I'm Sick Of Spring Loaded Center Punches

What are your new brackets for?

As far a automatic (spring loaded) center punches, there is definitely a technique required to use them. One of the most important factors, IMO, is to be working on a very stable platform.
 
Used to be able to center punch crossed scribed lines within 0.005" all day long. Eyes were a bit better way back then.
 
Good point Larry, I had to get a magnifying glass out to line these holes up, that's with my reading glasses. But mostly I think its just the lack of quality in those spring loaded punches. You can run the tip down the scribed line but they always seem to punch the hole off center. I bought like 3 of the things and just gave up.
 
Has anybody used one of those optical center punches?? Always thought I might get one to try out.
My Starrett spring loaded punches seem to work quite well. I first hit the mark with one of the little ones, followed by re-punching with a larger one.
I can't claim to run a high precision shop, but I usually hit the mark within a couple of thou.

Chuck the grumpy old guy
 
For precision center punching, I use a two part process. First, I use a punch made from a used chainsaw file with a tip ground the about a 30 deg. angle and a needle point. The sharp angle and fine point make it easier to find the center of the scribe lines.

A light tap with a hammer is sufficient to make a point which you can find with a regular center punch. If the punch misses the desired location, you can walk the punch mark over by angling the punch in the desired direction and restriking. I then use a regular center punch to make a sufficiently large enough mark for drilling.

If making your own punch, make sure that you anneal the struck end to prevent the possibility of shattering the end of the punch. A chainsaw file is good for two punches.

Bob Center Punch .JPG
 
Gunrunner you need to order a set of these for the Z axis hand crank. Bill did you just spit coffee on your monitor? :rofl:

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