lathe made lathe tools?

M

Marseyus

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first let me start off by hoping this is in the right forum, and also apologizing if this has already been posted, i did some searching and only found 2 individual items.

So to the topic, I am searching for a basic list of tools and parts used by a lathe that can be made by a lathe. I've seen the holders for taps and dies, and a plan for a cutter, but was hunting for some more.
 
Do you have a milling attachment? With enough time and creative set up, you can make most anything you want. A mill makes it alot easier, but we do what we must. How bout a radius turner, spring loaded tap guide, tail stock extension, carriage stop
 
In the case of any lathe with a threaded nose, the additional chuck you buy does not generally include a backplate. In some cases, there are no ready-made backplates available. So you have to turn your own, including the thread. And even if you can buy a pre-threaded one, you need to face the mounting surface and cut the register to size.

Lots of people have produced Morse tapered items for their lathes, including tap and die holders.

Pulleys are easy, and by locking the chuck's rotation, you can cut internal keyways with the carriage (I've done it).

If you add the correct mount to the cross slide, you can do milling on a lathe, and that opens up an entire new universe. I seem to recall reading that the lathe was a tool that could clone itself. Not sure how you'd go about making V ways, but you could definitely make round ones.

And then there's something I've had to do for my 9x20 lathe - not a fabrication, but definitely a lathe job. I'd purchased an AXA size QCTP and discovered it was difficult to tighten down enough to keep it from rotating under load. The top of the compound was just very slightly convex, with the high spot at the center stud. So I temporarily replaced the 4-way tool post, chucked the QCTP base in the 4-jaw, and relieved about a 1 1/4" diameter circle around the middle. Didn't need to go very deep - something like .020 or .030. Once that was done, the QCTP was held tightly by friction around its periphery.

I'm sure there will be a goodly number of very interesting responses to your post. And welcome to the forum!
 
With a milling attachment you would just use a dove tail cutter in the chuck or a V type cutter for a V. The work would have to get over or under the cutter or on the side. Or a flat cutter with the work tilted for a 45. For the male end just use angle blocks or sine bar or tilting vice. Really you dont even need a milling att for that. Just set the work to the right height and run the cross slide back and forth to move the stock against the cutter.

I have done none of this, just thinking in type
 
Well a lathe can be used to make a lathe as the old saying goes. So any tool you need can me made on a lathe.
 
You can make a simple fixture for turning square stock round by drilling & tapping the sidewall of a piece of pipe or heavy wall tubing or solid stock about 4" or so long, then boring it to the diagonal of the square stock your working with. Slide the square in tighten the set screw without fooling with the chuck. Works great if you have a some to do and only have a 3 jaw chuck.
 
I am going to make this simple as I believe in the "KISS" theory. In using a lathe you are only limited by your own imagination.

"Billy G"
 
Others that can be found in this forum:

Collet chucks, spider chucks, t-nuts for the compound, graduated collars/dials, tool posts, threading bits...
 
.This is a simple tool,turn a 60° angle on one end of a round stock.Bore the other end with a center drill with a 60°angle. When you need to bore or otherwise set up a work piece to an exact center,or even an off center then this comes in handy.Install a dead or live center in the tail stock.
Put your part that has a center punch point at your intended center in the 4 jaw chuck.
The point on the tool rests in the center punch,the dead center in the TS goes into the other end.
Mount an indicator on the tool holder.Turn the chuck by hand .Adjust the part til it is close enough to use the indicator.The indicator is read near the turned point. When the indicator reads the same at 12:00,3:00,6:00,and 9:00 the part is centered in relation to the punch mark.
I make it go a bit faster by running the TS up to the punch mark first.I adjust the part to the dead center.Then I use the tool and indicator.
One other tip, if possible do not punch the center mark,use a center drill instead and drill a small point instead of the punch.I found it more accurate that center punching.
There are similar tools that have a spring loaded center.I have never used one myself.
mike
 
Rotating tailstock Centre ("live centre"), tailstock Chuck on bearings, rotary broach holder to cut hex sockets etc., tool height gauge, toolpost grinding / milling / drilling spindle, the tool catalogue's your oyster :)
 
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