How to use a traveling steady?

savarin

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I'm having a bit of a problem coming to grips with how to use the traveling steady.
I havnt used it yet so this is more of a thought exercise to get it right.
Let us say we need to reduce the bar diameter in 4 passes and the steady contacts the bar in advance of the tool as my steady does.
Adjust the steady to contact the bar at the outer end, start turning to the required length and the steady supports the bar for the full length of the cut.
Return to the start, re-adjust the steady to contact the bar, start the second pass and all goes well till the steady reaches the end of the first pass and can continue no further stopping the second cut short.
The next two cuts will come up shorter still leaving a set of steps on the bar.
So is the method to cut the second pass till it can go no further , re-adjust the steady to now fit the original dia and continue the cut.
A problem I can see here is that it is too easy to get a step form from stopping then continuing the cut in this same spot but this can be done each time and take this small section into the design and part it off.
Does this seem correct or if not what have I got wrong.
 
I am not sure. But being we are thinking here..... If your that close to the chuck you could maybe just back the fingers off and finish it, then run them back in once your ready for the second
 
I can't adjust which side my follow rest sits according to my cutter. My follow rest site on the right side of the cutter. Well I guess I could adjust the tool post to change that. When I use the follow rest I like to cut LH. That way on the finish pass the follow rest will not mar the final finish.

But if I had to make a RH cut I would turn down a section close to the tailstock end while supported by a center if the stock was rough, has scale, etc. Then I would adjust the follow rest to that turn down section & proceed with the RH cut. So vise versa if your follow rest is on the left side of the cutter.


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+1 to what ChuckOrlando said. I really don't know, but this seems to make sense to me. I would try it and if it doesn't work, i would try something else.
 
I am not sure. But being we are thinking here..... If your that close to the chuck you could maybe just back the fingers off and finish it, then run them back in once your ready for the second

So what your saying is "yes". It seems the most logical method and just writing it out reaffirms that approach.
 
The only fly in the ointment when your steady is ahead of your cut is if the part is not concentric, like a gun barrel with bore off center with the OD. If the steady follows the cutter it's riding on a surface trued to center. As far as stepping the cut, just make all your passes end at the same spot (by backing off the steady at the shoulder for subsequent passes) then flip the piece around and get the rest from the other end. Of course, interference with shoulders is another problem that goes away with the rest following the cutter. Doesn't your compound have the range to go either way?
Ed P
 
Usually they are used to machine long slender shafts. I can't recall using one myself but one my buddies used one to cut a square thread lead screw. Use light cuts and readjust the guides before each cut. Some models have rollers to help reduce friction.
 
Charles,
If your work piece will fit through the spindle you could run the piece where the shoulder will be, up close to the chuck. Take your first cut without the steady, but supporting the free end with a centre, starting from Left to Right. once you have moved far enough away from the chuck, fit the steady and continue cutting until you complete, or run out of room at the TS end.
Return to the chuck end and repeat until you have got your required diameter.
Now, once you have got it down to size and if you need to remove the large OD knob remaining, you could have machined the length longer than required and cut off and waste the excess knob, or pass the work further into the spindle and close the chuck up to grip the small diameter, then turn the remaining unsupported knob down to size and save on the waste.
Hope thats clear?

Cheers Phil
 
I'm having a bit of a problem coming to grips with how to use the traveling steady.
I havnt used it yet so this is more of a thought exercise to get it right.
Let us say we need to reduce the bar diameter in 4 passes and the steady contacts the bar in advance of the tool as my steady does.
Adjust the steady to contact the bar at the outer end, start turning to the required length and the steady supports the bar for the full length of the cut.
Return to the start, re-adjust the steady to contact the bar, start the second pass and all goes well till the steady reaches the end of the first pass and can continue no further stopping the second cut short.
The next two cuts will come up shorter still leaving a set of steps on the bar.
So is the method to cut the second pass till it can go no further , re-adjust the steady to now fit the original dia and continue the cut.
A problem I can see here is that it is too easy to get a step form from stopping then continuing the cut in this same spot but this can be done each time and take this small section into the design and part it off.
Does this seem correct or if not what have I got wrong.

I haven't use travelling steady since I was an apprentice, A long time ago, but from memory, you can either lead with the steady if you're starting surface is good and true, or you can follow with the steady, which requires you also use a center to at least get started.

I generally try to avoid them and use a center if I'm machining the OD or a fixed steady when boring the ID. But obviously when machining a long slender piece a travelling steady might be needed.

In your scenario of reducing the dia in 4 passes, I'd be inclined to rough out first 3 passes in sections and then use the travelling steady to follow the final cut so as to avoid any steps.
 
Saverin, consider trying to adjust the position of the compound and the toolpost so that the toolbit is just ahead of the follow rest fingers. I just turned a straight barrel for a rimfire project from 1.1" down to .562" worked perfectly. For me it works better having the rest follow the tool as opposed to being in advance of the tool.
 
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