Indicol upgrade

[woodchucker]

I have an indicol holder that I modified to fit my Clausing 8520.. I like it as I don't have to remove the tool to center on a hole or bore, or pin.
But I have issues with it. The first drop bar can cause a twist on the side away from the clamp. This can cause a considerable waste of time trying to get things lined up. Every time I get burned by it, I think this could be better. I looked at the Edge Tech holder, and it has that licked by using square bar and not letting it rotate. But it also lacks in that the indicator holder requires a tool to attach. I don't change tools often, but I don't like leaving my Mitutoyo flapping in the wind.. I like to keep it in the tool box to protect it. Has anyone done an upgrade to the indicol so it doesn't swing at the first joint? Looking for ideas. I think it would be easy to just go to all flat hardware vs round and still be good. But I won't get the length adjustment that the round bar allows. What say you?

 

[OTmachine]

Is yours an “Indicol” brand one or a knock off? There is a huge difference. Just sayin.

 

[woodchucker]

Mine's a real indicol.. Got it from the son of a machinist who passed away. Marked indicol

 

[mmcmdl]

Jeff , I have a few indicols somewhere and can say I hardly ever used them . Years ago I made up bar sets which hold swivel shafts and use Bestest indicators to find reference zero . Of course I have to remove the tool but when setting up the tool is removed anyways . For small holes , I just use the indicator with the swivel .

 

[OTmachine]

Could you add a set screw to lock the shaft? I also like to use ball swivels for small holes.

 

[ChazzC]

I have two "Indicol's" one an ENCO knock-off I got 30+ years ago and the other from HHIP, which I use occasionally. My preferred holder is one of my "Jig Borer style" (per Stefan, I just insert mine in a collet or chuck, but what Stefan shows may be the best combination for versatility), shown on the left as it is simpler, works on my scale of projects and makes it easier to see the dial on the DTI:


If I don't need a high level of precision, I'll use a cone or pointer (center) to pick up a center mark or hole. I can't remember where or when I picked up the gadget on the right, but it does work reasonably well for larger work.

 

[woodchucker]

I already have a Noga type arm with a 3/8 shaft. But I like the ability to keep working without changing tools. So I like the indicol, but don't like the fact that it goes off center too easily. I could put a screw like suggested, but would have to change the snugs, and also put a flat on the shaft.
A flat plate replacement seems much easier.
My mitutoyo did not have a dovetail, I added one... It's not on 2 sides, only parallel to the body. If it had one on the end 90 to the body I would still not use it. I'll do a little video of the problem. I'll probably just make a quick fix using a flat. The edge does look good though.. but I'll stick with what I have, we are machinists right? we should be able to fix what we don't like, or feel can be better.

 

[woodchucker]

Here's what happens, the snug allows twisting, and it makes it possible to be on a pin or hole, but rotate it around and it's far from where it should be. If it's twisted to the correct position, it will be correct on both sides..

 

[woodchucker]

ok, sometimes you have to take a step back and look at the situation again.
I started looking, and then thought, maybe the previous owner replaced the rod.
Both snugs have screws ... hmmm.
the rod was hardened, so I put it on the surface grinder and ground a flat.
That will keep it from rotating...
I think this will keep everything in check..