Link to schematics for building phase converters and starters

Thanks for posting that Nelson. While it's not likely I will be building any converters, (I bought the one I have) after looking through some of the set-ups shown it did cause a light to come on. :D

I need to make myself a sign to hang by the mill reminding me to hit the service disconnect in case of a power failure. I have no starter/contactor set up for my RPC - only the disconnect to shut off the power. I used one of the original contactors to feed the VFD in my lathe conversion, so it is protected. But the mill is not and it is something I always forget about, sad to say. :(
 
google "fitch williams phase converter"

fitch seems to have been one of the pioneers involved in "homebuilt" RPCs and you will get all sorts of info on RPCs, building, balancing and otherwise negating your home and shop insurance.

Walter
 
Walter,

Now you have me thinking I need to have an electrician do the VFD for me, so I have someone to blame if a fire results Heaven forbid. :eek:


Nelson
 
Nelson

Not trying to scare anybody, but I have been involved in this for too many years. done many insurance quotes and safety inspections on tools that have been involved in fires.

As long as a person is skilled enough to do the job, and follows the appropriate codes for the area, there should not be any red flags flying if there is ever need for an adjuster. The problems arise when the workmanship is clearly shoddy and the wiring is clearly not up to code, and unfortunately, all the adjuster needs to find is one small example, anywhere in the building and they can then theorize that the rest was just as bad or worse.

The main rule of thumb, is to make sure that all components being used in the project are certified for your country. CSA or UL(C) for Canada, and UL for the US. Not sure about the codes for other countries. Next make sure that all your wiring is properly sized for the load and that all wiring is done neat and tidy. There is nothing to say that a amateur can not do a better job than a professional, matter of fact many amateurs do a much better job. Remember, the only real difference between an amateur and a professional is that the pro gets paid to do it, the amateur does not!

Also getting the necessary permits and inspections goes a long way to mitigating any future problems. Most homeowners can pull a permit easily and there are very few things that homeowners can not do to there own prperties with the proper permits.

Walter
 
Walter,

I understand what you mean. I am redoing the rough-in wiring in my basement because the code requires 8" of wire in each box, and I only have 6" or 7". I don't want problems with the inspector or, heaven forbid, as you say, later on with the adjuster. I didn't realize it was a red flag for inspectors, etc., until I bought a book that mentioned this. Why take chances.

Nelson
 
Here is a schematic that I used for my 5 hp RPC. I posted it elsewhere on this site before. It's been powering my Webb 3 hp Milling Machine for about a year and a half now and it works beautifully.

I prefer a 1,750 rpm motor for an idler since they tend to be quieter than the 3,450 versions.

Enjoy.

RotaryPhaseConverterMiller.png
 
Nelson, I am curious as to the rationale for having 8" of wire in a box. Is that something in your area?
 
Basic Electrical code says that the wires should be about 8" long so that you can hold the receptacle or switch far enough from the box in order to properly wire it during installation or removal without straining the wires. Too much more wire becomes a pain as the box is not big enough to handle all the extra wiring. Too short, well that is the start of many shorts trying to yank the wire out far enough to attach it.

Walter
 
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