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How To Repair The Steering Head On My Motorcycle?

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rgray

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#31
I have removed a steering neck tube and re welded it back at a different angle. you could remove it and weld on a new replacement.
You would have to make your replacement, and could make it heavier walled or from better material.
Lots of measurements need to be done first of course.
 

malmac

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#32
Russ

You are right that a headanectomy would be a possibility but I am going to make that a last resort option.


mal
 

hermetic

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#33
Calculate by how much the race seat is oversize, then turn a bit of mild steel round bar to fit over the outside of the headstock, but make the internal diameter smaller by the amount of play in the bearing seat. Heat up to bright red, slip it over the headstock and let it cool.
 

malmac

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#34
Thank you for your input - I am carefully measuring everything up and will soon start to make some specific decisions on which method best fits the situation. As there is a top bearing mount and a bottom bearing mount - I may even use two different methods - depending on the condition of each mount and also because of frame geometry access is a little different in each case.

Cheers


mal
 

milomilo

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#35
Since you seem to have some concern as the the stretched out metal, a reinforcing ring should take care of that issue. If you make the outer outer ring .003 smaller than the OD of the existing ring, heat the new ring to around 500F and hammer/press on and let cool you should shrink the tube and the new race would tap right in. Now your neck would be much stronger with the additional ring than it is now.
 

Clogs

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#37
Hi Giy's from over the pond,
heating and hammering, press fit collers is just a bit over the top over the top..........on occasion in industry (even for high stress areas) we just had the bearing cup hard chrome plated on the outside and then centerless ground back to the size u want........
no stress , quite cheap and permenent........
good luck Clogs........
 

Tony Wells

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#38
Well, a couple of complications in your solution, which is a proper one in many instances. In this case, the original bore is not round or straight, so would need to be accurately bored to accept the new OD of the plated bearing. Then to get a single piece processed as you say would be very difficult for an individual. An established shop that specialized in equipment repair that had already developed a relationship with a plater/grinder would allow it, but not just the average Joe on his own. ENP maybe. I know a shop or two that might work one piece for just about anyone, but that's not what you are suggesting. Then there is the long term prospect. In all probability, this bearing would never need to be replaced, but in the event it did, the next owner would be faced with doing the same thing; plating and grinding.
 

Alittlerusty

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#39
seems wear won't be even so either fill the void with one of the suggested products and reinforce with outer ring or mill/ remove the neck and fab up a new one
 

kd4gij

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#41
I would first try to get ahold of a factory service manual and see what it recommends for the repair.
 

mjr6550

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#42
View attachment 186479

I am looking for a quality repair - the problem is that the bearing seat is either worn or stretched, or maybe the bearings being made are a little under size - BUT the end result is that the bearing race is not a press fit into the frame. Does anyone have a quality repair strategy for such a situation.

Is it possible to shrink the bearing mount? If so how?

Yes I know there is locktite products - but I feel this is a last resort, not a first resort.

Any good ideas?????

Mal

PS the bike is a 1962 BMW R69s - for those who are interested.
I realize the post is getting old, but here is my two cents. Make a collar out of plate or a short length of heavy wall tubing. Bore the i.d. to the smaller outside diameter of the steering neck and then file or grind it to an oval so that it just fits over the neck. The using a lever arm of some type turn the collar until the neck is round again. This assumes that the outside of the neck is also out-of-round, like the inside diameter. If that is the case, then pressing the side with the larger i.d. in (using curves blocks against the neck) may work.
 

FanMan

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#43
First thing you should do is to look up the bearing manufacturer's specs for the correct housing fit... they all publish tables of fits. Then and only then will you know what you have to work with.

I had a propeller reduction drive bearing bore on a paramotor that somehow was .002" oversize. I cut a strip of .001" brass shim stock (length equal to the bearing circumference, wider than the bearing) and put it into the housing bore, pressed the bearing into it, then trimmed the excess shim stock with an Xacto knife. Even with the vibration and overturning loads on the propeller, it never came loose.
 

malmac

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#44
Yes good idea to start with the designed tolerance/fit.

My situation is actually taper in the bearing mount - the bearing has not turned and worn the mount - I suspect the steering head has had one or more impacts which has bell mouthed the housing to some extent. I know this thread is old but I still have not been able to shuffle this project to the top of the list. I want too BUT.....
While I have had several passing thoughts - I really need time to think it through from scratch - remeasure - and the make a specific plan.

I have purchased some stock to work with - but I need a clear bit of time to muscle down to this one.
Thank you to everyone who has contributed.

Mal
 
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