Is This Wired For 110 Or 220?

TomS

Active User
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
May 20, 2013
Messages
1,906
I've had my lathe for several years and have been running it on 110v since I got it. As I'm not electrically inclined I asked a neighbor to help me wire my lathe for 220v operation. The wiring went without a hitch except that it had more power running on 110v than it does on 220v. With a shaft in the chuck and the lathe running about 300 rpm I can grip the shaft and slow down the rpm considerably. Obviously this lack of power also shows up when turning. My neighbor swears up and down it's wired for 220v.

I've attached the wiring diagrams for the main control box and for the motor terminal box. The picture is the low/high (110/220) voltage wiring diagram on the inside of the motor terminal box cover.

I could start probing around with my multimeter but I thought I would consult the resident electrical gurus before making matters worse.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Tom S.

20161018_125842_resized.jpg
 

Attachments

  • Lathe Electrical Box Diagram.pdf
    11 KB · Views: 25
  • Lathe Motor Terminal Box.pdf
    17.1 KB · Views: 29
We'll need to see how the motor wires are connected to determine if it's connected properly for the voltage. Looks like the reversing switch will also need to be reconnected for 220 volts.
Did you rewire the motor control box?
 
Last edited:
We'll need to see how the motor wires are connected to determine if it's connected properly for the voltage. Looks like the reversing switch will also need to be reconnected for 220 volts.
Did you rewire the motor control box?

Thanks for taking a look. The motor lead connections are shown in the attachment "Lathe Motor Terminal Box". Not sure what you mean by the reversing switch needs to be reconnected for 220v. The motor runs in forward and reverse as it's wired now. The only wiring I've done is I recently replaced the left side contactor. What the previous owner did I have no idea. I looked at the electrical box diagram and realized the one I attached is for 110v operation. The only difference is the transformer inputs are H1 and H4 for 220v operation which is how it is currently wired. The X1 and X3 terminals feed the contactor coils.

Let me know if you need more info.

Tom S.
 
did he connect wire 2 and 3 he may only have one winding running, we really need to see how the motor itself is wired and the reversing switch will need to be rewired,
 
did he connect wire 2 and 3 he may only have one winding running, we really need to see how the motor itself is wired and the reversing switch will need to be rewired,

Here's a picture of the motor terminal block. The attachment in my original post has the corresponding diagram. I'll do my best to explain how the wires are connected.

The black wire connected to the upper left terminal goes to "U" on the terminal strip in the main electrical box. The yellow wire directly below is the #3 motor wire. The red wire below the yellow wire goes to "M5" on the terminal strip. The black wire connected to the lower left terminal goes to "V" on the terminal strip. The wire connected to the upper right terminal is the #4 motor wire. The blue and red motor wires below the white wire are #A2 (Red) and #2 (Blue). The third (Red) wire down on the right is #A1 motor wire. The black wire connected to the lower right terminal is the #A1 motor wire. Did this answer your questions?
20161018_125825_resized.jpg
 
it appears to me from the wiring diagrams from the lathe and the picture of the motor to be correct, do you have 240 volts on the 2 black wires V and U when it is running that should be 240 volts if not that could be the problem. The diagram for the lathe electrical box doesn't show the switching that is going on so that part is a guess. Also insulate the unconnected wire as it could be hot from the internal switching

art B
 
it appears to me from the wiring diagrams from the lathe and the picture of the motor to be correct, do you have 240 volts on the 2 black wires V and U when it is running that should be 240 volts if not that could be the problem. The diagram for the lathe electrical box doesn't show the switching that is going on so that part is a guess. Also insulate the unconnected wire as it could be hot from the internal switching

art B

I'll check the voltage in the morning and report back. For info terminals 1 thru 5 feed the front control panel which has the on/off switch, jog, for/rev switch, and power on indicator light.

Thanks,

Tom S.
 
Motor connections look correct. I'd like to see the 220v control panel diagram.
 
Motor connections look correct. I'd like to see the 220v control panel diagram.

The lathe didn't come with a manual so the only 220/110 volt diagram I have is the one attached to the original post. I made it up to have as a reference when I changed out the contactor.

Tom S.
 
Checked voltages at all the terminals in the motor pecker head. First I verified that I had 220v coming into the main electrical box at terminals R and S. With the power switch off these are the readings I got in the pecker head:

110v between upper left terminal and A1
110v between second terminal down on left and A1
No power between third terminal down on left and any of the four terminals on the right
110v between bottom left and A1

With the power switch on I get the same readings. I also took voltage readings with power to the forward switch and to the reverse switch (terminals 4 and 5). If that is helpful information I will post it.

My gut is telling me that the disconnected red wire (M6 at the terminal strip) needs to be connected to the second terminal down on the left side. Again, I'm not an electrician just saying that this wire should be connected somewhere.

Tom S.
 
Back
Top