Lathe support frame and tray project.

Dranreb

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As it's raining I can't be 'volunteered' for gardening duties :scared: so I'm posting this instead..it is a n off shoot from here: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...d-on-iron-legs-why?p=77909&posted=1#post77909

I made this to hopefully do a better job that a plank of wood, and look sort of the same style as a factory made one might look, it turned out to be much easier to do than I thought it would when I started, I reckon anyone who has a MIG even if they've never bent sheet metal before could do it too.

First I made these inserts to fit snugly inside some RHS steel, the larger bolts fit the cast iron legs and the smaller fit the lathe feet, the skinny washers are to centralize them in the oversize holes I made in the steel for wriggle room.

legs1.JPG

Holes where drilled in the RHS steel (de-burring the inside is essential) the inserts where slid inside then the lathe feet bolted to them using the skinny washers to centralize.

View attachment 42290

Short pieces where cut as braces.

The frame was squared up, tacked together and welded together whilst cramped to a flat surface (I used an old lathe bed) to keep it straight, the vertical welds where done first, the top welds where ground before turning the frame over and re cramping to weld the underside ones. All welds where kept around 1" long and spread about to avoid distortion.

legs3.JPG

The ends where rounded off for appearance sake, in order to get a nice radius I cut pieces off a tube and straighten them into a J shape in the vise, and held in place for welding with some mega strong magnets robbed out of old microwave ovens, I have no pics of this because the god Pic fell asleep at this point and let me forget to take any.

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The 'outriggers' under the gearbox are too long in this pic, yeah I know measure twice cut once!

legs4.JPG

It is essential to always have at least one bolt screwed into each insert at all times before the ends are sealed, for obvious reasons. Tacking them in place is not a good idea as Atlas castings where not drilled with any precision...Maybe this is the real reason for the original use of wood, much easier for the customer to alter the holes to fit...line up the rule with the cross brace below to judge for yourself. Needless to say these holes needed work.

legs6.JPG

Lunch time now, so part two to come later.

Bernard

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Here we go with part two, the dreaded sheet metal bending without making it looking like bad origami.

At first as I don't have a folder, I was going to modify some old metal shelving, but after a few false starts, decided it would be easier to use some slightly damaged sheet rescued from a skip (dumpster)

Four holes where drilled and the sheet was bolted to the frame using lathe feet, which where carefully lined up.

I didn't want the tray to over hang at the front because I would be sure to drop something on it or find some other way to bend it. It was also important to be able to cramp the forming tube tight to the frame to keep the bottom of the tray really flat. You can see here I used a square tube against the feet to align it all up.

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The sheet was formed around the tube with a rubber mallet, it's not shown here but I also held a large sledge hammer on top of the tube as I worked along for extra solidity. One of the cramps was moved along too, I was hitting quite hard and didn't worry too much about wrinkling at this stage, just made sure it was rounding up nicely.

This is the back with no square spacer.

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After it was pretty well shaped, before removing the formers, I spent some time tapping the small wrinkles in the top edges with a hammer until the metal was straight and laid tight against the former. I was amazed how well this worked!

View attachment 42309

Next job was the ends.

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Part 3 coming up after another cup of tea..

Bernard

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Looking good man I like it

Thanks, it came out better than I expected.

Something went wrong with pic 43209 I edited to rotate it and it disappeared, would a mod be able correct this please?

Part 3, the even more dreaded corners...

Cut a right angle point on a strip of sheet metal and belted it a few times into the hole in my adjustable wrench with a ball hammer, trimmed it to fit the corner cutouts, tack weld trim, tack weld trim a few times and it looked OK, repeat four times.

legs11.JPG

The QCGB balcony was welded on but doing a round internal/external corner beat me.
Turned it over and ground welds smooth, pin holes in the welds were noticed and I have to admit to using a bit of JB weld to seal them. waited till it was half set then wiped it smooth with some thinners on a cloth.

legs12.JPG

Stood back to look at it and noticed that the top edge was not exactly level all round, so I applied some black marker pen around it, then cramped a straight edge (used a level but anything straight will do) across the two corners, checking the height carefully.

legs13.JPG

Scribed a line under a spacer (ruler) that was deeper than the irregularities, did all round by the same method.

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Then out with the flap wheel to take off excess, sand smooth, then paint and job done.

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The finished article for those who missed it last time..

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My thanks to the gods of Nit and Pic for overseeing this project :)

Bernard

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you really did a nice job it looks great
one would think the lathe came with it.
steve
 
Thanks for the nice comments guys, I do lean towards the free hand, as my grip on figures and precision, (which I am finding is much needed for good lathe work) is something I really struggle with, we all learn from each other here although the flow is rather one directional in my case.

The sharp eyed may have noticed that I made some threaded insets to fit old washing machine adjustable feet to my lathe legs, with these fitted the lathe seems very unstable, I could easily push it over. Is this normal without bolting it down or is it because I have narrowed the effective base line by
around 3"?

Bernard
 
the lathe seems very unstable, I could easily push it over. Is this normal without bolting it down or is it because I have narrowed the effective base line by
around 3"?

Bernard

Narrowing by 3" couldn't help. As built a lathe is top heavy. An atlas and some others are top heavy and have a lot of weight high and to the backside. Some people just put a bracket to the wall so it feels more stable. If the shop is in the house and the use of the lathe "livens" the house just use outriggers.

Steve
 
Altas legs do seem to be narrower than other makes I have seen, and I've seen pics of them with casters in the leg holes!

Think I'll make something to put the adjuster feet further apart, if any one knows a neat but ridged way of doing this I would love to see it, all suggestions welcome.

Bernard
 
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