Logan 11" Lathe - Wiring

Flyrod

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Hi All - not an electrician, or very experienced with things electrical so please excuse use of incorrect terms etc

Pictures are here

https://goo.gl/photos/s1zNnkMc1c65ipu86

Objective: run the lathe on 220v, off of a double pole 15 amp breaker

Issue: I cannot remove the motor without a lot of work - i have access to the wires coming out of the motor, but they have paint overspray and even where they do not, I cannot read the markings on the wires - the motor originally had the wires labelled T1, T2, T3, T4, T5 and T8 - but as I said, i can no longer make out the labeling - so, I am trying to see if i can back into what is what through these questions - the motor does have all 6 wires

when i bought the lathe it was running, but i don't know if the outlet was 220 and neither did the seller

going into the lathe is 12/3 rubber cord - there is a wacky set up where a shut off switch was added before the shut off switch that came with the lathe (i think it came with it) - to be clear, what i mean by 12/ 3 is 12 gauge and a black, white and a green

from the shut off switch appears to be a 14/3 (again, black, white, green) that goes to the fwd, rev, stop switch that came with the lathe - however, exiting the switch and going to the motor is a 12/4 cable - black, white, red, green

according to the diagram on the motor, if it were run as 115, there should be 2 bundles of wires - and if 220, there should be three bundles...a single motor wire to line, two different wires to line and a bundle of three called "tape" - i don't know what tape means

what i actually have at the motor is 4 bundles - one with two motor wires, one with two motor wires, one with one motor wire and one other with one motor wire

that doesn't match any of the diagrams on the motor ... so i really don't know what i have

the cut off wire in each of the four bundles corresponds to a wire going back to the switch and can be seen on the photos of the switch and on the penciled sketch

anyone have any idea how i can tell which motor wire is what to properly wire it for 220??

thanks (and sorry for the length)
 
IMG_1190.PNG IMG_1191.PNG You can figure this out with an ohm meter. The motor has three separate coils in it. T1-T2, T3-T4, and T5-T8. I don't know the exact reading but t1-t2 should read same as t3-t4 with t5-t8 being a different value. Separate all the wires coming out of the motor. Pick a single wire with one lead of your meter and find another lead that gives you a reading. Note the reading. Repeat with another random motor lead, you get the idea. In the end one group will have a different reading, that will be T5-T8. With that info and the diagram on the data tag should get you pointed in the right direction.
 
Did the cord have a plug on it , or wired direct when you got it. You need a grommet on that motor hole and an external box attached there . Running that size wire really isn't needed on that motor or switch.
 
What Z2V said is correct, I wanted to elaborate on ringing out the windings: when you find the start leg (the T5, T8 winding) the meter will first show a low resistance and then climb towards infinity due to the action of the start capacitor on the motor. If you then reverse the leads on your meter you will see this again, the meter dips then rises. This is much easier with an old fashioned needle type meter- even a cheap Radio Shack model would be fine for this test.
Mark S.
Once you have the motor wires identified then we can tackle the rest of the wiring
startleg1u.jpeg
 
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Looking at your pictures it looks like the two red leads coming out of the motor are the start leg wires. Test those first. The wiring looks pretty ratty, recommend redoing most of it. Keep track of the bundles coming out of the motor for now.
Mark S.
 
I came across this table in my travels. It may be a good starting point:


Single Phase Terminal Markings Identified By Color: (NEMA Standards)
1-Blue
2-White
3-Orange
4-Yellow
5-Black
6-No color assigned
7-No color assigned
8-Red

P1-No color assigned
P2-Brown
 
thanks all:

will test as suggested

plan on rewiring everything

agree the wiring is over-sized (other than from the cut off switch to the fwd/rev/stop switch (which is original and brittle like dried parchment) which appears to be 14/3) - according to the tables I am looking at, and the motor tag that says 5.4 amps at 22ov, 14 gauge wire should be plenty with a 15 amp double pole breaker - agree?

will check back in with results
 
You can figure this out with an ohm meter. The motor has three separate coils in it. T1-T2, T3-T4, and T5-T8. I don't know the exact reading but t1-t2 should read same as t3-t4 with t5-t8 being a different value. Separate all the wires coming out of the motor. Pick a single wire with one lead of your meter and find another lead that gives you a reading. Note the reading. Repeat with another random motor lead, you get the idea. In the end one group will have a different reading, that will be T5-T8. With that info and the diagram on the data tag should get you pointed in the right direction.

Z2V or Mark (or anyone) - i am an amateur with the multimeter, but i have one - to be clear, this is a continuity reading in that each of coils creates a loop? - or am i supposed to be using a different function on the multimeter?

thanks

EDIT: after re-reading your posts and watching some utube videos it became clear we were testing resistance and not continuity...sorry for being slow
 
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Did the cord have a plug on it , or wired direct when you got it. You need a grommet on that motor hole and an external box attached there . Running that size wire really isn't needed on that motor or switch.

it had a plug on it - it was a standard three prong plug...i realize that leans toward 115 v wiring at time of purchase, but ....
 
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