Hypertherm Powermax 45XP - Is there a better plasma cutter for the $

[Holescreek]

I've had a PM30 for about 9 years. I don't use it a lot but it's never let me down.

 

[coherent]

One note is that the 45xp has a built in air cleaner/moisture filter. I added a motorguard to mine anyway for extra filtering and also built a water table. I had a torchmate for a number of years with a basic exhaust system and now that I've used the water table, would highly recommend using one. Only other real option is a really good downdraft and exhaust system. Difference using a water table in my experience is night and day as far as smoke and dust. Fairly simple to build and makes a huge difference. Like I said I've had a couple of the import plasma cutters and also did a lot of research prior to deciding on the new 45xp. Some of the lower cost cutters really peaked my interest based on reviews and price point, but once I started looking into the cost of consumables and their availability I was swayed away from them. Even the small local welding supply shops have hyperthern parts and consumables. The availability of consumables for some of the better known/rated imports (everlast etc) were non existent locally and pretty high priced online with limited purchase options. Those that did have reasonable consumables cause so much interference with their HF arc start that they were impractical for CNC use. I know because I've tried a couple of them. For example I have a cheap Lotos with arc start and a hand torch I use for cutting up skeletons or other basic hand use and it works great for that purpose... but fire it when the computer is running and the computer goes crazy and everything freezes up. I've tried grounding, etc, but it's just not worth the hassles, ruined cuts or questionable performance in my opinion vs having something that works like it should every time.

 

[coolidge]

Coherent can you give us some details on building a water table? I would not need more than say a 24x48 inch table. Or 24x48 CNC for that matter. I already have a couple of CAD/CAM programs. I would not think Plasma cutting CNC needs to be that accurate maybe +- .005 or even less. Maybe build your own CNC plasma and water table wouldn't be that expensive?

 

[f350ca]

I built a 50 x 50 water table CNC table a few years ago. Can't imagine going back to hand cutting. I bought an electronics package from Candcnc out of Texas and built the table from raw stock. Cut the racks on my shaper and run the axis on v rails. Might have $3000 invested. Use an old now Hypertherm Powermax 1000.

Greg

 

[Ironken]

I am balking at the total cost of getting into plasma cutting, $1,670 for the Hypertherm, then need an air compressor that puts out clean, dry, oil free air, then a cutting table with water unless I want to choke on the fumes, and after all that it seems to me CNC plasma cutting is really the most useful. I could hand cut some simple things with a straight edge etc but very quickly the kind of things I'd want to do would require CNC. So I'm going to check with a local CNC plasma cutting place to see how much they would charge to just cut my stuff out for me.

I am very pleased with my Quincy compressor. It's quiet (for a compressor) and made in 'Merica. As far as CNC plasma tables, I am hearing very good stuff about the JD2. If I hadn't bought a Miller plasma cutter a Hypertherm would have been my next choice without question. My buddy has used his Hypertherm as a punching bag for years and it still is choochin'.

 

[coherent]

I used 16ga CR steel for everything. Had the local steel supply cut the slats for me. I used 3 pieces of 1/4 square tubing (that raise the slat assembley off the tray bottom) and to them welded 3 pieces of angle that I slotted to hold the slats. The tray is 3 inches deep and the top of the slats when mounted are even with the top of the tray. The slat mounting assembly can be lifted out for cleaning. The individual parts aren't too heavy, so I can assemble/disassemble it alone. When installed it's a snug fit and there is no play, flex or movement of the tray or slats. As for the tray/pan itself, I notched the corners myself then took it to a local a/c & heating company that has a sheet metal shop and they bent the pan sides for me on a large brake for $20. Unless you have a large brake, there really isn't a way to bend the sides other than maybe scribing & partially cutting through and hand bending. I suppose you could weld the sides on, but paying to have them bent is the best option. I then TIG welding the corners and a "bung" (that I mounted a ball valve and hose connection to for draining) using stainless filler rod. The TIG makes it easy to weld and ensure no leaks. Actually a pretty simple build and easy to do. The table pan can be drained, the slats and slat mounts removed and the tray removed from the table. I can then put a spoil board and change to the router mount in about 15 minutes. There is no debris or water mess really. With my old machine without the water table, there was carbon dust on everything including the walls of the shop and everything in it. Water can splash a bit from the plasma air, but I mounted a 6" round disk on the torch above the tip and it eliminated that issue. Buy some Sodium Nitrite from amazon and put about a 1/4 lb in your water and it inhibits rusting

Watertable

• coherent
• May 14, 2017
• 2

Home built water table

I fabricated a torch mount that has neo magnets pressed into the aluminum mounting plate and aligned with 2 pins. Definitely a must in my opinion and will save you money in the event of a torch crash

Torch Mount

• coherent
• May 14, 2017

Magnetic Torch Mount