How do I Sharpen HSS Blanks For Fly Cutting?

That should work fine. Just make sure you take a deep enough cut to get under the rust layer. You may want to cover your ways, or clean the mill after you clean up "rough" material. Rust and mill scale are fantastic abrasives.
 
My experience in taking too deep a deep cut was having the tool come out of the holder. By cutting full width with a single pass and even adjusting the cutter to barely span the material it is still an interrupted cut with single point engagement so there is a lot of jerking and pounding going on. That is why it totally amazes me in how well they cut.

I just use a lathe tool. First time I put in a right hand tool, so I just reversed the mill. No harm, no foul.
 
I would suggest forgetting about the fly cutter if removal of any significant stock is to be removed, and consider a multi insert face mill; I had two in my shop one was about 1 -1/2 " in diameter that took 3 triangular positive rake carbide inserts and one about 3" in diameter with perhaps 5 inserts; both worked well in a Bridgeport style machine, an Induma 1-S; they consumed little power, cut a square corner, and insert life was quite good. Both came with a R-8 shank integral with the cutter. The inserts were secured with button head Allen screws from one side. Don't feel like the Lone Ranger having little or no experience with these fly cutters; I have been working at the trade for very nearly fifty years now, and have never used one, always used face mills (up to 24" diameter) or shell end mills.
 
Thank you to all who have replied.:thumbsup:

i'll do the heavy gouging with a roughing mill and do the finishing work with the flycutter as suggested.
i have been looking at shell mills and multi-cutter insert heads as well.

i have a lot of tool blanks and unused flycutters that i'm just itchin' to try out.

i appreciate the input from all!!
mike:))
 
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