How do you like your Grizzley G0602 10x22 lathe?

A couple of items that I missed. I trimmed the T bar on my 3 jaw chuck wrench to 5.6". The original length would hit the headstock housing and chip the paint, much to my annoyance. The wrench is now able to turn a full 360º with no interference.

The second thin that I did was to make a hook type spanner for the spindle. The OEM method of using a tommy bar was chowdering the holes on the spindle. Bonus, the wrench allows bucking up to the ways, freeing both hands for the wrench on the chuck. For tightening, I replaced the socket head cap screw holding the backsplash at 1 o'clock to the spindle axis with a stop for the wrench so both hands are free to tighten the chuck.View attachment 430851
How thick is the wrench? About 1/4"? Did you heat it with a torch to bend and form it?
 
How thick is the wrench? About 1/4"? Did you heat it with a torch to bend and form it?
It is 1/4" x 5/8" stainless; one of the austenitic alloys and probably 304. My ex actually did the bend years ago for a product she was making. She did use heat and a hydraulic press with forming dies. I did have to modify the bend to match the spindle. Here are the details.
 
Reading some of these updates I got a little confused, but realized Grizzly must have made some updates over the years. I think mine was just made in 2022 and the spindle holes are too small to fit the wrench handle as previously described, BUT they now include a wrench like you made to hold the spindle steady.
 
Reading some of these updates I got a little confused, but realized Grizzly must have made some updates over the years. I think mine was just made in 2022 and the spindle holes are too small to fit the wrench handle as previously described, BUT they now include a wrench like you made to hold the spindle steady.
The spindle holes in my c.a. 2013 602 were too small for the 4 jaw wrench too. I just made a my own tommy bar to fit. It worked better than the wrench would have anyway. I noticed that the parts manual that came with the lathe doesn't show a cross slide lock but my lathe has one, although it is possible that it was something I added. My 602 didn't come with a set screw to adjust the cross slide nut backlash which I recognized very soon after my purchase and Grizzly made good on.

Some time ago, I noticed that engaging the half nuts put an excessive load on the lead screw. After some investigation, I found a tapped hole for provision to limit the half nut engagement and wrote about it on another thread. Looking at the parts diagram, I see that Grizzly actually have the required parts listed; #112 and #114. They weren't provided for my lathe. They are hidden by the thread dial assembly and the effect is subtle enough that it could easily be missed by the final inspection or by the end user. The consequences of using the lead screw without those parts is increased wear of the lead screw and half nuts, along with gears in the drive train to a lesser degree. They became apparent to me when I installed my ELS as the stepper motor now driving the lead screw has significantly less torque than driving by means of the gear train.
 
This evening, I watched a Clough42 video where he discovered an issue with his cross slide saddle.
I checked my 602, manufactured in Mar., 2013, and I don't have this problem but many of those who replied to his video did. It is something for 602 owners to check.

On another note, I noticed that he has a hole about an inch to the rear of the second cross slide gib adjustment as mine does. This is the location of the cross slide lock on my lathe mentioned in post # 24 above. This is an undocumented feature in all of the various G0602 user manuals that I have seen. It is a simple matter to add a screw to enable this feature.
 
This evening, I watched a Clough42 video where he discovered an issue with his cross slide saddle.
I checked my 602, manufactured in Mar., 2013, and I don't have this problem but many of those who replied to his video did. It is something for 602 owners to check.

On another note, I noticed that he has a hole about an inch to the rear of the second cross slide gib adjustment as mine does. This is the location of the cross slide lock on my lathe mentioned in post # 24 above. This is an undocumented feature in all of the various G0602 user manuals that I have seen. It is a simple matter to add a screw to enable this feature.
I watched that one too, and was the first thing I checked when I got mine setup.

I looked through my manual and it looks like they remedied the missing cross slide lock position indicator. It's not super visible but at least it's now in the manual. I haven't taken it out to look, but the screw must be tiny though. My allen wrench went way in and spun so many times before it stopped I thought it was empty.
 
I watched that one too, and was the first thing I checked when I got mine setup.

I looked through my manual and it looks like they remedied the missing cross slide lock position indicator. It's not super visible but at least it's now in the manual. I haven't taken it out to look, but the screw must be tiny though. My allen wrench went way in and spun so many times before it stopped I thought it was empty.
My manual for machines from 9/2008 doesn't mention either the half nut adjustment or the cross slide lock. The half nut adjustment components are shown in the parts diagram as 112 and 114. The cross slide lock feature isn't shown in the parts diagram.

The latest on-line manual for machines from 11/2012 does show the an adjustment for the half nut gibs but not the one involving parts 112 and 114. It is that adjustment that will increase wear on the lead screw and half nuts if the above parts are missing or not adjusted properly. The cross slide lock feature is mentioned in the operations section but isn't shown in the parts diagram.

Rather than the set screws and socket head cap screw for the cross slide and carriage locks, I would replace them with thumb screws, if you have clearance. They can be left loose until needed with no harm. In my case, my DRO scale prevents that so I retaine d the socket head cap screw on the carriage lock and replaced the set screws for the cross slide lock with a hex head cap screw. Less convenient bit I value the DRO more than the convenience.
 
Back
Top