How do I remove stuck taper pins?

HMF

Site Founder
Administrator
Joined
Sep 22, 2010
Messages
7,223
Has anyone gto a magic method of removing taperpins that have been previously abused - beaten on both ends.

Is there some sort of "puller" that I can make, or do I just drill it out? If drilling, how do I get the drill on target?

Thanks,


Nelson
 
Grind or file small end flush. Using proper sized drift punch, tap it out. If the small end has been swaged into the hole, you may have to hammer like hell to remove.

Drilling is not a good idea, unless you plan to remake the hole in both parts to the next larger size.


As with all stuck parts, PB Blaster and/or heat are your friends.
 
when we had to replace taper pins in our cnc lathes (blind pin holes) we always drilled and tapped and used a long set screw for a stud, a socket and washers for spacers and jacked them out of the hole.
 
Some pins, both taper and dowel pins, especially the larger sizes come with holes drilled and tapped just for removal by jacking. If you remove the peening from the small end, and a punch won't dislodge it as David suggested, then you could D & T the big end, and perhaps using a combination of a little jacking pressure plus a tap or two. That should get it out. Heat won't hurt if nothing nearby will be damaged.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Agree that you would have to "deburr" the small end first of course.

I usually get away with drilling and tapping the large end, and pulling it out with a small "dent puller" slide hammer. Just remove the sheet metal screw in the slide hammer and replace it with a machine screw of the proper size.

Then remove all tools from the hands of the individual that mushroomed the pin(s) in the first place. ;)
 
if the lagre end is exposed long enough run a die nut on the end then with washers and a nut pull out the pin otherwise do the drill and tap the large end and install a piece of allthread and use a hollow hydraulic jack to jack it out bill
 
Taper pins require a LARGE hammer.

Grind off small end then get the largest drift punch you have that fits the pin.

Her the biggest hammer yiu can find and get ready.

Back up the shaft so it cannot move.

Turn shaft so pin is easy to strike.

Hold punch firm and square then smack it with the big hammer but first just tap it as the large amount of mass of the hammer will have a great amount of energy transmitted so no need to swing real hard.

If this does not work turn 180 and smack the fat end once or twice then try again on small end.

If that fails drill it out but this can be tricky.

Locate a good drift punch that is smaller diameter than small end of pin.

Pinch and drill about 1/2 way through then insert punch and smack it.

Re drill to 3/4 way and repeat.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
 
Taper pins are usually soft so if struck too hard they can mushroom into the fit.
The small end can be file'd flush and drilled for relief so the metal can move inward.
If the large end was badly beaten, it should be relieved in the same way.

How deep to drill depends on the size of the pin but you just need to drill deep enough so any disturbed
metal can be relieved toward the center of the pin

You need to leave enough wall thickness so there's still plenty of strength to it for lightly hammering on.
Also the part should be supported so any hammering doesn't damage bearings "n" such.
Differing methods can be used depending on the size of the pins.
 
Drill the narrow end 3/16" or so deep, leaving a very thin wall to relieve the previous ham-fisted installer's swage. While judicious use of a hammer may be adequate to properly install a tapered pin, removing one is best done by press, even if it needs to be fabricated...... My 2¢.
 
Filing off the small end, and drilling 3/16 deep is a great idea. A pin punch that fits the little hole should get the job done. If you can apply heat to the location safely, scratch a bit of paraffin on it and apply heat to the general area. Paraffin is great penetrant when hot.
 
Back
Top