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Vibration? Okay, I'm leaning a little towards Ken's earlier comment. I thought we were discussing a Logan 200, so where does the Harley fit in?:D
This may be the time to look for a project manager. :tranquility:

You guys are my project managers! :) So far you guys have kept the cost below $10,000... at least as far as you know.

We are but I'm preparing for the Leblond Regal 15 x 54 I need to get back. I had one and sold it before I had time to use or learn how to use it. 10 years ago just before I moved into this house. I'm not sure what I was thinking when I sold that. I realize the project "subject" doesn't justify doing all these things to it. It's a 70 year old tiny lathe. But it's a consciousness captivity machine I'm after. It's wonderful you guys are humoring my ideas. I really do appreciate it.

No Harley to be found here. I quit riding on the street along time ago. Did I mention I sold some motorcycles when I sold that lathe? lol

Anyway, back to scraping and leveling. I watched part of a video today on calibrating levels. oxtoolsco. Very interesting that it can be done pretty much on any surface level or not. Great instruction there. The taking the twist out of the lathe makes total sense before scraping in anything. Since that would throw off any reference points you may have had.

Paul
 
IMG_0376.JPG IMG_0377.JPG
I like that little 4" level as it tucks right into the dovetail. The base of the compound and its mating surface were scraped for contact.
Parallels are needed to span the ways and dovetails.
In the second pic is a parting tool with red tape on the handle. Thats what I used to scrape the compound with.
Just saved you twenty bucks.
OK, I was desperate.
You mentioned a faceplate. Checked mine and the surface that mates to the spindle had maybe 25% contact so I scraped it as well.
It's all a amateur job but when I can make a consistent flaking pattern it will be torn down for improvements.
Before starting, any oil I put to the ways just ran right out. After scraping I couldn't get oil into it till after I made an air outlet.
 
I like that little 4" level as it tucks right into the dovetail. The base of the compound and its mating surface were scraped for contact.
Parallels are needed to span the ways and dovetails.
In the second pic is a parting tool with red tape on the handle. Thats what I used to scrape the compound with.
Just saved you twenty bucks.
OK, I was desperate.
You mentioned a faceplate. Checked mine and the surface that mates to the spindle had maybe 25% contact so I scraped it as well.
It's all a amateur job but when I can make a consistent flaking pattern it will be torn down for improvements.
Before starting, any oil I put to the ways just ran right out. After scraping I couldn't get oil into it till after I made an air outlet.

The scraping tool I have for practice is a file that Bob helped me sharpen. Your parting tool scraper is in good company. :)

How many passes do you think it took to scrape down the compound? On yours you did it all with scraping no other machining to get it closer first?
Or did you mill or grind them first?
 
Send it to Rustrp,
He doesn't have anything else better to do. Oh wait a minute, did I say that.:oops2:
Well it can't be said that I don't look for a challenge..:D

In this case the quantity of projects comes into question. I know of at least three; There's a surface plate stand and mount, a BP top-end overhaul and the Logan 200 10" in progress. First, I think we should add leveling the garage floor (float it smooth) and add a unique one of a kind epoxy covering. They can even add machine decals, any metrology tools, formulas, into the mix just to show the level of H-M addiction.

http://elitecrete.com/
 
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How many passes?
I don't even know how many days it took. Arthritic makes me slow and not knowing what I was doing could have had some small affect.

Would like to have machined all surfaces flat and square but the lathe was so far out that strength might have been affected and I didn't have the strength
to scrape all those surfaces.
Yea! Its that bad. So I just got the dovetails lined up to the edge a bit better, flat and even.
The factory clearly machined the lathe with little reguard to the standard reference points and didn't bother
to keep surfaces on the same plane. Some of the problems are probably due to green castings.

Don't let anything scare you off.
Read, Learn, Prepare your tooling. Watch for tool deals while you study and plan.
Measure and record your compound readings on drawings prior to starting.
The results will be magic and something to be proud of.
Then you'll want to start scraping everything.
 
...........................add leveling the garage floor (float it smooth) and add a unique one of a kind epoxy covering. They can even add machine decals, any metrology tools, formulas, into the mix just to show the level of H-M addiction.

http://elitecrete.com/
I worked at a facility up in Huntsville, TX (Place didn't have razor wire fence around the facility, that place was down the street from us) Management came in and had about 25,000 sq/ft of this done to the shop floor. It was nice and expensive! Was like $125 sq/ft.

