Help Please, I need wedges for my new Jacob's 18N Super Chuck

[woodchucker]

Something I do on my work lathe is put magnets on the tailstock to keep most used tools handy. But it does catch steel dust and chips, so is sometimes a pain to clean.

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unfortunately for me, my Southbend 9 has a curvaceous (get your mind out of the gutter ) tailstock . Nothing easy ... If I had that square top, I would mount a HDPE tray on top with either magnets in the bottom of the tray or clips.

 

[David2011]

Something I do on my work lathe is put magnets on the tailstock to keep most used tools handy. But it does catch steel dust and chips, so is sometimes a pain to clean.

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Last year I bought a mill that has magnetic strip to hold bits. I have pretty much quit using any bits that have been on those strips. They’re all magnetized and hold chips too well.

 

[Jimsehr]

I have drilled and tapped thru the center of some chucks and used a bolt thru tapped hole to force them apart. But what do I know I have only been machining for 70 years.
Jim Sehr
To me those wedges are a pain to use and if you want you can leave a set screw in tapped hole. I used a 3/8 tapped hole. With a 3/8 bolt to force the arbor out of the chuck.

 

[Provincial]

I have drilled and tapped thru the center of some chucks and used a bolt thru tapped hole to force them apart. But what do I know I have only been machining for 70 years.
Jim Sehr
To me those wedges are a pain to use and if you want you can leave a set screw in tapped hole. I used a 3/8 tapped hole. With a 3/8 bolt to force the arbor out of the chuck.

Great idea! If you keep the set screw in the threads, it keeps a seat for the drill bit to push against.

I use fine threads for forcing bolts.

 

[Janderso]

I have drilled and tapped thru the center of some chucks and used a bolt thru tapped hole to force them apart. But what do I know I have only been machining for 70 years.
Jim Sehr
To me those wedges are a pain to use and if you want you can leave a set screw in tapped hole. I used a 3/8 tapped hole. With a 3/8 bolt to force the arbor out of the chuck.

70 years Jim? Is that all

 

[Jimsehr]

70 years Jim? Is that all

Jeff
Might be more my memory isn’t as good as it used to be.

 

[MikeInOr]

What are the dimensions that you need? I have this set made by a pretty poor machinist that you can borrow. They were made for a JT4 taper Jacobs 18N.






It took me all day to make them. You would just need to send them back when you are done.

A good machinest would have made them pretty... I just needed the chuck off!

 

[Eyerelief]

This chuck is big!!
That‘s an MT4 tailstock quill. Looks like a runt. I made sure to lock it toward the end of the twist side of the tang.
That’s about clear as mud.

It’s big for sure. Here is a 20N hanging off of a MT4. Oddly enough I use it frequently. Your 18N is more practical since this one won’t close down much past 3/8”.

 

[Jimsehr]

Another way to seperate chuck is to drill a cross hole in chuck arbor about 1/4
inch and put a pin in . Then use a wrench over arbor and use wrench as a lever to separate chuck. Does not hurt arbor at all.
i think the wedges are a pain to use.
Jeff check this out.

 

[wachuko]

My wife has learned not to roll her eyes. She has a saying: "if you haven't used it in the last two years, get rid of it." I am the opposite. I can't tell you how many times I've pulled out something to make a needed part from, or a tool to make it, that I've had (or even been left with by my father or grandfather) forever. She used to scoff at that, but has stopped now.

Speaking of eye-rolls, my kids (twins) are 48 years younger than me, and when I forget something or fumble around, they roll their eyes. When they do that, I respond, "This is what you have to look forward to." That ends the eye-roll fast!

Reminds me of this: