get it unloaded. These pics are where I got it from after removing stuff from around it.

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So I am going through the tooling and looking the machine over better. The tailstock is certainly for a smaller machine as is the steady rest that came with it. So I am looking for the proper tailstock, steady rest and a face plate if anyone happens to have either for sale. So far it looks great, Doerr 1hp 3ph motor, vari drive seems complete. Not sure the compound is correct either but it came with 2, both the same. More to come, still on the trailer.
 
So the model is actually 2535 2VLH. It has an L-00 spindle. I am trying to remove the collet adapter and I am not sure how to get the tapered piece out. Is it locked on a taper or is it somehow screwed on? I got the big outside ring loose but it is captured by the part the collet fits in to. The serial is 76749, any idea on the year? Also how much oil in the headstock and type? Both gears in the headstock missing parts of some teeth, none completely missing. More pics.

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Here is a pic of the stuff I picked up, can't see what most of it is but it was a big score. Behind the lathe is a 1x42 Burr King belt sander, to cheap to pass up. Lots of grease, grinding wheels, sandpaper, drill bits, brand new files, marvel mystery oil, wd40, and some nice tools.

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I did a little search and found the serial info, lathe was built in 61/62. All the 2535s in the Logan model numbers show a pedestal, this has a cabinet. Maybe the wrong tag?
 
That's a cool looking machine. Go easy on removing the collet sleeve (make up a nice puller). Could try giving it a shot of that instant cold spray to try to shrink it out? Keep the pictures coming.
 
Capt,

I don't know anything specifically about the Logan 2535 but every collet closer adapter I have ever seen that was for a lathe with a Morse taper in the spindle fit the Morse taper. On threaded nose spindles, the screw-on thread protector normally doubles as a collet adapter remover. For lathes with other than threaded nose spindles, you need to make a remover. Get a piece of solid round aluminum about 1/4" to 1/2" larger in diameter than the nominal spindle bore and about 2" longer than the spindle. Turn the bar down to a diameter about 1/32" smaller than the spindle bore for a length about 1/4" longer than the spindle.

Slide the remover bar into the spindle until it hits the adapter. Hold your right hand over the adapter, slide the bar back two or three inches and with your left hand slide it forward smartly to hit the adapter. If necessary, repeat two or three times.

Under normal circumstances that will remove the adapter. However, if the adapter has been in the spindle for years, it may not. If it doesn't, slide the remover back an inch or so and apply a little penetrating oil in the gap between the spindle nose and the adapter. Let sit for an hour or so. Slide the remover up to touching the adapter. With your right hand over the adapter, hit the left end of the remover with a hammer. Repeat twice if necessary.

If that doesn't do it, make a baffle from a piece of thin cardboard or PC board material or etc. by first cutting a hole in the middle the diameter of the large end of the Morse taper part of the adapter. Cut a slot from the hole to any edge. Slide this into the gap between the spindle nose and the adapter flange. With a heat gun, heat the spindle nose until noticeably warm, and repeat with the hammer. Repeat at one or two hour intervals until the adapter comes out. Don't forget the right hand for catching the adapter when it does eventually come out. You might want to have a glove on your right hand.
 
Thank you Robert, that is quite helpful. I sure don't want to damage the adapter. I am assuming it has been in there quite a long time. The L-00 spindle has a threaded lock ring that is holding a spindle protector and that protector hits the collet adapter before it is fully off the thread. I don't think I can push it off with that as it would have very few threads still engaged, also course thread. Have a couple of days at work before I can get back to it so we shall see.
Thanks, Glen
 
Right. That's why I picked aluminum (probably something like 6061T6, which is easy to find) for the extraction bar. After you get it out the first time, it might be different with yours later because there is more surface area in contact with the larger taper size. But with my Atlas with 3MT, it usually only takes one good "whap" from sliding the bar in and kinda "throwing" it at the adapter in order to remove it. Of course, that's with the adapter only having been in the spindle for a short time. For short jobs, I always use the handwheel equipped draw tube rather that taking the time to fit the lever operated one. And don't leave the adapter in the spindle when I'm not actually using it.
 
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