How Are You Mounting Your Pm1340gt Lathe?

[sanddan]

I hope that everyone that has responded with posts has also voted.

I have tried both the Teco steel swivel feet and Mason isolating feet, both with 1/2" studs. The Mason feet allowed too much movement for me.

I wanted to see what other people are doing and if they like/dislike their choice. If anyone has bolted their lathe to the floor I would love to hear how they feel about doing that. Stability, vibration and any other comments they might have.

Thanks to everyone who has responded.

 

[Steve Shannon]

Probably a stupid question, but what about pouring a concrete base in place or even encasing the feet of the stand with poured concrete?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[RIO]

Mark, your advice and information never fails to help.
You have to watch what you tell me though, like "I would add a Marathon E467". Next thing you know, it's on my machine. So, the same with pouring the stands full of concrete......stand by for pictures...

I think the main thing I am hearing from Matt is BOLT THE STAND DOWN, AND IT MAKES A HUGE DIFFERENCE. Unfortunately, I absolutely can't drill my concrete, unless I like playing Russian roulette with likely hitting a radiant heat water line that's buried in the floor. Otherwise, if you are having instability issues, I absolutely would do that next......in addition to pouring the stands full of concrete

Thinking specifically, what I intend to do before I take the lathe back off the stand, is spot weld the 4 bolt heads up under, inside the stands right now that hold the lathe on. Otherwise, if I fill it will concrete, how would I then bolt the lathe back on the stand?

This could be fun....after filling with concrete, put the doors back on and reassemble. Then holler to a visiting friend to go get a wrench for me out of the cabinet under the lathe, and watch his reaction when he opens the cabinet door.

Another idea [serious this time] is to tap those 3/4 inch holes on the bottom, and use much bigger leveling feet. I expect that to help also.

 

[Muskt]

I do not have a 13x40. I have a 12x36. I fabbed my own base to go under the supplied cabinets. I used all metal feet with 1/2x13 bolts being the support.
When I first got the lathe up & running, I was seriously upset with the finish on everything I turned. Couldn't understand the reason behind the lousy finish. Then I noticed the work light shaking or swaying, kind of like a drunken sailor on shore leave. I had already leveled the machine with a Starrett machinist level. It does sit on a concrete floor. I looked, I pondered, I checked, & I uttered unpure words. I finally discovered that one of the drive belts (the 12x36 has 2 drive belts) was a slight bit looser than the other one and actually flopped about when running. I removed the flopping belt and the vibration was cut down by at least 2/3. Better, but not good enough. So, I put the level back into position, and started fiddling with the 4 feet. I found that I could make very small changes in the feet without much change in the actual leveling of the machine--(kind of like changing the preload). So, I messed with it for quite a while until I was able to get the majority of the shake out while still maintaining very close to level across the ways. This may not prove of any value to your situation, but then--Who knows? Stranger things have happened. Here is a pic of the feet I used. BTW, I have these on both my Lathe & Mill (PM932PDF), and my previous Mill in Alaska--Absolutely no complaints about the feet.

I hope you get it sorted out.
Jerry in Delaware

 

[mksj]

I need to clarify, not filling the cabinet with concrete, if you look at the base there is a a 4.5 inch compartment between the base and the lower shelf. If you turn the cabinet upside down, sealed the seams, one could partly fill the bottom area which could add a significant amount of weight to the bases. The mounting feet bolts are not in this cavity, but one does need to give thought to anything you want to weld or bolt to the base. I believe the non threaded holes in the base will take a 5/8 or 3/4" bolt. These are what I use for my feet with opposing heavy washers and lock nuts. I have my cross base bolted to this area. I like what the individual did with his grizzly to widen the stance, which goes a big way to adding rigidity. Alternatively a steel plate between the bases. Just do not follow why the recent issues with vibration with the machine.

I would think that if you are using solid metal feet, and the machine is not bolted to the ground, that if the load is not properly set between all the feet that you could get significant rocking/vibration in the machine. If bolted to the ground, what I gather from Matt, is that the threaded holes are used to put an opposing load down against the mount to load each mounting bolt.

Mike and I both recommend starting with the stock motor, we have had no issues with it. The additional weight (maybe 30 pounds) and control with the Marathon motor, should not worsen a vibration issue. It is a much better motor, and inverter rated. It is rated to pull full torque down to 6Hz. Another member that I worked with on his VFD conversion, installed the TEFC version of this motor (bigger space), it works wonderfully relative to the stock motor it replaced.

 

[RIO]

Muskt: those are the exact leveling feet I got too, which are as far as I can tell the same as Mike and Mark are using, just a different brand. Mine are from Enco. One question for all of you: are you putting the lock nut on top of the stand plate, or under? Probably would help to buy four more and do both, top and bottom.
I actually want to install much bigger levelers in the other 3/4" holes to see if that helps.

Still pondering the next move on this issue....man, I wish I could drill my floor.....

 

[Steve Shannon]

Rather than drilling your floor, you might be able to epoxy plates to your floor with studs welded on them. If the area of the plate is sufficient it will hold as well.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Duker]

I made a cast concrete base for a fellow woodworkers new Powermatic lathe. While the goal was to create mass it was more so to have a very stable base at the right working height that would accommodate his wheel chair. I made a rough concrete form from 2 x 10's and then added threaded j rod in which I bolted down a 2" x 2" shot filled frame in which the lathe then bolted down into plugs I welded into the tube. It was very solid even when turning a large very off center bowl blank. It took me a weekend to build the forms and cast the base and another to weld up the frame. I am not sure what it weighed but it certainly pushed the limits of the rented gantry I used to load and unload from the trailer.

This type of base could give you the mass that Mark recommends without the risk of drilling into your floor. Perhaps you could cut the existing metal base down weld a mounting plate and bolt it to a cast base to get the height you need.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[zmotorsports]

I know I posted above what feet I am using but don't recall if I mentioned, but I have not had any issues with vibrations. In at least one of my videos, possibly more, I show and mention just how smooth my lathe is. I am very happy with the finish it produces.

That said, I am going to be adding some weight to the base, but not due to any adverse issues, I am merely looking for some more tooling storage and the filler panel area seems like a lot of wasted space. I will be removing that and adding a toolbox/roll cabinet attached to the two outer side cabinets. This should allow me to store more tooling as well as a little weight as a side benefit.

I hope to be caught up on jobs in the next month or two that I can get going on that.

Mike.

 

[RIO]

Steve, epoxying a plate would probably help, I don't know how much. Good idea though.

Duker: if not too inconvenient, can you post pictures of the super-stand you built?