We really getting off topic now!!!
 
Well it can't be said that I don't look for a challenge..:D

In this case the quantity of projects comes into question. I know of at least three; There's a surface plate stand and mount, a BP top-end overhaul and the Logan 200 10" in progress. First, I think we should add leveling the garage floor (float it smooth) and add a unique one of a kind epoxy covering. They can even add machine decals, any metrology tools, formulas, into the mix just to show the level of H-M addiction.

http://elitecrete.com/

I've got superior OCD for my H-M addictions. The BP "complete" head rebuild is 98% all I have to do is mount the motor. I changed the motor bearings a couple of days ago. That is an extremely exhaustive one. Which I can tie into scraping here. I was looking at the column and it still has scraping on the flats. Pretty much visible the entire length. But I would imagine that's because its not getting any contact wear.

I am a living challenge. :) If you guys want to add something to the list I was considering adding a 3 car(8 machine) garage to my house in addition to the 2 car. Which will require removing the dual septic tanks and connecting into the street sewer line which is 11ft in the ground....and my house has brick on the outside so that would have to be removed on a 1/4 of the house...and a new curb cut and entry into the property from the street made :D
 
How many passes?
I don't even know how many days it took. Arthritic makes me slow and not knowing what I was doing could have had some small affect.

Would like to have machined all surfaces flat and square but the lathe was so far out that strength might have been affected and I didn't have the strength
to scrape all those surfaces.
Yea! Its that bad. So I just got the dovetails lined up to the edge a bit better, flat and even.
The factory clearly machined the lathe with little reguard to the standard reference points and didn't bother
to keep surfaces on the same plane. Some of the problems are probably due to green castings.

Don't let anything scare you off.
Read, Learn, Prepare your tooling. Watch for tool deals while you study and plan.
Measure and record your compound readings on drawings prior to starting.
The results will be magic and something to be proud of.
Then you'll want to start scraping everything.

I won't be scared of it. I'm thoroughly familiar with Meloxicam been on it for several years. I always know when it's going to rain! :)

Reading, learning, preparing and listening! The recording of measurements should be fun There are a lot to make note of. However, my drawing skills are substandard at best.
 
For scraping in of the compound and cross slide etc what grade of plate am I going to need? Will grade B work? Or should I get at least an A? I've been chatting with someone selling a Starrett pink 24 x 24 x 4" Grade B. He says it's new but been in storage for 10 years. Still has original packaging. If I can buy it and get it home for 500$ or less should I do it? I know it's plenty large enough.

Paul
 
For scraping in of the compound and cross slide etc what grade of plate am I going to need? Will grade B work? Or should I get at least an A? I've been chatting with someone selling a Starrett pink 24 x 24 x 4" Grade B. He says it's new but been in storage for 10 years. Still has original packaging. If I can buy it and get it home for 500$ or less should I do it? I know it's plenty large enough.

Paul
A used surface plate has no grade unless it has a current certification and you know first hand how it was cared for since then. It is only a grave marker until it is calibrated and certified to meet the tolerances of the grade. Surface plates bought used can only considered to be cores, not usable tools, at least in the strict sense. They are complete unknowns, unless you have a certified and calibrated autocollimator, and a repeat-o-meter, both tested to do good work, and the acquired skills to get good test results. I bought my surface plate in known suspect condition, and had it calibrated and certified. It looked wonderfully flat. Chasing a tenths indicator mounted on a surface gage around the plate told me essentially nothing useful. When it was calibrated it initially tested at .003" out over the 18x24" plate, hollow in the middle. That is the Grand Canyon in surface plate land. Pretty, Starrett pink, and shiny do not equal flat. Again, ALL used surface plates are just cores, unknown quantities, until proven otherwise. I paid $50 for the core, and about $100 to have it calibrated to grade AA and certified to grade A. If I had paid more for the core, it might have been better to just buy a new plate.

Paul, grade B is workshop grade, for testing things and doing layout on the shop floor. It is also probably accurate enough to be a master for your lathe, if it is in current calibration, not after 10 years of storage. At this point the accuracy would need to be verified ($$$).
 
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