Hopkins and Allen 932 32 rimfire

[Les B]

This rifle action is a fine falling block design. Has anyone tried to convert this 32 rimfire to a 17HMR? I would like to have a small rifle which would look similar to the Win. high wall with a tang sight.

Tom has a great job on making a Steven Favorite action,but I have been thinking a H & A 932 breech block which moves straight up and down would be a great choice to make as a home project. Has anyone looked at this design? The one I have was made before 1898.

Anyone have any experience with this action?

 

[Mark Lossner]

If they've had experience they are surely laying low!

Can you post a site where I can go have a look at one? I'm pondering a rifle build myself, maybe this action would be a good place to start.

Mark

 

[Tom Griffin]

Les,

The falling block design would likely be stout enough for the .177HMR, but I'm not so sure about the barrel. It's held in with the same set screw arrangement as the Favorite which is fine for .22 or .32 rimfire, but it would probably be best to go with a threaded barrel for anything stronger. Nice looking gun though, and it looks to be quite adaptable to the home machine shop.

Tom

 

[Les B]

Tom,

I know what you mean about the barrel screw. It wouldn't be too much to make a tapered tap and tap the reciever about like a 20 tpi x .715. I would still use the barrel screw to set into the barrel as a flush screw under the bottom of the reciever. The barrel threaded would alow a tighter barrel fit to the reciever and probably shoot with more accuracy. I would modify the firing pin to make a better seal around the pin to keep out gas from a split primer rim.

This would be a fine project for this fall when it cools down and I get back on location in Texas.

 

[Tom Griffin]

Tom,

I know what you mean about the barrel screw. It wouldn't be too much to make a tapered tap and tap the reciever about like a 20 tpi x .715. I would still use the barrel screw to set into the barrel as a flush screw under the bottom of the reciever. The barrel threaded would alow a tighter barrel fit to the reciever and probably shoot with more accuracy. I would modify the firing pin to make a better seal around the pin to keep out gas from a split primer rim.

This would be a fine project for this fall when it cools down and I get back on location in Texas.

View attachment 37299

Les,

Aren't barrel threads an interference fit? If they were tapered, you might have a hard time getting the timing right.

I've decided to O-ring to the firing pin on the Steven's. That will prevent any gas from getting thorough and not change the external appearance of the pin.

We don't have the heat issue around here that you do in TX, but there is just so much to do during the summer that I have little time to spend in the shop.

Tom

 

[Les B]

Back to the drawing board for a better way to attachs the barrel at this time. The barrel shank has a taper of a few thousands. Theading is still my first plan now. I just bought this rifle a few days ago and will make a complete take down to study its design.

 

[normks]

well im no expert but i fig that i was gona take the 5/16 screw that holds the barrel on and turn the end to .250 and drill the barrel for a press fit that way it cant shift forward durring shooting or hammer strike. still have firing pin alignment issues regarding making a new link

 

[Les B]

Here is the update on my H&A 932. After considering the price of ammo I went with the 22LR liner. I stayed with the tapered screw lock on the barrel extension. Test fired last week and it will shoot very well at 25 yds and 50 yds.

I made a new link to lift the block high enough for the firing pin to hit on the rim of the 22 lr rim. I kept the extractor on the left side and made an extension to reach the end of the rim of the 22 LR case. I am still playing around with this modified extractor. It appears to be OK, but will try to improve it on the range next time.

The old stock has been glued back together and I will patch a few places. The forearm needs a patch on one side. I think that it will look better to keep the original wood as it has the serial number on all the parts. This model was made before 1896.

This would be a fine rifle to copy if you would like to make one of the finest actions for rimfire ammo. The design is the best I have seen and probably the strongest on lock up.

 

[Tom Griffin]

Les,

How about some pics of the finished product?

Did you need to make a wedge shaped firing pin for the .22 rimfire or was the original one ok?

Tom

 

[Les B]

Tom,

I am running behind on this project. I had to have cataract surgery on the right eye in June and it was not an easy 2 hour operation. I am able to see much better and now I can see the open sights. I hope to make a peep sight for the tang and try this before I finish the metal.

The firing pin was missing when I bought the rifle. I made a new pin with the correct amount taper on the tip. A small short spring is in front of the pin to return after it fires the shell. It is made from tool steel and harden. It is drawn to mediun straw color with a propane torch. If this fails I will make another one of mild steel and case harden the part. The link for the falling block had to be made about .100 in. longer for the rim on the 22 LR. over the original 32 RF. The hammer and trigger needed a little timing for the rebound safety notch to work correctly.

The metal and wood needs a lot of work. I will rust blue the rifle and finish up the stock soon.

The action will be apart tomorrow and I will try to take some close ups of the action and parts. It is still rough, but you can see how this action operates. I haven't found a good break down with the parts.

Les