I have .0004” runout on the taper of the spindle. I checked the spindle at the rear and had .0035” runout. It’s bad enough that I can see it while running the lathe. I marked the high and low spots on the taper and they coincide the same with the rear. I guess I will have to put bearings in this lathe.
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Lathe spindle runout
- Thread starter BWS Arms
- Start date
I have adjusted the front and rear bearings with no improvement. I purchased the lathe knowing it had a noisy headstock but was hoping it was a gear. The good news is there’s only about.0005” wear on the ways so the machine is otherwise in great condition.
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2013
- Messages
- 3,627
What type of lathe are you working with?
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2020
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Is this hot ao cold? If after running the bearings aren't near the correct temperature then they are not tight enough.
Did you take a large force and seat the bearings?
In producing brand new American made lathes in the last century, it was not uncommon to place a 100 lb. Lead weight on the crane and direct its blow through the center line of the spindle from the chuck end towards the end bearing.
This seated all the components on the spindle and often times was the only way to achieve stated accuracy.
As time went on when hand fitting the components for the spindle the fits were opened up to less of an interference fit towards a two thumb press fit.
You are close, if the bearings aren't noisy then start by warming the spindle by running it at various rpms for about half an hour.
Try the adjustments, check with a .001 feeler stock for clearance between the components on the spindle.
If anything caught a burr then it might show as a very small gap between components.
Again depending on the headstock design and bearings, bearing adjustments can and will vary.
Did you take a large force and seat the bearings?
In producing brand new American made lathes in the last century, it was not uncommon to place a 100 lb. Lead weight on the crane and direct its blow through the center line of the spindle from the chuck end towards the end bearing.
This seated all the components on the spindle and often times was the only way to achieve stated accuracy.
As time went on when hand fitting the components for the spindle the fits were opened up to less of an interference fit towards a two thumb press fit.
You are close, if the bearings aren't noisy then start by warming the spindle by running it at various rpms for about half an hour.
Try the adjustments, check with a .001 feeler stock for clearance between the components on the spindle.
If anything caught a burr then it might show as a very small gap between components.
Again depending on the headstock design and bearings, bearing adjustments can and will vary.