Help with lathe decision

Since I already talked myself into spending more, does anyone have thoughts on the PM1022/1030 or saving a couple extra months for the 1127?

Now you are heading down the slippery slope of if I spend this much more will I be happier, and luck will have it you have asked that question here! :grin: We are here to "help you spend your budget.... and then some! :eagerness: My answer is get the biggest machine that you can fit in your budget/shop space. but figure in tooling cost so that you can at least use the machine or machines. I think a 1030v would be a respectable machine with decent features and capability but then again for not much more you could have an 1127 and for a bit more a 1228 and a bit more........ Slippery slope here we come! When I was in your shoes picking a mill I spent nights reading about every mill that was even close to my budget and then some. I had to at a point back up analyze what I really wanted to be able to do vs money spent and size of shop. I resorted to making as close to life size cardboard models of tables and machines in whole. I think I almost drove my self crazy. In the end I decided for what I wanted to do the 727 would be fine. Now a little more then a year later I do not have buyers remorse, could I have gotten a 932 instead sure I guess so but the 727 is a decent machine and I'm making chips every chance I get while learning this fine hobby. :encourage:
 
+1 to the slippery slope!

The 1127 vf-lb is the smallest PM lathe that offers a separate carriage drive if I'm not mistaken. D1-4 camlock, hardened and ground spindles and gears, 1.5" spindle bore, hardened bed and a VFD drive - all the good stuff that a good lathe has. I don't own a PM lathe but I've looked at them a LOT. In my opinion, a good hobby class lathe falls within the 11-12" class and the 1127 offers a lot of bang for the buck. Whichever lathe you go for, ask if they have the full change gear set.

But then for a few dollars more you can get a 1228, and then a 1340 and then ... :)
 
I'm looking at PM lathes as well. These are just my thoughts from researching various options.

1022 vs 1030. If you have the space, no brainer, 1030.

Those to the 1127/1228... That's another $1000. Given that the 1236 comes with the stand, if you want a stand, the 1236 seems like a better choice.

1127 comes with a QTCP, 1228 it's another 150.. The 1228 looks like it has some nice upgrades, but with the stand and QTCP, you're within $50 of the preferred package 1236 which comes with both as well.

Right now, I'm leaning toward the 1030 and getting a bunch of tooling to go with it. If the budget opens up, I would probably jump to the 1236. Space and 220V aren't an issue for me, and those seem like the biggest reasons to go with the smaller units.

If you don't want to buy a stand, the 1127/1228 become more interesting.


I did look at Grizzly and a couple others. I think the PM machines have a better package and if you assemble a similar package on Grizzly pricing is often higher. PM warranty service seems better, from reading around. And I like that they have a good reputation and presence here on HM.
 
I have the 1228 and am happy with it, but the 1127 comes with more accessories. The 1127 has a 1 hp A.C.
motor with a vfd and the 1228 has a 2 hp D.C.

At the time I bought my 1228, the 1127 didn't come with a D1-4 spindle, but now it does. If I were buying
today I probably would have picked the 1127 just for the extra accessories. I'm not sure I need the extra
power or the extra inch of swing. Don't get me wrong, I really like my 1228, but I just think the 1127 is
probably the better bang for your buck...
 
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When I go lathe shopping to replace my Shoptask 3in1 lathe the 1030v seems to be suitable feature and price wise, thinking of the things that at times drive me crazy on the Shoptask ( no half nut or power cross feed and really only about 18 inches usable between centers) Threading would be so much nicer with an actual half nut and threading dial due to having to time stopping reversing restarting forward etc. The lack of a separate feed rod doesn't bother me at this price point. The 1127 has a lot of nice features mentioned already and from my reading seems almost fool proof in the reliability department, and probably the best bang for the buck if I can bump the budget to that price point . Here I go down the slippery slope. All hinging on budget/space at my house but its a hobby I enjoy.
 
