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Help With A Hammond #4 Voltage

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Lordbeezer

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#31
Ken..was thinking something was done in the past..no dust..no grease from fittings at bearings..has sealed bearings.dont see a way for grease to lube anything.the varnish on windings looked really good.even though motor is sealed didn't see how it could be so clean for age of machine..going to get back on grinder after finishing up my 10k gap bed lathe..thanks for your reply
 

4gsr

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#32
You're far much better with the sealed bearings in the long run. You don't have to worry about contaminated grease getting to the bearings using the existing grease zerks. Even though the class of bearing may not be the same from the OEM, you'll never notice it in operation. Ken
 

Lordbeezer

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#33
Hello..ran motor today for about 20 minutes.runs very quietly.using my starrett speed indicator looks like motor rpm is right at 1800.. Almost 18 sweeps of dial in 60 seconds.guessing motor is set up for 1750 rpm.noticed motor has newer gray paint compaired to rest of grinder with several layers of paint.thanks for everybody's help.will post some pictures when I clean.repaint and get her going
 

Lordbeezer

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#34
Hello.finished rebuilding my 10k.back on grinder.wired in a 26uf capacitor on leg going to motor.hooked other two motor wires to 220.runs forward.off.reverse very smooth..but after 15 minutes motor started getting hot..do I need to wire in a capacitor in one of 220 legs?going to make a rotary converter soon but thinking it will run hot if I wire it like this one.i have a lot to learn about 3 phase ..any ideas? Thanks Phil
 

Lordbeezer

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#35
Would it be better to use jumper motor on converter motor instead of trying to start it with capacitor.remove capacitor I wired into grinder motor? Thanks
 

4gsr

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#36
First thing, that is a big oilfield capacitor to have on the generated leg of you small motor. I would think a 15uf would be better. The other two legs, I wouldn't put any capacitors on it. Just direct current from L1 and L2. As for the motor getting hot, that is the nature of a totally enclosed motor like yours with out an external fan to cool it off. The motor is not designed for continuous duty as a TEFC motor is. So it means, you have to stop and let it cool off for a bit after using it for a length of time. The capacitor should not have an adverse affect on heat being generated. If you think it is, take it out of the running circuit and just use it in the starting circuit. Ken
 

Lordbeezer

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#37
Have almost finished cleaning grinder up.still have to make a table.after looking at many posts on 3 phase wiring have wired up grinder.forward-reverse work.turn switch to forward or reverse.turn on breaker.motor hums.hit start button.runs..maybe someone could look at pictures and see if it's correct and safe.have picked up couple contractors.would they be a better choice..thanks for your time..Phil
 

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Ulma Doctor

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#38
Hi Phil,
in picture 2, it appears that you have a jumper wire between pole 2 and pole 3- i think that's why you are getting a hum- the poles are shorted
remove the jumper wire
 

Lordbeezer

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#39
jumper powered Capisitor.removed.hummed but wouldn't run.hooked red wire to power.still hummed but did run.thanks for your response
 

Ulma Doctor

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#40
just to be sure...
T4,T5,T6 are connected
T7 & T1 will get 1 leg of 230v
T8 & T2 will get 1 leg of 230v
T9 & T3 will get 1 leg of 230 or will be the generating leg and would get the momentary switch and start capacitor if single phase is supplied.

any pairing Tx could be used as the generating leg
 

Lordbeezer

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#41
You have lost me with the t numbers.is there a diagram you could refer me to.wiring from drum switch is marked L1..L2..etc. thanks Phil
 

Ulma Doctor

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#42
sorry,
the T(x) connections are motor connections ( power to the motor)
L(x) ar line connections (power in) i'm going by the low voltage connection chart in Post #6 of this thread
 

Lordbeezer

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#43
Both sides of motor wiring tag have been scratched through.can't see in photos.motor only has three wires.thanks very much for sharing your knowledge .Phil
 

Ulma Doctor

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#44
Hi Phil,
do you have 3 phase power or are you trying to start the unit with single phase power?
i seem to remember you running it on single phase.

if this is the case,
2 wires of the motor will get single phase supply
the 3rd leg will get a momentary switch and one side of the start capacitor
the other capacitor pole will need to be supplied with a jumper from either single phase pole to provide the starting capacitance to get it started

here is a diagram that will help out:


note: this system uses a magnetic contactor, capacitor, fuses, and momentary switches to run a 3 phase motor on single phase supply.
the design could be modified for use with a manual motor starter and a capacitor,
Here is How:

follow L2 on the drawing above,
it gets a leg of single phase (L2) and supplies the start capacitor.
the momentary switch is on the backside of the capacitor. the switch controls the application for the capacitors charge . the momentary switch will dump the capacitor charge into the motor through the 3rd leg.
through your 3 pole switch, 2 legs will get connected to 2 motor poles, 1 switch pole will get a jumper from wire to power the the start capacitor. from the start capacitor you'll connect a wire to the momentary switch, from the momentary switch you'll connect directly to the 3rd leg.

after the motor starts (and you take your finger off the start switch)
the 3rd leg should show voltage when tested against another phase or to ground
the power disconnect will be responsible for cutting off current flow to the system

i hope that made sense, if not i'm happy to try explain differently
 
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Lordbeezer

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#45
Thanks for your help.have learned a lot from your replies.yes on single phase..which if any of contractors in picture would work ? When I enlarge picture of diagram the writing is blurry.any way to enlarge?tried clicking on photo.thanks Phil
 

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