- Joined
- Nov 12, 2012
- Messages
- 16
I have essentially the same machine from Central Machine. It was a gift from someone for whom I did a favor, along with a lot of tooling. I think the bed is a little longer than your lathe, but that is the only difference that I can see.
I changed the gear oil with 30 wt non-detergent per the Grizzly manual. The original sludge that drained out had to be heavier, like thick syrup. Everything else got 5-20 wt. I am sure that there are better products. But these should work. The drain hole is behind the lathe gears. The oil port is in the back side. Both are a design defect. You need a can and some tape to minimize the oil mess at the drain, and a funnel to refill. Mine took an even quart. I filled it until the oil started coming out of the level/view hole below the chuck, then replaced the clear nut, and poured the last two ounces. It took me a long time to even change the oil. It was all new for me.
There are three or four brands of machines build with these castings. My research is that all the cast parts come from the same foundry, but they are assembled in separate shops, almost like a kit. The various machines have small variations from make to make, and from machine to machine within the same brand over time. (I tried to find the threads of the oil port to add a street elbow, but they must be metric on my machine.) Big plus on the Grizzly G9729 manual.
I am just a hobby guy. This machine is a lot for me. Just learning. But hey, you should have seen the grin on my face when my friend brought it over. My two planned projects are pull knobs for cabinets - simple, non-moving parts, and a milled trigger guard to replace the stamped one on my CZ 22.
Suggestions - I found some Starrett micrometers, a work stop, and a magnetic dial indicator at my local pawn shops for good prices.
Also, you will probably need a riser block for the mill. And the forum has a lot of information, and there are some Youtube videos out there. Finally, oil is your friend.
Again, I am just starting out. But my machine is about the same as yours.
I changed the gear oil with 30 wt non-detergent per the Grizzly manual. The original sludge that drained out had to be heavier, like thick syrup. Everything else got 5-20 wt. I am sure that there are better products. But these should work. The drain hole is behind the lathe gears. The oil port is in the back side. Both are a design defect. You need a can and some tape to minimize the oil mess at the drain, and a funnel to refill. Mine took an even quart. I filled it until the oil started coming out of the level/view hole below the chuck, then replaced the clear nut, and poured the last two ounces. It took me a long time to even change the oil. It was all new for me.
There are three or four brands of machines build with these castings. My research is that all the cast parts come from the same foundry, but they are assembled in separate shops, almost like a kit. The various machines have small variations from make to make, and from machine to machine within the same brand over time. (I tried to find the threads of the oil port to add a street elbow, but they must be metric on my machine.) Big plus on the Grizzly G9729 manual.
I am just a hobby guy. This machine is a lot for me. Just learning. But hey, you should have seen the grin on my face when my friend brought it over. My two planned projects are pull knobs for cabinets - simple, non-moving parts, and a milled trigger guard to replace the stamped one on my CZ 22.
Suggestions - I found some Starrett micrometers, a work stop, and a magnetic dial indicator at my local pawn shops for good prices.
Also, you will probably need a riser block for the mill. And the forum has a lot of information, and there are some Youtube videos out there. Finally, oil is your friend.
Again, I am just starting out. But my machine is about the same as yours.
