Keyed chuck repair

[TXShelbyman]

I have a cheap Chinese no name chuck that came with the RF-45 clone I purchased. I tried using it but noticed that it would not tighten enough to keep a drill bit from spinning in it. I disassembled it but didn't notice anything broken. (came apart really easily) I reassembled it and it does the same thing. The only thing I can figure is it is so far out of spec that the sleeve is slipping around the split nut. It is a shame to have to toss it as it is a 1/16" to 3/4" and not that old. (plus I don't have one that large) Does anyone have any ideas how I might repair it. Thanks!

 

[mikey]

Yup, repair it by buying an Albrecht or Jacobs 14N or larger Super Chuck.

I'm not being entirely facetious. You need a fairly accurate drill chuck on the mill because quite often you will use it to drill precision holes for fasteners or to start a bore. If you have a good chuck, you can use that; if not, use a collet.

 

[TXShelbyman]

Funny you should say that. When I purchased my lathe it came with a bunch of extra parts. A 2' X 3' bin and a pallet full of stuff. In it was a Jacobs #14 I just dissembled and cleaned. Over the weekend I was going through it and found an Albrecht 130 J6. It seems in pretty good shape. I knocked out the arbor with a wedge and now need to order an R8- J6 arbor. I am debating dissembling it and cleaning. The Jacobs was easy, I have never disabled an Albrecht. The box contained two armature chucks and a number of other chucks. I do have another large keyed chuck but it lo0k like the arbor is integral, maybe an MT2. I have a bunch of stuff I have yet to identify. It also came with a bunch of accessories to a cylindrical grinder buy I cant identify the manufacturer.

 

[Mikesal]

I bought a cheap Chinese 1/2 chuck for the lathe a few years ago & almost immediately it got tight spots in it (loosening or tightening) It felt like it had metal shavings in it. I finally took it apart & found that bits of the threads were crumbling off (junk metal). Some things you just can't substitute "good" for "cheap".

 

[mikey]

... I have never disabled an Albrecht.

Maybe this will help: http://www.machinistblog.com/rebuilding-an-albrecht-drill-chuck/

There are some good import chucks, or at least that is the opinion of some of the guys here who I respect. The one sold by PM is reportedly one of them. However, an Albrecht is pretty much the gold standard for keyless chucks and the Jacobs Super Chuck (made in the USA version) holds that place for keyed chucks. Both will last for decades with proper use and care, and they will hold their accuracy if you use them right.

 

[Bob Korves]

Maybe this will help: http://www.machinistblog.com/rebuilding-an-albrecht-drill-chuck/

There are some good import chucks, or at least that is the opinion of some of the guys here who I respect. The one sold by PM is reportedly one of them. However, an Albrecht is pretty much the gold standard for keyless chucks and the Jacobs Super Chuck (made in the USA version) holds that place for keyed chucks. Both will last for decades with proper use and care, and they will hold their accuracy if you use them right.

Mike is too self-effacing to tell you the entire story. He wrote that article, and it is VERY good. His tutorial is the best one out there on reconditioning Albrecht chucks, and better than the advice from Albrecht...

 

[mikey]

Mike is too self-effacing to tell you the entire story. He wrote that article, and it is VERY good. His tutorial is the best one out there on reconditioning Albrecht chucks, and better than the advice from Albrecht...

Thank you, Bob!

 

[3strucking]

just picked up a albrecht to use on the mill. I have a rotor brand that i use on the lathe.

 

[Ken from ontario]

I have a cheap Chinese no name chuck that came with the RF-45 clone I purchased. I tried using it but noticed that it would not tighten enough to keep a drill bit from spinning in it. I disassembled it but didn't notice anything broken. (came apart really easily) I reassembled it and it does the same thing. The only thing I can figure is it is so far out of spec that the sleeve is slipping around the split nut. It is a shame to have to toss it as it is a 1/16" to 3/4" and not that old. (plus I don't have one that large) Does anyone have any ideas how I might repair it. Thanks!

I have a couple of those cheap chucks, their quality is just as good as the Allen key set or the cheap screwdrivers with red handles that came with the machines I bought, there are lots of videos on youtube on how to dismantle and clean/ reassemble a Jacobs chuck but I doubt you could actually fix an out of spec Chinese chuck, you will most likely get frustrated with it's performance.
Albrecht chucks seems to be the favourite on this site for a good reason ,they are dependable ,function as they should every time.

 

[Bob Korves]

I have a couple of those cheap chucks, their quality is just as good as the Allen key set or the cheap screwdrivers with red handles that came with the machines I bought, there are lots of videos on youtube on how to dismantle and clean/ reassemble a Jacobs chuck but I doubt you could actually fix an out of spec Chinese chuck, you will most likely get frustrated with it's performance.
Albrecht chucks seems to be the favourite on this site for a good reason ,they are dependable ,function as they should every time.

Albrecht chucks are fine pieces of equipment for lots of work, but they do not do everything well. For instance, they only work in a clockwise direction. Also, doing heavy work or jamming a drill in a hole can cause a tightly jammed drill chuck, which takes effort to undo and can damage the chuck. A key type chuck or other type drill holder will still be needed or desired for certain work. To me, the combination of the Albrecht and a Jacobs USA made ball bearing chuck is a perfect companion set. Unfortunately, to have those sets in different capacities, with different arbors to fit your various machines, can get expensive quickly. I have never done left hand drilling on a lathe, so the Albrecht with a MT taper does the job there. The mill is better off using short straight shank arbors in my opinion, much easier to sneak the drill chuck in and out of a collet than to pull and replace a R8 or other spindle taper arbor tool. The mill needs to turn both ways, and smaller and larger drills are used on it. I use at least half a dozen different size, brand, and type chucks regularly on my mill, lucky to have them around. A drill press also pretty much needs a dedicated chuck that works in both directions, so I really prefer a keyed chuck there as well. A drill press can also get by with a lower grade chuck, within reason. Cheap drill chucks are continually frustrating...