LC-30A Milling machine - Drill chuck with MT3 taper

slow-poke

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Newbie here, I recently picked up an old LC-30A drill/Milling machine. It came with some tooling but not a drill chuck.

Can I use any drill chuck with a MT#3 taper or do I need to find one with a threaded end for the draw bar?

Am I better to get a good used one for example a Jacobs or a new ebay special?

Keyed or keyless?
 
A drill chuck with a MT3, or one with a straight shaft which fits one of your collets will all work well.

Daryl
MN
 
if you can find one on Ebay, look for a double grip drill chuck
they are mostly antique now, but let me tell you they work wonderfully.
i stumbled by them accidentally, but boy i'm glad i did.
they are a bit slow to use, but the grip is incomparable to modern chucks.
a jacobs chuck can be made to spin a bit, the double grip is highly unlikely to spin the same bit.
i know this may sound a bit like a public service announcement, but i really have only good things to say about them.

to be fair i can list a couple of downfalls.
the DG chucks can be large
slow to change tooling
they take up some headspace that may be needed for smaller machines

if you could find a way to get around the shortcomings, the DG's are hard to beat

in case you have not seen pictures, allow me to enlighten you

VFD 12.jpg
dgrip1-jpg.48418

dgrip3-jpg.48420

15025-dddba67bf04ce9f8cee56267413f7165.jpg

if you can use them, i'd get them!
good luck!
 
Hmmm,

DG chuck, interesting. I will create an ebay search.

When used in a vertical mill, is it okay to use a non-threaded (tang style) shank. Or is it necessary to have the threaded style that mates to the draw bar?
 
For the Morse Taper arbor for use with a drill chuck in the mill, you don't necessarily need a drawbar since a drill chuck should not be exposed to side loads. But make sure your quill has a slot for using a drift key to release the MT arbor.

Even though, I would use an arbor with a drawbar anyways cause you can. The extra safety is worth it & using a draw bar to release the arbors is quicker & easier than using a drift key.
 
if you can find one on Ebay, look for a double grip drill chuck
they are mostly antique now, but let me tell you they work wonderfully.
Mike is right on. I also have one, and it is as good as anything made today. No, they are better. I don't think any have been made for at least the last 75 years, maybe longer, so I try to save mine for heavy work that is not likely to tear it up. No issues with it so far. It is accurate, strong, and just works well. Mine is from the very early 1900's and looks and works like new after a bit of cleanup.
 
If you have any interest in a Boring Head DBL 203 with a MT3 integral shank then let me know.

Daryl
MN
 
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