Is This Wired For 110 Or 220?

do you have 240 volts on the 2 black wires V and U when it is running.
art B

The unused red wire is part of the reversing in 110 VAC low voltage, in High voltage is is not used. but could still be hot .

the readings need to be wire to wire not wire to ground.

Art B
 
The unused red wire is part of the reversing in 110 VAC low voltage, in High voltage is is not used. but could still be hot .

the readings need to be wire to wire not wire to ground.

Art B

Yes, I have 240v across U and V.

Tom S.
 
Just for reference, when you're measuring 240 Volts if you go to ground you could be reading the voltage flowing through the motor from one of the phase wires and not necessarily both of the phase conductors. Same as checking for a blown fuse. If the B phase fuse is out then the A phase power will be on the top and bottom of the A fuse to ground and the bottom of the B phase to ground. Check for a blown fuse from top to bottom on the same fuse. Zero volts means the fuse is good and system voltage indicates a blown fuse.
Can you hear the centrifugal open and close when you start and stop the motor? It must be closed or the motor won't start. I'm not sure what would happen if if doesn't open at 75% speed. I know the start winding should only be energized less than a minute or it will burn out.
 
Just for reference, when you're measuring 240 Volts if you go to ground you could be reading the voltage flowing through the motor from one of the phase wires and not necessarily both of the phase conductors. Same as checking for a blown fuse. If the B phase fuse is out then the A phase power will be on the top and bottom of the A fuse to ground and the bottom of the B phase to ground. Check for a blown fuse from top to bottom on the same fuse. Zero volts means the fuse is good and system voltage indicates a blown fuse.
Can you hear the centrifugal open and close when you start and stop the motor? It must be closed or the motor won't start. I'm not sure what would happen if if doesn't open at 75% speed. I know the start winding should only be energized less than a minute or it will burn out.

Thanks for the fuse testing info. As you can tell I don't know much about electricity other than it hurts when you touch it.

I can't hear the centrifugal switch when I start the motor because of the the contactors making up. I've run the motor for extended periods with no problems. It just doesn't have much torque.

Tom S.
 
You could wire the motor direct to the 240 supply and test the motor torque. That would at least determine whether the problem is in the motor or the control panel.
 
You could wire the motor direct to the 240 supply and test the motor torque. That would at least determine whether the problem is in the motor or the control panel.

Sounds like a good idea. Which motor wires do I connect to the black wire and which to the white wire? I've got the green wire dialed in. LOL

Tom S.
 
Tom check that you really have 220 volts between motor wires #1 and #4, Then check that #2 and #3 are connected together, per the diagram. One of those two things must be wrong, it seems to me. That motor should have tons of torque. Be careful too, of course.
Mark S.
 
I should like to mention, the absolute safest way to troubleshoot a problem like this would be with the power completely OFF, using an ohmmeter or continuity tester, lifting wires one by one and taking readings. I don't like to recommend testing live circuits and in fact I try to avoid doing it myself even though I have worked with electricity for years. My Dad dropped a screwdriver across 220 once when I was a kid, and it really made an impression on me. It certainly made an impression on him LOL
Mark S.
 
Tom check that you really have 220 volts between motor wires #1 and #4, Then check that #2 and #3 are connected together, per the diagram. One of those two things must be wrong, it seems to me. That motor should have tons of torque. Be careful too, of course.
Mark S.

I'll check it in the morning.

Tom S.
 
I
You could wire the motor direct to the 240 supply and test the motor torque. That would at least determine whether the problem is in the motor or the control panel.

It appears that the start circuit wiring is coming from the lathe wiring it may not start going direct to the motor with 220, if it doesn't. Do not leave the power on for more then a second or you could burn out the run winding.

I have made the assumption that you have tried the lathe in both directions and that it starts both ways.

If three and two are not connected you would not get any movement but just a "humm" from the start winding.

Just a question, what speed are you trying to run this at , is it belt driven and is it possible that the lack of torque is slippage in the belts etc. From everything you have shown it looks to me that it should be OK. Electrically Maybe ULMA DOC will see something we are missing, you might PM him and ask him to look at it. This may need a new set of eyes.

Art B
 
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