Index Model 645 Mill

I've used every thing from cardboard boxes to plastic butter bowels with their lids to the little plastic containers you get from Kentucky Fried Chicken to store bolts nut in. The butter bowels can be marked on top with a Sharpie with it's contents. Like you said, the freezer zip lock bags work nice too! BTW- the parts to my 645 mill, I had carried them thru three moves before I was able to get it back together! Carried most of the loose parts in 5 gallon buckets! Didn't loose anything in those moves. Now, I have two lathes mostly tore down, working to get them back together.
 
Made a replacement ram adjustment shaft. I milled the flats with an end mill in the lathe by holding the shaft in a boring bar holder. Sure made me wish I had a milling machine...;)
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T.J.,

At least yours wasn't frozen up like mine was. I hate to beat on anything to get it out, actually, I had to grab it with a pair of vise grips and twist and pull at the same time to get mine lose. And that was after I got the chain loose and removed. Oh, if you need any of the short roll pins that are used to secure the chain, I have a bag of 99 of them. At the time Fastenal would only sell me a full bag of a 100 when I only needed 1 pin.

I'm glad I didn't twist on the shaft and broke as it happen on you. But going into it, I knew that that wasn't going to free the slide to move on mine. It was frozen up with rust and crud. Took lots of soaking with oil and such. I cleaned and honed the way surfaces of all rust before attempting the get the ram unstuck. Had to use a big 4 x 4 block and BIG persuasion tool to get the ram to move. Luckily, the way surfaces hidden were in good shape, very little rust. Once I move the ram as far as I felt safe to move it, I cleaned and oiled the way surfaces on the exposed end and force it back the other direction until it freed up. Once that was done, I fished the chain back under the ram and attached.

Ken
 
I'm behind on posting photos. ;-)

I reassembled the turret and ram to give me a way to lift the base. I got that much moved into my shop a couple weeks ago.
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Then I hit a snag on disassembling the knee elevation shaft. The collar that the hand crank engages, was froze up something fierce. Heating it and soaking it with Kroil were unsuccessful. There was only a 3/32 inch gap between it and the measurement dial, so I couldn't put a puller directly on it. I wound up making a clamp that would grab it and give me something to latch onto with a bearing puller.
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It was a hard pull the whole way. I got it to the end of the shaft and that gave me enough room to remove the socket head screws behind the dial that held the bearing flange to the knee. I could then pull the whole shaft out (after removing the bevel gear from the other end).
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I then pressed the collar the rest of the way off of the shaft. There was some scoring on the shaft where the collar had spun at some point. That was what made the removal so difficult.
 
Here's some pics of the clamp I made and a close up of the scoring on the shaft
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The clamp idea is great. Looks like your shaft needs a little love. Maybe braze it and turn it smooth.
 
Oh Yeah, your supposed to remove the set screw from the beveled gear before removing the shaft.
 
I got the knee put back on Saturday. This time, I put the straps on the front and back of the knee, rather than the sides. This kept it a lot more level. Right now, it's still suspended with the hoist since I'm still waiting on the new thrust bearing for the screw to arrive. The crank shaft is installed with new bearings.
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I'll try to post the numbers of the replacement bearings that I use in case someone else could use the info. For the knee crank shaft:
Outboard = Koyo 6203
Inboard = Peer 6003

Slowly but surely...:)
 
I was making notes for myself last night about each zerk on the saddle lubricates, since it's not very apparent on some of them once everything is assembled. Then it occurred to me that this info might be of value to someone who hasn't disassembled their mill. So here are some annotated photos of the saddle with each zerk labeled. If it says "way", that means the horizontal surface (when the machine is assembled). "Dovetail" means the angled surface.
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Sorry about the cluttered background. In the first two photos, the saddle is sitting vertically with its front side up. For now, I'm replacing all of the zerks. I may install an oiling system later.
 
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