Hf Bender To Bp Table?

If you have a well atached bench vice you could bolt a sturdy piece of angle iron to the bottom so you can clamp it.

Stuart
 
THANKS - Great ideas!!
 
Outside my forge I sunk a section of utility pole about 2 ' into the ground for my HF Beverly shear. Works great but then again it is not twisted in use. I have the same bender as yours but haven't mounted it yet. Looking for ideas too.
Dave
 
I made an elevated base for mine and clamp it to my jump shear. I haven't moved it yet.
 
I have the floor mount model of that bender and did not want to permanently mount it to the floor either, but I knew that it would be the best and most secure way to mount it. My son works for a masonry company, so he brought home a masonry saw and we cut out about a 12" square section of the garage floor. Next, I welded four 1/2" coupling nuts to a piece of 1/4" steel plate so that the nuts would match the mounting plate on the bender. I put a bolt in each of the coupling nuts to keep the holes plugged, then concreted the new plate into the floor with bolts just sticking up out of the concrete. Once the concrete cured, it was an easy matter to remove the bolts and fasten the bender to the floor when it was needed. When not in use, it is easily removed and the a thin 1/8" plate with smooth pins fits into the coupling nuts. This keeps stray material from getting into the holes when they are not in use. The smooth pins are also a loose enough fit that they do not rust in place in the floor either. Now anytime I want to use the bender, I simply lift up and remove the simple cover, then bolt the bender to the floor in just minutes. This method allows me to mount the bender in the middle of the floor so that there is room to work all the way around it without running into any obstacles.

I had considered mounting it with anchors, but soon realized that the method that I used would be far more robust and reliable than anchors.
 
sounds pretty good Terry. So after cutting the concrete, what did you do, break it all out, demo hammer, or just sledge and chisel.
How'd you protect the bolts from being concreted in?
I like your idea a lot. Seems like the best way to mount it w/o it being a perm fixture.
 
I guess I forgot to mention that we just broke it up with an electric jackhammer that he also brought home from work.

We actually 'hung' the plate from the top of the hole by bolting two pieces of 2"x2" lumber to the top of the coupling nuts, then set the plate into the hole. The 2x2's were longer than the hole was wide. The 2x2's were coated with standard concrete form release before being put in place. Once the concrete cured, we removed the bolts and tapped the 2x2's with a hammer to knock them loose.
 
What you might consider if your space constrained, and have several different tools you might want to mount, is to do like Terry did, but install a male class 111 trailer receiver (2x2" solid bar with pin hole) in your concrete floor. Then you can build several posts from 2"id square tube to the height you want with a plate on the top end to hold whatever you want to mount to it, bender, vice, grinder, anvil, etc.. Just be sure you position it so you will have sufficient room to accommodate all of your attachments. Same idea as many welding tables employ, except vertical. Edit: See I missed the boat on that one. Guess I need to read all the posts.:) Mike
 
while that's a good idea Mike, I don't see it as good as the plate. The rocking that the tube in tube would do, would drive me nuts. I would rather have a solid environment.
 
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