I hate the vice clamp on my 4x6 bandsaw.

xalky

Registered
Registered
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
2,220
I hate the vice clamp on my 4x6 bandsaw.
a8d56251-2967-445c-8a14-ee5acbf0e07b_zps9c68e668.jpg
I can't cut small pieces on it because of the floppy moveable jaw. I also think that the stationary, protractor jaw should be closer to the blade. Also that stationary jaw should be pushed back further to be able to use the maximum width of the blade opening, right close to the guide rollers. Plus, the clamping surface edge should be closer to the blade. Has anyone here tackled this problem? I don't want to reinvent the wheel, if someone else has already come up with a solution to this issue. I'm seriously thinking about making a whole new set of clamping surfaces for this piece of crap engineering debacle. Anyone?


Marcel

a8d56251-2967-445c-8a14-ee5acbf0e07b_zps9c68e668.jpg
 
Most common approach is to make some removable jaws that bolt on that you cut to length once attached. Halligan142 here (same on youtube) has a little video series on fixing up his saw.

You can also attach a jack screw to the other side to even out the jaws. (I just put another piece of stock on the other side)
 
I hate the vice clamp on my 4x6 bandsaw.
a8d56251-2967-445c-8a14-ee5acbf0e07b_zps9c68e668.jpg
I can't cut small pieces on it because of the floppy moveable jaw. I also think that the stationary, protractor jaw should be closer to the blade. Also that stationary jaw should be pushed back further to be able to use the maximum width of the blade opening, right close to the guide rollers. Plus, the clamping surface edge should be closer to the blade. Has anyone here tackled this problem? I don't want to reinvent the wheel, if someone else has already come up with a solution to this issue. I'm seriously thinking about making a whole new set of clamping surfaces for this piece of crap engineering debacle. Anyone?


Marcel

Marcel

How about putting a pin in the movable jaw that will keep it from rotating when you have a setup like this? Is there any thickness of the nut under it where you could put a hole?

I'm sure you could put an extension on the stationary jaw to get it closer to the blade. Face off this side, and drill and tap to put on some material.

a8d56251-2967-445c-8a14-ee5acbf0e07b_zps9c68e668.jpg
 
I run into that often but haven't found the time to make new jaws, YET.
I usually forget until the next time comes along.

What I do is use some C channel on both sides and a jack/spacer in the back.
 
Google "4x6 bandsaw mods" and you will have more mods than you can get around to - including the probs that you have (they are common throughout these wonderful little saws)
 
Google "4x6 bandsaw mods" and you will have more mods than you can get around to - including the probs that you have (they are common throughout these wonderful little saws)

One of my jobs in the first shop I worked in was cutting stock. Even the larger saws have that problem. I usually used the short stubby off-fall as a spacer.
 
I hate the vice clamp on my 4x6 bandsaw.
a8d56251-2967-445c-8a14-ee5acbf0e07b_zps9c68e668.jpg
I can't cut small pieces on it because of the floppy moveable jaw. I also think that the stationary, protractor jaw should be closer to the blade. Also that stationary jaw should be pushed back further to be able to use the maximum width of the blade opening, right close to the guide rollers. Plus, the clamping surface edge should be closer to the blade. Has anyone here tackled this problem? I don't want to reinvent the wheel, if someone else has already come up with a solution to this issue. I'm seriously thinking about making a whole new set of clamping surfaces for this piece of crap engineering debacle. Anyone?


Marcel


Marcel--just make two flat plates approx 3/8-to1/2 " thick longer than your current jaws--then thread a 1/2" hole in the back plate to use as an adjusting bolt to keep the plates even with your piece of metal to cut--then just slide them up close to the blade and after adjusting the rear bolt tighten up the vise on your product--and make the cut--you can just hang them on the side of the saw until you need them again---most of our tools require a few jigs to make them handier for special tasks-----Dave ----:thinking:

a8d56251-2967-445c-8a14-ee5acbf0e07b_zps9c68e668.jpg
 
Marcell,
Go to the 4X6 group and look at the files section for a vice mod that will allow you to make very small cuts accurately on you machine. I cant remember the author, but it has been done and photos taken of the mod and it works very nicely for exactly the issue you are having. If you cant find it PM me and I will find a link for you,.

Bob
 
I forgot to add that the C channel gives 2 more contact points on short round stock to help keep it from rotating during the cut.
 
Awesome guys. Thanks. Good...Then I don't have to reinvent the wheel.

Bob. Thanks for pointing me out to the 4x6 bandsaw sticky. I didn't even know it was there! I typically hit the "new posts" button, I don't pay much attention to the categories.

Here's the link guys if you don't already know where it is. http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/87-Show-us-your-HF-4x6-Bandsaw-Modifications!

This is gonna a be a fun little project. It looks like I don't have to make a whole new set of jaws after all, but I think I will make a new longer jaw for the moveable side so that I can implement that jack rod idea.


Marcel
 
Back
Top