When I blindly jumped into hobby machining I had (and still do) a very limited budget. I looked around in several forums and thought that I knew about what I would like to have. I followed a 10-22 discussion group and realized that I would probably have to look into a used machine. About the time I almost gave up, one of the fellows that I had followed in one group said that he was through with machining due to his age. I immediately contacted him and put down a "hold it until I can pick it up deposit." Then worked in a vacation with the wife that just happened to go past his place. When's I got there I looked at the lathe and all the extras that came with it, I was delirious with joy. The lathe looked to be in extremely good shape and came with extras worth far more than the lathe was worth, including a mini mill again with a plethora of extras. I really didn't want the mill, but what the heck. To this day I haven't needed to buy anything and still haven't touched much of the included equipment. The mini mill that I thought was a toy has proved to be a fairly competent device. . I have run into size limitations with the lathe, but have learned how to redesign around them. If I were to replace anything, it would be the mill and the 727 would be my choice.

A very pleased old man.
 
I have a Clausing 5914 that I rebuilt myself. Problem points on these lathes are the delrin bushings and hydraulics in the reeves drive. I ended up going VFD so no more reeves, thats always an option (and better IMHO). There is a specialized thrust bearing in the clutch/brake mechanism that is NLA or very expensive for NOS. With VFD none of that is really needed, and the lathe will be much quieter to run.

Also check the 4 bearings in the QCGB, as mine needed replacement. These bearings are somewhat standard but I had to make bushings for 2 of them.

I also had to replace the large bearing in the back gear drive sleeve. Its somewhat standard but need to fab a bushing to go inside.

Once tuned up it is a very fine lathe.
 
If you can find a Jet 1024 in good condition, jump on it. So far, the only limitation I find in mine is the smallish, 1 1/16. It is a very rigid lathe for its size.
 
Hi Belliger,

At least go look at it and get a first hand look. The ad says it is in excellent condition. You aren't that far away. Easy RT day trip. If this is in its original condition, WOW, you will never look back.

For my money, the most important thing you can buy, when you are buying a lathe is - precision. The least wear and tear you can afford to pay for is the Best Buy you can make. Now the PM machines are fine machines. And the vendor who sells them has received rave reviews. But, I'll bet you will wish you bought a 12" swing lathe, very soon after you buy a smaller one. Anyway, this Clausing might be the best deal you will find around Washington for a long time, if it is in the condition the owner says it is.

Edit: I just reread the CL Ad more closely. Something is a miss here. The machine looks like it has very little wear - yet the bearings the owner replaced don't go bad with out a LOT of running time - which should be reflected in wear on the ways underneath of the tailstock, chuck jaws, gearing in the head, etc. and the general condition of the machine. Yet, the photos look like it it has had very light use.

In short, all parts of the lathe wear on each other, as the machine wears. So if you go look at it you could put a straight edge on the ways and look for the telltale sliver of light between the straightedge and the worn gap on the ways - primarily up front near the chuck, on the nearest side of the bed to you. You can even take some feeler gauges and measure bed wear. If very little wear, e.g. 3-4-5 or maybe 6 thou gap, you've got a nice machine. If .015 to .030" gap - walk away..

Same thing with a quick look underneath the tailstock. Just push the tailstock part off the edge of the bed - don't need to remove it. Just look and feel the back edge.

The bottom of the tailstock is a sure fire telltale inspection about the overall condition of the lathe. If it has been used hard in its early years, the tailstock bearing surface will have worn significantly, due to repeated, prolonged operation over the ways. If you scratch the bearing surface with your thumb and don't feel much of a ridge where the ways have cut into the casting - you've found a very lightly used lathe! On the other hand, an old production machine might exhibit up to .100" wear. This would be a regular groove cut deep into the base of the tailstock. Can't hide this stuff with a paint job.

Good luck!

Glenn
 
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The bed ways on the Clausing are flame hardened, not likely to show any wear unless the machine was really beat upon.
 
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