Height gage help

Pinresto

Pinresto

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May 23, 2014
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Hi,
I finally bought a height gage off of ebay. I think I got a decent deal. At least I hope I did. I tend to over analyze my tool purchases. Now that I have it I have some questions on its proper use. I haven't found any good resources on my style of height gage. The first question I have is about the fine adjust. I think I may be missing a parts. There is a threaded stud sticking out of what I think is the fine adjustment section. Is this supposed to have a nut or something on it? As you can see from the second pic when I rotate the wheel that section just separates from the bottom section. Is it supposed to be like this? Does anyone know where to find the manual for this? Its a spi 11-175-7. It came with a calibration certificate. I paid $70. Deal or dud?

image.jpg

image.jpg image.jpg
 
Ok, I lock the top locking screw and then adjust. I see now. Guess I should have played with it a bit longer before asking.
Its so perty. SPI has it listed on their site for 334.99. I would still like to find the manual and/or some educational info on proper use.
 
Pinresto said:
Ugh, how do I rotate pics?
Click to expand...
That is the end of the adjusting screw that the thumb wheel runs on, it is just the part of the threads that are not being used which have to be somewhere.

Move the jaws close to the work and clamp the fine adjustment slide thumb screw, rotate the thumb wheel until it touches the work just like a vernier caliper.

Swiss Precision Instruments make nice tools.

14t0zkh.jpg

14t0zkh.jpg
 
Pinresto said:
Ok, I lock the top locking screw and then adjust. I see now. Guess I should have played with it a bit longer before asking.
Its so perty. SPI has it listed on their site for 334.99. I would still like to find the manual and/or some educational info on proper use.
Click to expand...
You don't need a manual, proper use:

Put base on reference surface.
Put gauge block on reference surface and measure, set dial bezel to appropriate position.
Measure parts.
Done, it is that simple.

If you don't have marked gauge blocks just set it to the reference surface at 0, the advantage of using blocks is that you eliminate the error in the distance between 0 and the dimension that you wish to measure, for instance if measuring something near 2" then set 0 with a 2" gauge.

Good luck
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106ed8g.jpg
 
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It's common to put a DTI in there in place of the scribe. That way you can get a closer feel for when you are at your reference point, or see small variations along a hopefully parallel surface, etc. The scribe is best for just layout work, IMO.
 
Tony Wells said:
It's common to put a DTI in there in place of the scribe. That way you can get a closer feel for when you are at your reference point, or see small variations along a hopefully parallel surface, etc. The scribe is best for just layout work, IMO.
Click to expand...
This is what I would do, it eliminates the chance of jacking the base off of the plate, for someone new to it using the blade will give them a feel for the tool.
 
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