Hi Dave, don't mean to butt in . I'm no pro machinist but I've studied and done some flycutter work on my mill. I saw once some professional machinist demonstrate flycutting and he said that the best scenario is having the cutter diameter greater than the work width. It seems to work for me. A project I did a while back involved milling 5 honda gx200 cylinder heads for the local go-karters.One who happens to run the local automotive machine shop and has a state of the art milling machine for automotive type heads was tickled pink when I did his cylinder head as well.
I accomplished this using a 4 jaw chuck adapted to my omni head with (2) 5/8" brazed (untouched) carbide lathe bits facing appropriately, tediously set and per my automotive machinists suggestion, trammed so just a sliver of light was visible between 1 bit and whatever surface I used to set the team .The total width was around 5-1/2". The heads came out true and awesomely smooth.
This morning I used a flycutter with a "parallel ground and angled 18.5*" bit to slot the end of a boring bar for a threading project iv been working on. Beats the snot out of an 1/8" end mill I tried last time. My new plan is to make a "flat" flycutter just for that purpose.
I accomplished this using a 4 jaw chuck adapted to my omni head with (2) 5/8" brazed (untouched) carbide lathe bits facing appropriately, tediously set and per my automotive machinists suggestion, trammed so just a sliver of light was visible between 1 bit and whatever surface I used to set the team .The total width was around 5-1/2". The heads came out true and awesomely smooth.
This morning I used a flycutter with a "parallel ground and angled 18.5*" bit to slot the end of a boring bar for a threading project iv been working on. Beats the snot out of an 1/8" end mill I tried last time. My new plan is to make a "flat" flycutter just for that purpose.